FORMULATIONS

MODERN COSMETICS FOR AMBITIOUS FORMULATORS

We understand the requirements and issues of cosmetic formulators. That’s why we spend a lot of time with application technology in our in-house laboratory. Here we investigate the incorporation and effect of raw materials in order to offer our customers the best possible support and appropriate recommendations.

We have provided a selected set of formulations for you to download here – enjoy!

FaceCare

MOISTURISING DAYCREAM

100.1.1.1

RICH SKIN FEEL. QUICKLY ABSORBING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Dicapo

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
3.00
A Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT
Phytic AcidAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Aristoflex® AVC
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/ VP Copolymer
Clariant AG
1.00
C Cosphaderm® E NGM
Lysolecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.50
Cegesoft® SH
Shorea Stenoptera Seed Butter
BASF SE
2.50
C Sunflower Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
C Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
C Softisan® 154
Hydrogenated Palm Oil
IOI Oleo GmbH
1.00
C Cosphaderm® AP
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
C Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
C Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
D Cosphaderm® Dicapo
Caprylyl GlycolGlyceryl CaprylateDipropylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
0.70

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Mix all ingredients together.
Phase B: Slowly add Cosphaderm® X 34 and Aristoflex® AVC under vigorous stirring to phase A.
Continue stirring for approx. 15 min at 500 rpm until complete dissolution. Then heat to 80 °C.
Phase C: Mix all ingredients and heat to 80 °C. Add phase C to phase A+B and
homogenise via vigorous stirring for approx. 10 min.
Phase D: Add Cosphaderm® Dicapo below 40 °C under vigorous stirring.
Adjust pH if necessary.

Specification
Appearance: Shiny, viscous emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

ANTI-WRINKLE EYE CREAM ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.49.1.1

MOISTURISING. NURTURING. ANTI-WRINKLE.

Preservation: Cosphagard® Pol

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Cosphagard® Pol
AquaSodium LevulinatePotassium Sorbate
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
B Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
B Sesame Oil
Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
4.00
B Evening Primrose Oil
Oenothera Biennis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
B Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
B Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
B Wheat Germ Oil
Triticum Vulgare Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B Imwitor 960 K
Glyceryl Stearate SE
IOI Oleo GmbH
3.00
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Lanette® O
Cetearyl Alcohol
BASF SE
0.50
B Imwitor® 372P
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
IOI Oleo GmbH
1.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A under stirring until Cosphaderm® X 34 is completely dissolved.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients of phase B. Heat both phases separately to 70 °C and add phase B
to phase A under stirring.
After stirring for 5 minutes homogenise the formulation and adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: White, shiny emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

SKIN SMOOTHIE ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.17.2.1

VITAMIN-RICH. VITALISING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® MultiMEG, Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
10.00
A Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
A Lanette® O
Cetearyl Alcohol
BASF SE
2.00
A Macadamia Nut Oil
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
A Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
A Beeswax
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
A Kahlwax 6290
Rhus Verniciflua Cera
Kahl GmbH & Co. KG
1.00
A Cosphaderm® E-1000 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
A Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Imwitor® 375
Glyceryl CitrateLactateLineolateOleate
IOI Oleo GmbH
2.50
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
B Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinSodium LevulinateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Juice from mixed fruits/vegetables
(e.g. cucumber, mango, lemon)
-
25.00
B Juice from mixed fruits/vegetables
(e.g. zucchini, papaya, ginger)
-
25.00
B Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
2.00
B Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
5.00
B Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT
Phytic AcidAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
Cosphaderm® MultiMEG
Glyceryl CaprylatePentylene GlycolMagnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
1.60

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A.
Phase B: Prepare Glycerin, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural and Cosphaderm® X 34 first.
Disperse Cosphaderm® X 34 with a stirrer. Peel 50 g fruit/vegetable A and 50 g fruit/vegetable B and crush it separately in a mixer. Filter the crushed fruits in separate beakers. Slowly add the filtered fruits/vegetables and the water to the mixture of Glycerin, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural and Cosphaderm® X 34 under stirring and stir until complete dissolution.
Add remaining ingredients. Heat phase A and B separately to 70 °C and add phase A to phase B under stirring.
Phase C: Add Cosphaderm® MultiMEG below 40 °C. Adjust the pH value to 5.5 ±
0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Light, shiny cream
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

