Xanthan gum, also known as Xanthan, is a versatile polysaccharide produced by fermentation of sugar by the bacterial species Xanthomonas campestris. It is often used as a thickening agent and stabiliser in various cosmetic products. Its ability to increase the viscosity and improve the consistency of formulations makes it a valuable ingredient in the cosmetics industry.
Benefits of xanthan gum in cosmetic products
1. Xanthan gum as a thickening agent – viscosity control and rheology
Precise viscosity control
Xanthan gum is a highly effective rheological additive that controls the viscosity of cosmetic formulations with high precision. Its shear-thinning properties enable a stable consistency that flows easily under shear forces (such as when applied to the skin) while maintaining a thickened, gel-like texture.
Due to its non-Newtonian flow properties, xanthan gum keeps the texture of cosmetic products constant, but the viscosity is reduced depending on the shear forces. The higher the shear rate, the lower the viscosity of xanthan gum. This is particularly advantageous for products that are sold in different packaging, such as tubes or pump bottles.
2. Stabilisation of emulsions and suspensions
Improved emulsion stability
Xanthan gum acts as a highly effective emulsion stabiliser by preventing the coalescence of oil droplets and phase separation of oil-in-water emulsions. This is particularly important for complex formulations where long-lasting stability is crucial.
Suspension of particles
Thanks to its gel-forming properties, xanthan gum can hold fine particles, such as pigments or exfoliating grains, in a homogeneous suspension. This prevents settling or separation of particles and improves the consistency and aesthetics of the final product.
3. Compatibility and synergy with other polysaccharides
Possible combination
Xanthan gum can be combined well with other polysaccharides such as guar gum, carrageenan or hydroxyethyl cellulose. By combining these polymers, the viscoelastic properties of the formulation can be adjusted, resulting in a well-rounded texture and enhanced product performance.
Possible compatibility
Xanthan gum is an anionic polysaccharide, so it is compatible with many thickeners. A combination of different thickeners can reduce the concentration of the individual polymers and at the same time improve the stability and consistency of the product. Incompatibilities may occur when combined with cationic raw materials.
4. Stability under extreme conditions
pH stability
Xanthan Gum remains stable over a wide pH range, making it ideal for a variety of cosmetic formulations, including acidic and alkaline products. It maintains its viscosity regulating properties at pH values from 3 to 11, making it a versatile stabiliser for different formulations.
Temperature tolerance
This natural thickener is heat resistant and remains stable at temperatures up to 80°C without losing its structure or properties. This property is particularly advantageous for the incorporation of xanthan gum and for products that have to be produced under special manufacturing conditions.
5. Improvement of sensory properties and skin feel
Pleasant skin feel
Xanthan gum contributes to a smooth and pleasant texture that is easy to spread on the skin without leaving a sticky or greasy feeling. It improves spreadability and ensures that the formulation can be applied evenly to the skin.
Optimisation of the sensory profile
The use of xanthan gum in combination with other texturisers can further refine the sensory profile of the formulation by providing a balanced blend of slip and cushioning. This is particularly important for high quality skincare products that need to offer both functional and sensory benefits.
6. Biocompatibility and sustainability
High skin compatibility
Xanthan gum is a biocompatible polymer that is generally well tolerated and does not cause skin irritation. It is derived from natural raw materials and is biodegradable, making it an environmentally friendly choice for cosmetic product developers.
Sustainable sourcing
As xanthan gum is produced through fermentation, it comes from a renewable resource and has a relatively low environmental impact compared to synthetic thickeners. This meets the growing consumer demand for sustainable and environmentally friendly cosmetic products.
Important qualities and characteristics of xanthan gum in comparison
Xanthan gum is often used in the cosmetics industry to improve the viscosity and stability of formulations. Xanthan gum is characterised by various properties that should be taken into account by product developers and manufacturers of cosmetic formulations, some of which offer major advantages.
| Characteristics | Lower quality | High quality | Advantages of high quality |
|---|---|---|---|
| GMO status | GMO | NON GMO | Usage of NON-GMO bacteria and NON-GMO carbon source for fermentation process. Mostly necessary to certify the products as natural. |
| Specified values | Moderate | Excellent | Low heavy metals and low microbial values. |
| Stability | Limited | Broad range | High and low pH values or temperatures do not influence the viscosity. Suitable for all production conditions of cosmetic products. Important for stress conditions. Allows unlimited application range. |
| Salt tolerance | Moderate | High | Broad application range. |
| Transparency | Low | High | Suitable for gels with an extreme high transparency. |
| Solubility | Slow (powder) Forms aggregates | Fast (crystals) Nearly no aggregates | High work safety, easy to handle, less aggregation during the dissolving process, faster network forming. |
| Stickiness | High | Low | Better sensory properties of the cosmetic products. |
Xanthan gum vs. carbomer
Which thickener is the better choice for cosmetic formulations?
When choosing thickeners for cosmetic formulations, xanthan gum and carbomer are often at the centre of the discussion. Both offer useful properties, but xanthan gum has some key advantages that make it the preferred choice for many applications.
Xanthan gum is characterised by its exceptional stability over a wide pH range, making it versatile, even in acidic or alkaline formulations. In contrast, carbomer can only build up viscosity in a small pH range, which limits its application possibilities.
Carbomers are usually very fine, light powders that are very dusty during processing and sometimes need to be stirred vigorously. As the viscosity is only built up when the pH is adjusted, too high a concentration is often selected or agglomerates can form that can no longer be dissolved. Xanthan gum builds up viscosity regardless of the pH value and is also less dusty than carbomers, which makes it easier to incorporate.
Carbomers are synthetic polymers that can improve the texture of products. Even though the sensory profile and viscosity can be better than xanthan gum, a major disadvantage is that polyacrylic acids are the subject of much debate. Even though carbomer is not considered a microplastic, associations and manufacturers of cosmetic products are critical of polyacrylic acids. In terms of sensory profile, xanthan gum can be combined with other natural thickeners to imitate the sensory properties of carbomers.
In summary, xanthan gum offers superior performance and reliability compared to carbomers, making it the ideal choice for demanding cosmetic formulations.