FORMULIERUNGEN

MODERNE KOSMETIK FÜR ANSPRUCHSVOLLE ENTWICKLER

Wir verstehen die Anforderungen und Fragestellungen von Kosmetik-Entwicklern. Darum verbringen wir viel Zeit mit Anwendungstechnik in unserem In-House Labor. Hier untersuchen wir die Einarbeitung und Wirkung von Rohstoffen, um unseren Kunden den bestmöglichen Support und passende Empfehlungen bieten zu können.

Ein ausgewähltes Set an Formulierungen haben wir hier zum Download bereitgestellt – viel Spaß damit!

FaceCare

ELASTIC JELLY MASK ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.20.1.1

MOISTURISING. REFRESHING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
4.00
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.60
A Cosphaderm® KG
Amorphophallus Konjak Root Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.60
A Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
5.00
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
59.80
B Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
2.50
B Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
5.00
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
22.50

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Mix all ingredients except water, then add water and stir until everything is completely
dissolved.
Phase B: Mix all ingredients and homogenise on high-speed for 5 minutes.
Add phase B to A slowly while gently stirring for 10 minutes.
Adjust the pH to 5.45 – 5.55.
Heat the mixture to 90 – 100 °C and keep this temperature for 2 – 3 minutes (Warning: Lecithins are heat
sensitive. Therefore, the process of heating should be kept to a minimum!).
Pour the hot mixture into a suitable mould as fast as possible and let it cool down.

Specification
Appearance: White to off-white gel
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven

RICH MOISTURISER ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.42.2.1

NOURISHING. HYDRATING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® CA natural, Cosphaderm® GeMix

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Demin. Water
-
ad 100
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
5.00
A Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT
Phytic AcidAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Cosphaderm® CA natural
Cinnamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
C Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
C Argan Oil
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
C Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
C Imwitor® 372P
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
IOI Oleo GmbH
2.00
D Cosphaderm® GeMix
Glyceryl CaprylateGlyceryl Undecylenate
Cosphatec GmbH
1.20

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A under stirring. Stir until Cosphaderm® X 34 is completely
dissolved. Raise the pH to 11 to dissolve Cosphaderm® CA natural.
Phase B: Add Cosphaderm® SF-75H to phase A under stirring and let it soak for 10 minutes. Then heat
phase A+B to 80 °C.
Phase C: Combine all ingredients of phase C and heat to 80 °C. Add then phase C to phase A+B under
strong stirring and homogenise the formulation.
Phase D: Add Cosphaderm® GeMix below 40 °C.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: White cream
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

URBAN ANTI-POLLUTION SKIN ELIXIR

100.18.2.1

ANTI-POLLUTION. HIGH SPREADABILITY. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
34.30
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
10.00
A Cosphaderm® X soft
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Cosphaderm® Leo
Dipropylene GlycolEthylhexylglycerinCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
2.70
B Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
4.00
B Babassu Oil
Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
4.00
B Apricot Kernel Oil
Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
4.00
B Sesame Oil
Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
B Evening Primrose Oil
Oenothera Biennis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
B Rosehip Seed Oil
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
B Grape Seed Oil
Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Cosphaderm® E-1000 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Ecorol® 16/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
1.00
C Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
C Demin. Water
Aqua
-
30.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Prepare phase A and stir at 2000 rpm until complete dissolution.
Phase B: Prepare phase B and heat to 50 °C until everything is melted. Let the mixture cool down to
room temperature.
Phase C: Prepare phase C and stir for 10 min at 800 rpm.
Add phase C to phase B and stir at 2000 rpm to emulsify both phases.
Add phase A to phase B+C and homogenise for 3 minutes.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: White, shiny emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

MOISTURISING MAGNOLIA CREAM GEL ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.13.1.1