GREEN DETOX MASK

100.2.2.1

MOISTURISING. DETOXIFYING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Dicapo, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Kaolin
Kaolin
-
10.00
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
8.00
A Plantacare® 818 UP
Coco Glucoside
BASF SE
3.00
A Spirulina Powder
Spirulina Platensis Powder
-
2.85
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
1.50
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40
A Titanium Dioxide
CI 77891
-
0.10
B Mango Butter
Mangifera Indica Seed Butter
-
6.00
B PolyAquol®-2W
Polyclyceryl-2-StearateGlyceryl StearateStearyl Alcohol
Innovacos
2.50
B Beeswax
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
B Ecorol® 16/98
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
2.00
B Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
0.10
C Kaolin
Kaolin
-
4.00
C Cosphaderm® EGCg ECONAT
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.05
D Cosphaderm® Dicapo
Caprylyl GlycolGlyceryl CaprylateDipropylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
0.70

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Mix all ingredients together.
Phase B: Mix phase B and heat phase A and B separately to 75 °C. Emulsify phase A+B and homogenise.
Phase C: Add phase C to phase A+B below 40 °C.
Phase D: Add Cosphaderm® Dicapo to the formulation and allow the mixture to cool down.
Adjust pH to 6.0 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Creamy, green mask
pH: 6.0 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

BLACK PEELING MASK ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.26.2.2

PURIFYING. DETOXIFYING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® CA natural, Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Kaolin
Kaolin
-
10.00
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
8.00
A Plantacare® 818 UP
Coco Glucoside
BASF SE
3.00
A Charcoal Powder
Charcoal Powder
-
2.85
A Cosphaderm® CA natural
Cinnamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
A Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinSodium LevulinateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.20
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40
B Mango Butter
Mangifera Indica Seed Butter
-
6.00
B PolyAquol®-2W
Polyclyceryl-2-StearateGlyceryl StearateStearyl Alcohol
Innovacos
2.50
B Beeswax
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
B Ecorol® 16/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
2.00
B Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
C Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
D Kaolin
Kaolin
-
5.00
D Lipo® AMS
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Meal
Vantage Speciality Ingredients, Inc.
1.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A except Cosphaderm® CA natural and
Cosphaderm® LA-T and stir for 10 min at 1500 rpm. Add Cosphaderm® CA natural and raise the pH to 11
to dissolve it completely.
Then add Cosphaderm® LA-T to lower the pH again.
Phase B: Prepare phase B and heat phase A and phase B separately to 75 °C.
Add phase B to phase A under thorough stirring with the propeller stirrer and homogenise the mixture.
Phase C: Add Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98 to phase A+B under stirring and below 40 °C.
Phase D: Prepare phase D and add it to the formulation. Let the mask cool down under moderate
stirring.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Black, creamy paste with small exfoliants
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

MOISTURISING MAGNOLIA CREAM GEL ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.13.1.1

ACTIVE AGAINST ACNE. NOURISHING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural, Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Imwitor® 375
Glyceryl CitrateLactateLineolateOleate
IOI Oleo GmbH
0.50
A Babassu Oil
Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
A Macadamia Nut Oil
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
A Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
A Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
A Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.05
B Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
23.25
C Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
3.00
C Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
4.00
C Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
5.00
C Cosphaderm® KG
Amorphophallus Konjac Root Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.80
Demin. Water
Aqua
-
54.90

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Prepare phase A and melt at 50 °C, then cool down to room temperature.
Phase B: Prepare phase B and stir for 10 min.
Phase C: Prepare all ingredients of phase C except water. Slowly add the water under stirring and stir
until complete dissolution.
Combine phase A and B and homogenise. Add phase A+B in slow steps to phase C under thorough
stirring with the propeller stirrer.
Adjust pH to 5.5 – 6.0 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Shiny, viscous emulsion
pH: 5.5 – 6.0 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

NATURAL LIP BALM ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.33.1.1

BALMY. PROTECTING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
31.70
A Wool Fat
Lanolin
Gustav Heess GmbH
20.00
A Beeswax
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
19.00
A Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
19.00
A Cocoa Butter
Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
10.00
A Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20

Manufacturing Process
Prepare phase A and heat to 70 °C until fully melted.
Stir until complete dissolution.
Fill into lip balm container and let it cool.

