For more than 2000 years Magnolia Extract 98 an integral part of traditional Chinese medicine. The valuable active ingredients, magnolol and honokiol, come from the bark of Magnolia officinalis but are also highly interesting as product protection or active ingredients for cosmetics.
Effectiveness against fungi
Magnolia Extract 98 has a broad, pH-independent, antimicrobial effect. The minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) against yeasts (C. albicans) and moulds (A. brasiliensis) is 0.01 % [w/v].
In bacterial load tests, which clearly better reflect the efficacy in cosmetic formulations, 0.20 % [w/v] has proven itself. However, due to its hydrophobic character, magnolia extract should be combined with surfactants such as glyceryl caprylate and/or diols. Diols increase the solubility of the extract in the water phase. Glyceryl caprylate as a co-emulsifier, on the other hand, pushes it into the interphase between water and oil. Both are crucial for effectiveness, as bacteria, yeasts and moulds grow in the water phase.
Protection of oils and waxes
Magnolia Extract 98 can also protect oils and waxes as it has an anti-oxidative effect. A comparison with mixed tocopherols shows that magnolia extract does not quite achieve the performance of tocopherols, but does have a significant effect.
Active ingredient properties
Active ingredients are usually used in cosmetic products in low concentrations. Magnolia extract can also be used here due to its antimicrobial and antioxidant properties. Its high effectiveness against caries and periodontal bacteria, as well as skin bacteria responsible for the inflammatory process of acne, should be emphasised. With a minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) of 0.001 % [w/v] against the above-mentioned germs, the concentration used in face creams and oral care products is correspondingly low.
Antioxidants used as active ingredients must be bioactive in order to be accepted, transported and processed by the body. Magnolia extract is one of these substances. It is remarkable that numerous studies have shown an antioxidant effect that is almost a thousand times higher than that of the bioactive alpha-tocopherol.
Magnolia extract thus offers properties for a very wide range of applications, with absolute conformity with natural cosmetics.