ACTIVE AGAINST ACNE. NOURISHING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural, Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Imwitor® 375
Glyceryl CitrateLactateLineolateOleate
IOI Oleo GmbH
0.50
A Babassu Oil
Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
A Macadamia Nut Oil
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
A Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
A Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
A Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.05
B Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
23.25
C Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
3.00
C Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
4.00
C Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
5.00
C Cosphaderm® KG
Amorphophallus Konjac Root Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.80
Demin. Water
Aqua
-
54.90

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Prepare phase A and melt at 50 °C, then cool down to room temperature.
Phase B: Prepare phase B and stir for 10 min.
Phase C: Prepare all ingredients of phase C except water. Slowly add the water under stirring and stir
until complete dissolution.
Combine phase A and B and homogenise. Add phase A+B in slow steps to phase C under thorough
stirring with the propeller stirrer.
Adjust pH to 5.5 – 6.0 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Shiny, viscous emulsion
pH: 5.5 – 6.0 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

VITALISING SKIN GEL ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.28.2.1

QUICKLY ABSORBING. RICH SKIN FEEL. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® Sodium pAS natural

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
4.00
A Cosphaderm® X soft
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Demin. Water
Aqua
Cremer GmbH
59.70
A Cosphaderm® pAS natural
Sodium Anisate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40
B Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinSodium LevulinateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.20
C Demin. Water
Aqua
-
22.50
C Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
3.50
C Sunflower Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
5.00
C Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Prepare phase A and stir until everything is completely dissolved.
Phase B: Add very slowly Cosphaderm® LA-T to phase A under stirring.
Phase C: Prepare phase C and homogenise for 5 minutes with high performance disperser
(stator/rotor) at max. speed.
Add phase C to phase A+B in small steps under stirring.
Adjust pH value to 5.5 ± 0.5.

Specification
Appearance: Shiny emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

Cleansing

PURIFYING CLEANSING LOTION

300.32.3.1

MAKE-UP REMOVING. PURIFYING. CLEANSING.

Preservation: Cosphagard® Pol, Cosphaderm® GMCY

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
10.00
A Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
12.00
A Lanette® O
Cetearyl Alcohol
BASF SE
5.00
A Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
A Cosphaderm® GMCY
Glyceryl Caprylate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
B Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
2.00
B Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT
Phytic AcidAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Cosphagard® Pol
AquaSodium LevulinatePotassium Sorbate
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
C D-Panthenol 75 %
PanthenolAqua
-
1.00
C Ronacare® Allantoin
Allantoin
Merck KGaA
0.50

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Prepare phase A and heat to 65 °C.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients except Cosphaderm® X 34. Slowly add Cosphaderm® X 34 to phase B
under stirring.
Stir until complete dissolution. Then heat phase A and phase B separately to 65 °C. Add phase B to
phase A to emulsify both phases. Stir until the formulation is cooled down.
Phase C: Add phase C below 30 °C and stir until everything is mixed.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05 if necessary.

Specification
Appearance: White gel
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

Special Care

CALMING BABY CREAM ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

NATURALLY MILD. SOOTHING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® CA natural, Cosphaderm® GMCY

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
3.00
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
A Cosphaderm® CA natural
Cinnamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate high
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Sodium Hydroxide Solution (10 %)
AquaSodium Hydroxide
-
q.s.
B Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
B Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
B Argan Oil
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B PolyAquol®-2W
Polyclyceryl-2-StearateGlyceryl StearateStearyl Alcohol
Innovacos
2.50
B Ecorol® 16/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
1.00
B Beeswax
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
B Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Cosphaderm® GMCY
Glyceryl Caprylate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
C Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinSodium LevulinateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
C Citric Acid Solution (10 %)
AquaCitric Acid
-
q.s

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and raise the pH to 11 under stirring to dissolve
Cosphaderm® CA natural. Then heat phase A to 80 °C.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients and heat to 80 °C. Add then phase B to phase A under strong
stirring.
Add phase C to the finished formulation. Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: White cream
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)