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FORMULATIONS

MODERN COSMETICS FOR AMBITIOUS FORMULATORS

We understand the requirements and issues of cosmetics formulators. That's why we spend a lot of time on application technology in our in-house laboratory. Here we analyse the incorporation and effect of raw materials in order to offer our customers the best possible support and suitable recommendations.

We have provided a selected set of formulations for download here - enjoy!

FaceCare

CALM & CARE FLUID 100.134.2.1

ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

FAST ABSORBING. HYDRATING. REGENERATING.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Hexiol natural, Cosphaderm® Octiol natural

PHASE INGREDIENT COSMOS INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water Aqua - 76.60
A Glycerin Glycerin - 5.00
A Cosphaderm® Octiol natural Caprylyl Glycol Cosphatec GmbH 0.50
A Cosphaderm® Hexiol natural 1,2-Hexanediol Cosphatec GmbH 1.00
A Cosphaderm® X 34 Xanthan Gum Cosphatec GmbH 0.50
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate Sodium Hyaluronate Cosphatec GmbH 0.10
B Montanov™ 202 Arachidyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Arachidyl Glucoside SEPPIC, S.A. 5.00
B Bisabolol Bisabolol - 0.30
B Shea Butter refined Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Gustav Heess GmbH 3.00
B MCT Oil Typ V Ph. Eur. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Gustav Heess GmbH 7.00
C Panthenol Panthenol Aqua - 1.00

Manufacturing Process

Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and stir until everything is completely dissolved. Heat to 70-75 °C.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients and heat to 75 °C. Add then phase B to phase A under strong stirring and homogenise.
Phase C: Add phase C below 40 °C.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification

Appearance: White viscous fluid
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: No separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min), stable for 3 months at room temperature and 40 °C
Microbiological stability: proven

HairCare

INTENSE REPAIR HAIR MASK 400.85.1.1

ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

CONDITIONING. SMOOTHING. GLOSSY.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Octiol natural, Cosphaderm® Sodium LAAS

PHASE INGREDIENT COSMOS INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water Aqua - 75.90
A Glycerin Glycerin - 5.00
A Betaine Betaine - 2.00
A Cosphaderm® Sodium LAAS Sodium Levulinate Sodium Anisate Cosphatec GmbH 0.70
A Cosphaderm® Octiol natural Caprylyl Glycol Cosphatec GmbH 0.50
A Cosphaderm® X 34 Xanthan Gum Cosphatec GmbH 0.20
B Cosphaderm® SF-75H Hydrogenated Lecithin Cosphatec GmbH 1.00
C Lanette®N Cetearyl Alcohol Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate BASF SE 2.50
C Lanette® O Cetearyl Alcohol BASF SE 2.00
C Shea Butter refined Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Gustav Heess GmbH 2.00
C Coconut Oil Coco Nucifera Oil Gustav Heess GmbH 3.00
C Argan Oil Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil Gustav Heess GmbH 2.00
C Cosphaderm® Feel Triheptanoin Cosphatec GmbH 1.50
C Broccoli Seed Oil Brassica Oleracea Seed Oil - 1.00
C SOFTISAN® conditionHAIR PCA Glyceryl Oleate IOI Oleo GmbH 0.50
C Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO Tocopherol Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Cosphatec GmbH 0.20

Manufacturing Process

Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and stir until everything is completely dissolved.
Phase B: Add Cosphaderm® SF-75H to phase A and let it soak for 10-20 minutes. Then heat phase A+B to 70 °C.
Phase C: Combine all ingredients of phase C and heat to 70 °C. Add then phase C to phase A+B under
strong stirring and homogenise the formulation.
Adjust the pH to 5.0 ± 0.05.

Specification

Appearance: Light beige gel cream
pH: 5.0 ± 0.05
Stability: No separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min), stable for 3 months at room temperature and 40 °C
Microbiological stability: proven

NATURAL CONDITIONER 400.72.1.1

ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

LIGHT TEXTURE. SOFTENING. ANTI-FRIZZ.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Octiol natural, Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98

PHASE INGREDIENT COSMOS INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water Aqua - 86.95
A Hydrolyzed Oat Protein Hydrolyzed Oat Protein - 0.50
A Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT Phytic Acid Aqua Cosphatec GmbH 0.15
B Lanette®N Cetearyl Alcohol Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate BASF SE 5.00
B Lanette® O Cetearyl Alcohol BASF SE 2.00
B MCT Oil Typ V Ph. Eur. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Gustav Heess GmbH 2.00
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO Tocopherol Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Cosphatec GmbH 0.20
C Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural Propanediol Cosphatec GmbH 1.00
C Cosphaderm® Octiol natural Caprylyl Glycol Cosphatec GmbH 0.50
C Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98 Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract Cosphatec GmbH 0.20

Manufacturing Process

Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and stir until everything is completely dissolved.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients of phase B.
Heat both phases separately to 70-75 °C and add phase B to A while homogenising.
Phase C: Dissolve Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98 in Cosphaderm® Diols. Add phase C to phase A/B under stirring.
Adjust the pH to 4.0 ± 0.05.

