FORMULIERUNGEN

MODERNE KOSMETIK FÜR ANSPRUCHSVOLLE ENTWICKLER

Wir verstehen die Anforderungen und Fragestellungen von Kosmetik-Entwicklern. Darum verbringen wir viel Zeit mit Anwendungstechnik in unserem In-House Labor. Hier untersuchen wir die Einarbeitung und Wirkung von Rohstoffen, um unseren Kunden den bestmöglichen Support und passende Empfehlungen bieten zu können.

Ein ausgewähltes Set an Formulierungen haben wir hier zum Download bereitgestellt – viel Spaß damit!

FaceCare

RICH NIGHTCREAM

100.6.1.1

ANTI-POLLUTION. NOURISHING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Hexiol, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural, Cosphaderm® Octiol

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Cosphaderm® Hexiol
1,2-Hexanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
A Cosphaderm® Octiol
Glyceryl Caprylate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
C Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
D Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
8.00
D Sesame Oil
Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
5.00
D Avocado Oil
Persea Gratissima Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
D Rosehip Seed Oil
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
D Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.50
D Cocoa Butter
Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.50
D Lamecreme
Glyceryl StearateGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
-
4.00
D Ecorol® 16/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
1.50
D Cosphaderm® E-1000Ac NON GMO
Tocopherol AcetateHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
D Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
E D-Panthenol 75 %
PanthenolAqua
-
1.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Mix phase A and stir until everything is completely dissolved.
Phase B: Add phase B to phase A and stir until dispersed.
Phase C: Slowly add phase C to phase A+B and stir until complete dissolution.
Phase D: Mix all ingredients of phase D and heat phase A+B+C and D separately to 80 °C.
Add phase D slowly to phase A+B+C while stirring.
Phase E: Add Panthenol to the finished formulation (below 40 °C).
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Shiny, viscous emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

URBAN ANTI-POLLUTION SKIN ELIXIR

100.18.2.1

ANTI-POLLUTION. HIGH SPREADABILITY. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
34.30
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
10.00
A Cosphaderm® X soft
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Cosphaderm® Leo
Dipropylene GlycolEthylhexylglycerinCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
2.70
B Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
4.00
B Babassu Oil
Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
4.00
B Apricot Kernel Oil
Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
4.00
B Sesame Oil
Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
B Evening Primrose Oil
Oenothera Biennis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
B Rosehip Seed Oil
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
B Grape Seed Oil
Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Cosphaderm® E-1000 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Ecorol® 16/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
1.00
C Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
C Demin. Water
Aqua
-
30.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Prepare phase A and stir at 2000 rpm until complete dissolution.
Phase B: Prepare phase B and heat to 50 °C until everything is melted. Let the mixture cool down to
room temperature.
Phase C: Prepare phase C and stir for 10 min at 800 rpm.
Add phase C to phase B and stir at 2000 rpm to emulsify both phases.
Add phase A to phase B+C and homogenise for 3 minutes.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: White, shiny emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

BOOSTING GLOW MIST

100.35.1.1

REFRESHING. SKIN BOOSTING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural, Cosphaderm® Hexiol

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Aloe Vera 0.05 %
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
-
76.10
A RonaCare® Niacinamide
Niacinamide
Merck KGaA
3.50
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A D-Panthenol 75 %
PanthenolAqua
-
1.00
A Cosphaderm® Hexiol
1,2-Hexanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
1.50
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
5.00
A Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT
Phytic AcidAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Olive Oil
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.50
B Argan Oil
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
B Avocado Oil
Persea Gratissima Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B Evening Primrose Oil
Oenothera Biennis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.50
B Rosehip Seed Oil
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
B Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.50
B Macadamia Nut Oil
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
0.50
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and stir until complete dissolution.
Adjust the pH value to 5.5 ± 0.05.
Phase B: Prepare phase B in a separate beaker.
Add phase B to phase A without stirring and pour mixture into spray flask.

Specification
Appearance: Two-phase system with oil phase on top of translucent water phase
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven

BEAUTY OIL ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.19.1.1

SILKY SKIN FEEL. NOURISHING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Oil protection: Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
40.00
A Rosehip Seed Oil
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
A Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
45.00
A Evening Primrose Oil
Oenothera Biennis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.60
A Pomegranate Seed Oil
Punica Granatum Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
4.00
A Grape Seed Oil
Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
5.00
A Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A
-
q.s.

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Mix all ingredients together and heat to 50 °C until pomegranate seed oil is melted.
Stir phase A until complete dissolution.

Specification
Appearance: Yellow liquid
Stability: Microbiological stability proven

Cleansing

SOOTHING 2IN1 MAKE-UP REMOVER

300.11.1.1

SOOTHING. MAKE-UP REMOVING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Hexiol, Cosphaderm® Pentiol GL

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
5.00
A Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT
Phytic AcidAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Plantacare® 2000 UP
Decyl Glucoside
BASF SE
0.30
B Cosphaderm® Hexiol
1,2-Hexanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® CHA
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.15
B Cosphaderm® Pentiol GL
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
C Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
20.00
C Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
C Oil-soluble Colour
-
q.s
C Perfume
Parfum
-
q.s.