Specification
Appearance: Yellow balm
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

Cleansing

FACIAL CLEANSING LOTION ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

300.57.1.1

NURTURING. NATURALLY ACTIVE AGAINST ACNE. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® TOM, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
74.05
A Cosphagard® SA natural
Salicylic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
A Sodium Hydroxide Solution (10 %)
AquaAqua, Sodium Hydroxide
-
q.s.
A Citric Acid Solution (10 %)
AquaAqua, Citric Acid
-
q.s.
B Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
2.00
B Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
5.00
B Cosphaderm® X soft
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
C Coconut Oil
Coco Nucifera Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
4.50
C Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
C Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
4.00
C Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
C Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
C Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
C Imwitor 960 K
Glyceryl Stearate SE
IOI Oleo GmbH
4.00
D Aloe Vera Powder
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
-
0.25
D Cosphaderm® TOM
Pentylene GlycolGlyceryl CaprylateGlyceryl Undecylenate
Cosphatec GmbH
1.60

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine water and Cosphagard® SA natural and raise the pH value to 10 – 11. Stir until complete
dissolution. Afterwards lower the pH to approximately 6.
Phase B: Combine all of the ingredients and stir with a stirring rod until the powder is moistened.
Add phase A to phase B while stirring at medium speed to avoid air bubbles. If everything is dissolved
heat the mixture to 70 °C.
Phase C: Add all ingredients of phase C and heat to 70 °C.
Add phase C to A+B and homogenise for 3 – 5 minutes at 10,000 rpm. Then stir with propeller stirrer until
the emulsion is cooled down to <40 °C.
Phase D: Add aloe vera powder and Cosphaderm® TOM to the emulsion and stir until completely cooled
down to room temperature. Adjust pH to 6.0 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Light beige emulsion
pH: 6.0 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

Special Care

BEARD BALM ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

600.34.1.1

NOURISHING. CONDITIONING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Oil protection: Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO, Cosphaderm® GeMix

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
36.30
A Mango Butter
Mangifera Indica Seed Butter
-
23.00
A Wool Fat
Lanolin
Gustav Heess GmbH
8.00
A Apricot Kernel Oil
Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
10.30
A Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
8.00
A Beeswax
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
7.00
A Cocoa Butter
Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
6.00
A Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Cosphaderm® GeMix
Glyceryl CaprylateGlyceryl Undecylenate
Cosphatec GmbH
1.20

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Prepare phase A and heat to 70 °C until fully melted. Stir until complete dissolution.
Pour into container and let it cool down.

Specification
Appearance: Yellow balm
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

CALMING BABY CREAM ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

NATURALLY MILD. SOOTHING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® CA natural, Cosphaderm® GMCY

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
3.00
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
A Cosphaderm® CA natural
Cinnamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate high
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Sodium Hydroxide Solution (10 %)
AquaAqua, Sodium Hydroxide
-
q.s.
B Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
B Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
B Argan Oil
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B PolyAquol®-2W
Polyclyceryl-2-StearateGlyceryl StearateStearyl Alcohol
Innovacos
2.50
B Ecorol® 16/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
1.00
B Beeswax
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
B Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Cosphaderm® GMCY
Glyceryl Caprylate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
C Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinSodium LevulinateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
C Citric Acid Solution (10 %)
AquaAqua, Citric Acid
-
q.s

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and raise the pH to 11 under stirring to dissolve
Cosphaderm® CA natural. Then heat phase A to 80 °C.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients and heat to 80 °C. Add then phase B to phase A under strong
stirring.
Add phase C to the finished formulation. Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: White cream
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)