Specification

Appearance: Beige, viscous gel cream
pH: 4.0 ± 0.05
Stability: No separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min), stable for 3 months at room temperature and 40 °C
Microbiological stability: proven

Cleansing

JELLY SOAP 300.22.1.2

CLEANSING. FOAMING. BOUNCY TEXTURE.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Hexiol, Cosphaderm® Octiol, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASE INGREDIENT COSMOS INCI SUPPLIER %
A Glycerin Glycerin - 5.00
A Cosphaderm® Hexiol 1,2-Hexanediol Cosphatec GmbH 2.00
A Cosphaderm® Octiol Caprylyl Glycol Cosphatec GmbH 0.50
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural Propanediol Cosphatec GmbH 1.00
A Cosphaderm® X 34 Xanthan Gum Cosphatec GmbH 0.50
A Cosphaderm® KG Amorphophallus Konjac Root Extract Cosphatec GmbH 0.50
B Demin. Water Aqua - 83.50
C Plantacare® 810 UP Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside BASF SE 2.00
C Texapon® NSO UP Sodium Laureth Sulfate BASF SE 5.00

Manufacturing Process

Phase A: Prepare phase A and stir until dispersed.
Phase B: Slowly add the water to phase A under stirring and stir until complete dissolution.
If wanted, add heat-proof colour.
Phase C: Prepare phase C, adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05 and set aside.
Heat phase A+B to its boiling point and keep this temperature for 2 – 3 min.
Add phase C to the hot phase A+B. Continue stirring until everything is combined.
Quickly pour the warm mixture into moulds and let it cool down.

Specification

Appearance: Clear, solid, elastic jelly
pH: 5.5 – 6.5
Stability: stable for 3 months at room temperature and 40 °C
Microbiological stability: proven

Bodycare

SOOTHING BODY LOTION 200.126.1.1

NEW ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

VELVET. REGENERATING. FAST-ABSORBING.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Sodium LAAS, Cosphaderm® Octiol natural

PHASE INGREDIENT COSMOS INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water Aqua - 77.70
A Glycerin Glycerin - 2.00
A Cosphaderm® Sodium LAAS Sodium Levulinate Sodium Anisate Cosphatec GmbH 1.00
A Cosphaderm® Octiol natural Caprylyl Glycol Cosphatec GmbH 0.30
A Cosphaderm® X soft Xanthan Gum Cosphatec GmbH 0.50
B Cosphaderm® SF-75H Hydrogenated Lecithin Cosphatec GmbH 0.50
C Cosphaderm® GS Connect Glyceryl Stearate Citrate Cosphatec GmbH 2.50
C Lanette® 16 Cetyl Alcohol BASF SE 1.20
C Shea Butter refined Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Gustav Heess GmbH 3.00
C Jojoba Oil Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil Gustav Heess GmbH 3.00
C Cetiol® CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate BASF SE 2.00
C MCT Oil Typ V Ph. Eur. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Gustav Heess GmbH 4.00
C Squalane Squalane - 2.00
D Cosphaderm® Tocopharin Carnosic Acid Tocopherol Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Cosphatec GmbH 0.30

Manufacturing Process

Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and stir until everything is completely dissolved.
Phase B: Add phase B to the water phase while stirring. Then heat the water phase to 70-75 °C.
Phase C: Combine all ingredients of phase C and heat to 75°C.
Add phase C to the water phase while stirring. Add phase D to the emulsion and homogenise.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification

Appearance: white, slightly beige viscous lotion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: No separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min), stable for 3 months at room temperature and 40 °C
Microbiological stability: proven

DEODORANT ROLL-ON 200.131.1.1

NEW

PROTECTING. SMOOTHING. VEGAN.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural, Cosphaderm® Zinc Lactate natural, Cosphaderm® Octiol natural

PHASE INGREDIENT COSMOS INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water Aqua - 76.90
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural Propanediol Cosphatec GmbH 8.00
A Glycerin Glycerin - 3.00
A Cosphaderm® Zinc Lactate natural Zinc Lactate Cosphatec GmbH 0.40
A Natrosol® 250 HX Hydroxyethylcellulose - 0.50
B PolyAquol®-2W Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate Stearyl Alcohol Glyceryl Stearate Innovacos 2.50
B Cosphaderm® Octiol natural Caprylyl Glycol Cosphatec GmbH 0.40
B Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Oil Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Oil - 0.05
B Triethylcitrate Triethylcitrate - 2.25
B MCT Oil Typ V Ph. Eur. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Gustav Heess GmbH 6.00

Manufacturing Process

Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and stir until everything is completely dissolved.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients of phase B.
Heat both phases separately to 75 °C and add phase B to A while stirring very fast. Homogenise.
Adjust the pH to 5.0 ± 0.05.

