FORMULIERUNGEN

MODERNE KOSMETIK FÜR ANSPRUCHSVOLLE ENTWICKLER

Wir verstehen die Anforderungen und Fragestellungen von Kosmetik-Entwicklern. Darum verbringen wir viel Zeit mit Anwendungstechnik in unserem In-House Labor. Hier untersuchen wir die Einarbeitung und Wirkung von Rohstoffen, um unseren Kunden den bestmöglichen Support und passende Empfehlungen bieten zu können.

Ein ausgewähltes Set an Formulierungen haben wir hier zum Download bereitgestellt – viel Spaß damit!

FaceCare

BLACK PEELING MASK ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.26.2.2

PURIFYING. DETOXIFYING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® CA natural, Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Kaolin
Kaolin
-
10.00
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
8.00
A Plantacare® 818 UP
Coco Glucoside
BASF SE
3.00
A Charcoal Powder
Charcoal Powder
-
2.85
A Cosphaderm® CA natural
Cinnamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
A Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinSodium LevulinateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.20
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40
B Mango Butter
Mangifera Indica Seed Butter
-
6.00
B PolyAquol®-2W
Polyclyceryl-2-StearateGlyceryl StearateStearyl Alcohol
Innovacos
2.50
B Beeswax
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
B Ecorol® 16/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
2.00
B Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
C Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
D Kaolin
Kaolin
-
5.00
D Lipo® AMS
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Meal
Vantage Speciality Ingredients, Inc.
1.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A except Cosphaderm® CA natural and
Cosphaderm® LA-T and stir for 10 min at 1500 rpm. Add Cosphaderm® CA natural and raise the pH to 11
to dissolve it completely.
Then add Cosphaderm® LA-T to lower the pH again.
Phase B: Prepare phase B and heat phase A and phase B separately to 75 °C.
Add phase B to phase A under thorough stirring with the propeller stirrer and homogenise the mixture.
Phase C: Add Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98 to phase A+B under stirring and below 40 °C.
Phase D: Prepare phase D and add it to the formulation. Let the mask cool down under moderate
stirring.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Black, creamy paste with small exfoliants
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

MOISTURISING MAGNOLIA CREAM GEL ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.13.1.1

ACTIVE AGAINST ACNE. NOURISHING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural, Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Imwitor® 375
Glyceryl CitrateLactateLineolateOleate
IOI Oleo GmbH
0.50
A Babassu Oil
Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
A Macadamia Nut Oil
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
A Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
A Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
A Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.05
B Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
23.25
C Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
3.00
C Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
4.00
C Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
5.00
C Cosphaderm® KG
Amorphophallus Konjac Root Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.80
Demin. Water
Aqua
-
54.90

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Prepare phase A and melt at 50 °C, then cool down to room temperature.
Phase B: Prepare phase B and stir for 10 min.
Phase C: Prepare all ingredients of phase C except water. Slowly add the water under stirring and stir
until complete dissolution.
Combine phase A and B and homogenise. Add phase A+B in slow steps to phase C under thorough
stirring with the propeller stirrer.
Adjust pH to 5.5 – 6.0 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Shiny, viscous emulsion
pH: 5.5 – 6.0 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

BEAUTY OIL ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.19.1.1

SILKY SKIN FEEL. NOURISHING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Oil protection: Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
40.00
A Rosehip Seed Oil
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
A Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
45.00
A Evening Primrose Oil
Oenothera Biennis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.60
A Pomegranate Seed Oil
Punica Granatum Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
4.00
A Grape Seed Oil
Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
5.00
A Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A
-
q.s.

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Mix all ingredients together and heat to 50 °C until pomegranate seed oil is melted.
Stir phase A until complete dissolution.

