POWER PROTECTION COSPHADERM® TOCOPHARIN

THE BENEFITS AT A GLANCE

Odourless liquid

Improved product protection performance

COSMOS and NATRUE approved

Suitable for different formulation types

pH-independent

Multifunctionality for skin and formulation

Protects the skin from damage caused by oxidative stress

COSPHADERM® TOCOPHARIN

Cosphaderm® Tocopharin consists of the natural antioxidants tocopherol and Carnosic acid dissolved in sunflower oil. It is an antioxidant blend that, when incorporated into products, does not affect their smell or colour and combines the protection of the oil phase of the formulation with a positive influence on oxidation processes in the skin.

What does Cosphaderm® Tocopherol consist of?

The included mixed tocopherols contain a high proportion of γ-Tocopherol and thus ensure excellent protection of the oil phase of the formulation. Carnosic Acid obtained from rosemary (Rosmarinus Officinalis) not only supports the tocopherols in protecting the oil phase, but also has a distinct effect in protecting the skin from oxidative stress.

What makes Carnosic acid so special?

Carnosic acid is a phenolic diterpene that is found in rosemary and has long been valued for its bioactive properties. Of all the constituents of rosemary, carnosolic acid is one of the key components that give the plant its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

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Effects on formulation

Cosmetic formulations containing oils must be protected against visual and odour impairment caused by oxidative processes. Thanks to the combination of the two antioxidant substances Tocopherol and Carnosic Acid, only low concentrations of Cosphaderm® Tocopharin starting from 0.1 % are required to ensure excellent product protection. Carnosic Acid impairs the formation of rancid odours caused by oxidation processes, which improves the shelf life of products with lipid components. In addition, the combination of the two antioxidant components within one product grants a lower required concentration of active substances compared to pure Tocopherol while maintaining the same antioxidant effect.

 

Improved oxidation stability

The outstanding effectiveness of Cosphaderm® Tocopharin in protecting oils against rancidity was demonstrated in Rancimat tests in comparison with the industry standard mixed tocopherols (Fig. 1). Relative change compared to untreated sunflower oil when using the antioxidants is shown. The improvement in oxidation stability with 0.2 % mixed tocopherols is evident. At the same concentration, a further 25 % increase in stability can be achieved with Cosphaderm® Tocopharin. At equivalent quantity of tocopherols, the influence of Carnosic Acid is clearly highlighted. The corresponding application concentration of 0.68 % Cosphaderm® Tocopharin leads to a tripling of oil stability.

Figure 1: Determination of oxidation stability via Rancimat test at 100 °C according to method §64 LFGB L13.00-38:2010-01. Relative increase in induction time compared to untreated sunflower oil by 0.2 % mixed tocopherols (green), 0.2 % Cosphaderm® Tocopharin (blue) or 0.68 % Cosphaderm® Tocopharin (red).

Effects on the skin

Antioxidants play a crucial role in cosmetic products as they protect the skin from oxidation-related damage and the associated signs of ageing. As a natural component of many plants, antioxidants neutralise free radicals with the help of their radical scavenging or electron donor properties, rendering them harmless.1 According to Loussouarn et al. (2017), the antioxidant effect of carnosolic acid is based on chemical quenching of reactive oxygen species (ROS)1. Cosphaderm® Tocopharin effectively uses the antioxidant properties of its two ingredients tocopherol and carnosolic acid. Carnosolic acid in particular helps to protect cells from oxidative stress caused by environmental pollution and UV rays.

Protects the skin from UV damage

In order to substantiate the antioxidant effect of Cosphaderm® Tocopharin in the skin, an in vitro study was conducted in which the amount of reactive oxygen species in human keratinocytes was measured. These skin cells were incubated with the test substances for 24 hours, exposed to UV irradiation for induction of ROS formation and subsequent measurement of decreased ROS formation. The positive effect of Cosphaderm® Tocopharin becomes obvious in comparison to the reference materials mixed tocopherols and the synthetic standard antioxidant Butylated Hydroxytoluene (BHT), which were each used at the same concentration in the assay (Fig.  2). The synthetic antioxidant BHT and the mixed tocopherols display comparable performance at 0.003 %. At the same application concentration, Cosphaderm® Tocopharin can significantly decrease the formation of ROS through UV irradiation. Compared to the untreated sample, Cosphaderm Tocopharin can reduce the ROS level by 26 %. These results confirm a striking skin-cell-protecting effect of Cosphaderm® Tocopharin against UV-induced oxidation processes.

Figure 2: Fluorometrically determined relative ROS quantity in human keratinocytes after 24-hour incubation with the test substances and subsequent two-hour UVA irradiation. Samples: untreated UVA-irradiated control (violet), BHT (red), mixed tocopherols (green), Cosphaderm® Tocopharin (blue). Statistical significance is indicated by * for p < 0.05.

 

When the skin is exposed to UV irradiation, the upregulation of matrix metalloproteinases causes the breakdown of extracellular matrix proteins such as collagens, which leads to a long-term loss of skin elasticity and thus represents another natural factor in photoageing. In the scientific literature on Carnosic acid, however, there is further evidence of its photoprotective properties¹. Thanks to the inhibition of matrix metalloproteinases by Carnosic acid, which has been proven in studies, photoageing can be actively prevented².

 

Anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties for sensitive skin

Carnosic acid provides further benefits for the skin. Its anti-inflammatory properties are manifested, for example, in the suppression of interleukin release and the blocking of the Syk/Src signalling pathway 3. Skin care products containing this compound can help reduce redness 4 and restore skin homeostasis. As an antimicrobial, Carnosic acid can also inhibit the growth of bacteria such as P. acnes and S. aureus 5. This makes it suitable, for example, for cosmetic applications to help control skin blemishes caused by acne 6.

Curious?

Would you like to test the ideal combination of Tocopherol and Carnosic acid in your formulations?

No problem! We will be happy to send you a free sample of Cosphaderm® Tocopharin.

FORMULATIONS WITH COSPHADERM® TOCOPHARIN

Discover our innovative Cosphaderm® Tocopharin formulations which are based on natural, skin-friendly raw materials. The combination of Tocopherol and Carnosic acid not only ensures high efficacy, but also stable cosmetic formulations.

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Anti Pollution Serum
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Colour & Care Lipstick
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Learn from our experts:

Register now for the free webinar on Cosphaderm® Tocopharin

24. April 2024

– All about Cosphaderm® Tocopharin and its properties
– Antioxidants: Pure tocopherols and blends
– Cosphaderm® Tapmix: Benefits of this premium, user-friendly antioxidant blend

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Sources:

1. Offord, E.A. et al., Free Radic Biol Med. 2002, 32(12), 1293-1303.

2. Park, M. et al., Exp Dermatol. 2013, 22(5), 336–341.

3. Oh, J. et al., Mediators Inflamm. 2012, 781375.

4. Reuter, J. et al., Planta Med. 2007, 73(11), 1190–1191.

5. Tada, M. et al., Chem Pharm Bull (Tokyo) 2010, 58(1), 27–29.

6. Birtić, S. et al., Phytochemistry, 2015,115, 9–19.
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