Specification

Appearance: White viscous lotion
pH: 5.0 ± 0.05
Stability: No separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min), stable for 3 months at room temperature and 40 °C
Microbiological stability: proven

MenCare

NOURISHING SHAVING OIL 600.124.1.1

NEW ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

PRECISE SHAVING. MILD. GENTLE.

Oil protection: Cosphaderm® Tocopharin

PHASE INGREDIENT COSMOS INCI SUPPLIER %
A Softigen® Pura Olus Oil IOI Oleo GmbH 40.00
A MCT Oil Typ V Ph. Eur. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Gustav Heess GmbH 30.00
A Cosphaderm® Feel Triheptanoin Cosphatec GmbH 12.40
A Almond Oil Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil Gustav Heess GmbH 10.00
A Babassu Oil Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil Gustav Heess GmbH 5.00
A Argan Oil Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil Gustav Heess GmbH 2.00
A Cosphaderm® Octiol natural Caprylyl Glycol Cosphatec GmbH 0.30
A Cosphaderm® Tocopharin Carnosic Acid Tocopherol Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Cosphatec GmbH 0.30

Manufacturing Process

Combine all ingredients of phase A and melt until everything is homogeneous.

Specification

Appearance: Cloudy, thickened oil
Stability: Stable for 3 months at room temperature and 40 °C
Microbiological stability: proven (Water activity value less than 0.75)

REVITALISING DAY CREAM FOR MEN 600.79.1.1

ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

COOLING. HYDRATING. REFRESHING.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® pAS natural, Cosphaderm® Octiol natural, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASE INGREDIENT COSMOS INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water Aqua - 78.50
A Cosphaderm® pAS natural p-Anisic Acid Cosphatec GmbH 0.20
B Glycerin Glycerin - 3.00
B Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural Propanediol Cosphatec GmbH 2.50
B Cosphaderm® Octiol natural Caprylyl Glycol Cosphatec GmbH 0.50
B Cosphaderm® X 34 Xanthan Gum Cosphatec GmbH 0.40
C PolyAquol®-2W Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate Glyceryl Stearate Stearyl Alcohol Innovacos 3.50
C Lanette® O Cetearyl Alcohol BASF SE 1.50
C Babassu Oil Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil Gustav Heess GmbH 5.00
C Cosphaderm® Feel Triheptanoin Cosphatec GmbH 3.00
C Shea Butter refined Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Gustav Heess GmbH 1.00
C Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO Tocopherol Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Cosphatec GmbH 0.20
D Ethanol Alcohol Cosphatec GmbH 0.50
D Menthol Menthol - 0.20

Manufacturing Process

Phase A: Prepare phase A. Raise the pH to 10 to dissolve Cosphaderm® pAS natural and stir until everything is completely dissolved. Afterwards, adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05 by adding Citric Acid.
Phase B: Add all ingredients of phase B to phase A. Then heat phase A+B to 75 °C.
Phase C: Combine all ingredients and heat to 75 °C. Add then phase C to phase A+B under strong stirring and homogenise.
Phase D: Dissolve menthol in ethanol and add phase D below 40°C.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification

Appearance: White viscous emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: No separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min), stable for 3 months at room temperature and 40 °C
Microbiological stability: proven

Sun & Color Care

TIMELESS ICON LIP STAIN 700.140.2.1

NEW

LONG-LASTING COLOUR. WEIGHTLESS FEEL.
MOISTURISING.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Hexiol natural,
Cosphaderm® Octiol natural

PHASE INGREDIENT COSMOS INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water Aqua - 85.15
A Cosphaderm® Hexiol natural 1,2-Hexanediol Cosphatec GmbH 1.50
A Cosphaderm® Octiol natural Caprylyl Glycol Cosphatec GmbH 0.30
A Sorbitol Sorbitol - 2.00
B Glycerin Glycerin - 1.00
B Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural palm free Propanediol Cosphatec GmbH 3.00
B Cosphaderm® Butiol natural Butylene Glycol Cosphatec GmbH 5.00
B Cosphaderm® X 34 Xanthan Gum Cosphatec GmbH 0.40
B Pullulan Pullulan - 1.00
B Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate high Sodium Hyaluronate Cosphatec GmbH 0.10
B Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low Sodium Hyaluronate Cosphatec GmbH 0.05
C Unicert Red K7057_J CI 17200 SENSIENT BEAUTY 0.10
C FD&C Red 40 07700-C CI 16035 SENSIENT BEAUTY 0.35
C Unicert Red K7061-J CI 45380 SENSIENT BEAUTY 0.05

Manufacturing Process

Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A.
Phase B: Prepare phase B and slowly add to phase A under stirring. Continue stirring until everything is
completely dissolved.
Phase C: Add phase C and stir until everything is homogeneous.
Adjust pH value to 5.50 ± 0.05.