Specification
Appearance: Yellow liquid
Stability: Microbiological stability proven

Cleansing

GENTLE SKIN PERFECTING SCRUB ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

300.15.3.1

MILD. NATURALLY ACTIVE AGAINST ACNE. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® Sodium pAS natural, Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
4.00
A Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT
Phytic AcidAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Cosphaderm® Sodium pAS natural
Sodium Anisate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinSodium LevulinateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
A Cosphagard® SA natural
Salicylic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
A Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
C Perlastan® SC
Disodium/Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate
Schill + Seilacher Struktol GmbH
10.30
C Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.05
C Plantacare® 1200 UP
Lauryl Glucoside
BASF SE
6.60
D WorléeBeads
Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil
Worlée-Chemie GmbH
1.50

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A. Raise the pH to 11 to dissolve Cosphagard® SA natural. When everything is dissolved, lower the pH back to 6-8 again.
Phase B: Add Cosphaderm® X 34 to phase A and stir with the propeller stirrer.
Phase C: Combine all ingredients of phase C separately. Add then phase C to phase A+B.
Phase D: Add the last phase to the finished formulation. Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Translucent gel with small peeling beads
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

FRESH MAGNOLIA TOOTHPASTE

300.23.1.1

ACTIVE AGAINST CARIES. FLUORIDE-FREE. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98, Cosphaderm® TOM, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Cosphaderm® TOM
Pentylene GlycolGlyceryl CaprylateGlyceryl Undecylenate
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
B Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
15.00
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
B Xylitol
Xylitol
-
2.00
C Carbopol® Ultrez-21
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Lubrizol
0.10
C Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
D Kaolin
Kaolin
-
10.00
D Calcium Carbonate
Calcium Carbonate
Carl Roth GmbH & Co. KG
30.00
E Ethanol
Alcohol
Carl Roth GmbH & Co. KG
1.00
E Menthol
Menthol
FREY&LAU GmbH
0.50
F Perlastan® SC
Sodium/Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate
Schill + Seilacher Struktol GmbH
2.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine ingredients and stir until Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98 is dissolved.
Phase B: Prepare phase B and add to phase A under stirring. Heat the mixture to 50 °C.
Phase C: Slowly add phase C into A+B and stir until complete dissolution.
Phase D: Prepare phase D and add it to phase A+B+C under stirring.
Phase E: Add phase E to the mixture and stir for 10 minutes at 1000 rpm.
Phase F: Prepare phase F and add it to the finished formulation. Adjust the pH to 7.0 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Milky-white paste
pH: 7.0 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

CONDITIONING SHAMPOO ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

400.3.1.1

CONDITIONING. SLES-FREE. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® TOM, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural, Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
3.00
A Cosphaderm® TOM
Pentylene GlycolGlyceryl CaprylateGlyceryl Undecylenate
Cosphatec GmbH
1.80
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Sulfopon® 1216 G
Sodium Coco Sulfate
BASF SE
6.50
B Plantacare® 1200 UP
Lauryl Glucoside
BASF SE
7.36
B Dehyton® K
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
BASF SE
4.88
B Plantacare® 818 UP
Coco Glucoside
BASF SE
2.50
B Cosphaderm® E NGM
Lysolecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.05

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Mix all ingredients of phase A and stir until everything is dissolved.
Phase B: Mix phase B and heat phase A and B separately to 50 °C.
Add phase A to phase B under soft stirring. Try to avoid air bubbles.
Adjust the pH to 5.0 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Yellowish gel
pH: 5.0 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

Bodycare

WARMING FOOTCREAM

200.36.1.1

WARMING. BOOSTING BLOOD CIRCULATION. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural, Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98, Cosphaderm® GMCY

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
3.00
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
A Urea
Urea
-
10.00
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
C Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
8.00
C Lanette® O
Cetearyl Alcohol
BASF SE
3.00
C Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
8.00
C Carnauba Wax
Cera Carnauba
Gustav Heess GmbH
5.00
C Beeswax
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
8.00
C Cosphaderm® VBE
Vanillyl Butyl Ether
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
C Cosphaderm® GMCY
Glyceryl Caprylate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.80
C Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
C Lamecreme
Glyceryl StearateGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
-
5.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A.
Phase B: Slowly add Cosphaderm® X 34 to phase A under stirring and stir until complete dissolution.
Phase C: Prepare phase C. Heat phase A+B and phase C separately to 75 °C. Then add phase C to
phase A+B while stirring and let the formulation cool down.
Adjust pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Shiny, white cream
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)