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Mix all ingredients of phase A under slow stirring.
Phase B: Mix all ingredients of phase B until everything is completely dissolved and add B to phase A.
Adjust the pH of phase A+B to 5.5 ± 0.05.
Phase C: Mix all ingredients of phase C and add the mixture to phase A+B without stirring.

Specification
Appearance: Two-phase system with coloured oil phase on top of translucent water phase
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven

Bodycare

MOISTURISING BODY YOGHURT

200.9.1.1

HIGH SPREADABILITY. LIGHT SKIN FEEL. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Dicapo

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
13.00
A Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Imwitor® 375
Glyceryl CitrateLactateLineolateOleate
IOI Oleo GmbH
0.50
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
3.00
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
B Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
B Carbopol® Ultrez-21
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Lubrizol
0.30
B Cosphaderm® Dicapo
Caprylyl GlycolGlyceryl CaprylateDipropylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
0.70

Manufacturing Process
This formulation can be prepared at room temperature.
Phase A: Mix all ingredients of phase A under stirring.
Phase B: Mix all ingredients of phase B under stirring. Add phase A into phase B and homogenise until
everything is dissolved. Adjust the pH to 6.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: White cream
pH: 6.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

RICH & SOFT HANDCREAM ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

200.4.1.2

REGENERATING. SOFT SKIN FEEL. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® MultiMEG

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
2.00
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.25
C Lamecreme
Glyceryl StearateGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
-
2.50
C Montanov™ 68
Cetearyl AlcoholCetearyl Glycoside
SEPPIC, S.A.
2.00
C Tegomuls
Hydrogenated Palm Glyceride
-
0.50
C Ecorol® 18/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
1.00
C Beeswax
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
0.50
C Carnauba Wax
Cera Carnauba
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
C Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
C Sunflower Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
C Peach Kernel Oil
Prunus Persica Kernel Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.50
C Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
C Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
C Cosphaderm® AP
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
C Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
D Cosphaderm® MultiMEG
Glyceryl CaprylatePentylene GlycolMagnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
1.20

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Mix all ingredients together.
Phase B: Slowly add Cosphaderm® X 34 to phase A under strong stirring. Continue stirring for approx.
15 min at 500 rpm until complete dissolution. Then heat to 80 °C.
Phase C: Mix all ingredients together and heat to 80 °C.
Phase C: Add phase C to phase A+B and homogenise for approx. 1 min using Ultra-Turrax. Cool down
under medium stirring.
Phase D: Add Cosphaderm® MultiMEG below 40 °C under vigorous stirring.
Adjust pH if necessary.

Specification
Appearance: White, shiny, viscous emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

Special Care

FRESH & COOL AFTERSHAVE

600.37.1.1

COOLING. SOOTHING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® MultiMEG, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
3.00
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Ronacare® Allantoin
Allantoin
Merck KGaA
0.20
A Aristoflex® AVC
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/ VP Copolymer
Clariant AG
0.50
B Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
3.50
B Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
4.00
B Olive Oil
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
B Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B Avocado Oil
Persea Gratissima Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B Sesame Oil
Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B Carotene Oil
Glycine Soja (A)beta-carotene
-
0.05
B Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B Cocoa Butter
Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
0.20
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
B Lamecreme
Glyceryl StearateGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
-
4.00
B Camphor
Camphora RacemicaCamphora Synthetica
-
0.10
C Ethanol
Alcohol
Carl Roth GmbH & Co. KG
0.60
C Menthol
Menthol
FREY&LAU GmbH
0.70
D Cosphaderm® MultiMEG
Glyceryl CaprylatePentylene GlycolMagnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
1.60

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Add Allantoin to water and heat to 40 °C. Stir until complete dissolution. Add Glycerin and
Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural. While stirring add Cosphaderm® X 34. Stir until complete
dissolution. Then add Aristoflex® AVC and stir until complete dissolution.
Phase B: Prepare phase B and separately heat phase A and phase B to 80 °C.
Add phase B to phase A while stirring.
Phase C+D: Add phase C and D below 40 °C.
Adjust pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Yellowish cream
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

PROTECTIVE BABY CREAM ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

500.24.2.3

SKIN PROTECTING. SENSITIVE. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Sodium LAAS

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Babassu Oil
Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
4.00
A Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond)
Gustav Heess GmbH
12.00
A Sesame Oil
Sesamum Indicum (Sesame)
Gustav Heess GmbH
6.00
A Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
10.00
A Organic Sheabutter
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
15.00
Beeswax
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
9.00
A Lanolin
Lanolin
-
19.00
A Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
B Cosphaderm® Sodium LAAS
Sodium LevulinateSodium Anisate
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
23.50

Manufacturing Process
Combine all ingredients of phase A and B in separate beakers. Adjust the pH of the water to
5.5 ± 0.05. Then, heat both phases separately to 70 °C. Add slowly the water to phase A under
soft stirring.

Specification
Appearance: Yellowish cream
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)