Emulsifiers play a crucial role in cosmetic formulations as they form the bridge between oil- and water-based ingredients. They help to stabilise and blend these different components, resulting in the smooth and even texture we expect from our skin, hair and body care products. In recent years, demand for emulsifiers from natural sources has increased as consumers increasingly seek products that meet their desire for more sustainable and environmentally friendly choices.
For your understanding. What are emulsifiers?
Emulsifiers are molecules with hydrophilic (water-loving) and lipophilic (oil-loving) properties. Their unique structure enables them to bind with both oil and water and form stable emulsions. Emulsions are colloidal systems in which tiny droplets of an immiscible liquid (e.g. oil) are dispersed in another (e.g. water) with the help of an emulsifier. The emulsifier forms a protective layer around the droplets, preventing them from coalescing and separating. Emulsifiers act as molecular „adhesives“ that ensure even distribution and stability of the various components in the cosmetic product.
Emulsions can be divided into two main types: oil-in-water (O/W) and water-in-oil (W/O).
- Oil-in-water emulsion (O/W): In an O/W emulsion, the oil droplets are dispersed in a continuous water phase. The emulsifiers in this type of formulation surround the oil droplets and form a protective layer that prevents them from coalescing and separating. O/W emulsions are often used in moisturisers, lotions and serums as they offer a light and non-greasy texture.
- Water-in-oil emulsion (W/O): In a W/O emulsion, water droplets are dispersed in a continuous oil phase. In this case, emulsifiers surround the water droplets and form a barrier that prevents the water from evaporating. W/O emulsions are often used in products such as cold creams and some sunscreens because they have a more occlusive and nourishing effect.
Based on natural emulsifiers
Natural emulsifiers are usually obtained from plant or animal sources. Common examples include lecithin, beeswax, cetyl alcohol, stearic acid and glyceryl stearate. These contain complex mixtures of lipids, fatty acids and other naturally occurring compounds. By using these natural components, cosmetics formulators can avoid synthetic chemicals that may be harmful to health or the environment.
Advantages of natural emulsifiers:
First of all, there is the Skin compatibility: Natural emulsifiers are often better tolerated by the skin than their synthetic counterparts. They are less likely to cause irritation or allergic reactions and are therefore suitable for sensitive skin types.
Sustainability: Natural emulsifiers are derived from renewable resources, reducing dependence on fossil fuel-based ingredients. Their production has a lower environmental impact and contributes to a more sustainable cosmetics industry.
Biodegradability: Many stabilisers of natural origin are biodegradable, meaning they can break down into simpler, environmentally friendly substances. This property reduces the accumulation of persistent pollutants in ecosystems.
Possible uses of natural emulsifiers:
It is important to note that emulsifiers can also influence the texture, viscosity and sensory properties of the final product. Formulators can experiment with different emulsifiers and combinations to achieve the desired results.
Natural emulsifiers are used in various cosmetic products, including:
- Moisturisers and lotions: Here, natural emulsifiers help to blend water- and oil-based ingredients in creams and lotions, moisturising and nourishing the skin without leaving a greasy residue.
- Sunscreen: Here, they facilitate the dispersion of UV filters in sunscreens, ensuring even coverage and protection from harmful sun rays.
- Shampoos and conditioners: Thanks to natural stabilisers, creamy textures combined with stability can be guaranteed in hair care products, ensuring efficient distribution of active ingredients for optimal cleansing and care.
As demand for natural and sustainable cosmetics continues to rise, the role of natural emulsifiers is becoming increasingly important. By harnessing the power of natural ingredients, formulators can develop high-performance products that not only deliver excellent results but also meet the principles of environmental responsibility.
Did you know?
With our portfolio of natural emulsifiers, you are ideally equipped for all applications. Brand new to the portfolio: Cosphaderm® GS Connect. Our natural COSMOS-compliant emulsifier contains glyceryl stearate citrate and leaves the skin feeling soft and pleasant. In addition, Cosphaderm® GS Connect can be combined excellently with other co-emulsifiers such as lecithins Cosphaderm® SF-75H and Cosphaderm® E NGM.
Here you can find the right emulsifier for your formulation.
Are you looking for a trend-based formulation? Discover our Anti-pollution serum, which, in addition to its antimicrobial effectiveness, has a moisturising effect and has been formulated with our natural emulsifiers.