Specification

Appearance: Clear, red, low viscous solution
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: No separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min), stable for 3 months at room temperature
and 40 °C
Microbiological stability: proven

CREAMY BLUSH STICK 700.107.1.1

ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

SOFT TEXTURE. MATT FINISH. VEGAN.

Oil protection: Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO

PHASE INGREDIENT COSMOS INCI SUPPLIER %
A MCT Oil Typ V Ph. Eur. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Gustav Heess GmbH 27.20
A Cetiol® OE Dicaprylyl Ether BASF SE 15.00
A Kahlwax 6607L Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera Kahl GmbH & Co. KG 6.00
A Candellila Wax Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax Gustav Heess GmbH 6.00
A Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil - 15.00
A Cosphaderm® Octiol natural Caprylyl Glycol Cosphatec GmbH 0.50
B Cosphaderm® SF-75H Hydrogenated Lecithin Cosphatec GmbH 2.00
B Sensocel® bc 20 Cellulose CFF GmbH & Co. KG 10.00
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO Tocopherol Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Cosphatec GmbH 0.30
C Castor Oil Ricinus Communis Seed Oil Gustav Heess GmbH 10.00
C Cosphaderm® Feel Triheptanoin Cosphatec GmbH 5.00
C Unipure Red LC 381 CI 77491 SENSIENT BEAUTY 0.50
C Colorona® Russet Mica CI 77491 CI 77891 SUSONITY 0.50
C Titanium Dioxide CI 77891 - 2.00

Manufacturing Process

Phase A: Mix all ingredients together and heat to 80-85 °C until everything is melted.
Phase B: Add all ingredients of phase B to phase A at 70°C.
Phase C: Premix the pigments in the oils until everything is homogeneous and add it to the hot phase A+B and fill into packaging.

Specification

Appearance: Solid stick
Stability: stable for 3 months at room temperature and 40 °C
Microbiological stability: proven (Water activity value less than 0.75)

NATURAL MASCARA 700.129.1.1

NEW ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

VEGAN. LENGTH. SEPARATION OF THE LASHES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Octiol natural, Cosphaderm® Hexiol natural

PHASE INGREDIENT COSMOS INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water Aqua - 55.10
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural Propanediol Cosphatec GmbH 5.00
A Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters Jojoba Esters Aqua - 2.00
A Gummi Arabicum Acacia Senegal Gum - 0.50
A Cosphaderm® X 34 Xanthan Gum Cosphatec GmbH 0.50
A Cosphaderm® PA-12 Sodium Phytate Cosphatec GmbH 0.10
A Sorbitol Sorbitol - 1.00
A Cosphaderm® Octiol natural Caprylyl Glycol Cosphatec GmbH 0.30
A Cosphaderm® Hexiol natural 1,2-Hexanediol Cosphatec GmbH 1.50
B Cosphaderm® GS Connect Glyceryl Stearate Citrate Cosphatec GmbH 2.00
B Cutina® GMS V Glyceryl Stearate BASF SE 2.00
B Lanette® O Cetearyl Alcohol BASF SE 4.00
B Kahlwax 6607L Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera Kahl GmbH & Co. KG 7.00
B Carnauba Wax Copernicia Cerifera Cera Gustav Heess GmbH 3.00
B Shea Butter refined Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Gustav Heess GmbH 1.00
B Cosphaderm® Feel Triheptanoin Cosphatec GmbH 5.00
C Unipure Black LC 989 CI 77499 SENSIENT BEAUTY 10.00

Manufacturing Process

Phase A: Allow the Cosphaderm® Diols + Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters to pre-dissolve. Then add to the water and add the thickeners while stirring. Mix until everything is homogeneous and heat to 85-90°C.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients of phase B separately and heat to 90°C.
Add phase B to phase A while stirring. Homogenise while cooling.
Phase C: Add phase C and mix/homogenise.
Adjust pH value to 6.80 ± 0.05.

Specification

Appearance: Black, high viscous emulsion
pH: 6.8 ± 0.05
Stability: No separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min), stable for 3 months at room temperature and 40 °C
Microbiological stability: proven

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Formulations