The modern, multifunctional use of cosmetic ingredients gives formulators the ability to create elegant products with short INCI lists, whilst still providing comprehensive functionality. In doing so, secondary benefits of ingredients support the main functions of other substances to enhance the overall performance of the formulation.
Cosphaderm® Zinc Lactate natural is a zinc salt derived from lactic acid and offers the user a number of these benefits. The strong antimicrobial efficacy of Cosphaderm® Zinc Lactate natural in a range of formulations has been demonstrated against a broad spectrum of relevant microorganisms in Challenge Tests. In addition, it supports the antioxidant as well as anti-inflammatory effect of a formulation. At the same time, it offers great anti-ageing and moisturising potential. These capabilities make it an ideal ingredient for deodorants, skin care creams and intimate care products. But it also offers good potential for use in oral care.
The special properties of zinc
Zinc is an essential trace element with a major influence on every conceivable type of physiological process. The importance of zinc for human health is highlighted by a variety of clinical pictures caused by zinc deficiency. A deficiency of zinc leads to an impairment of the functional integrity of a variety of systems such as the immune system, the central nervous system and the gastrointestinal tract.
But it also affects wound healing and the integumentary system, encompassing skin, hair and nails. The zinc content of the epidermis is important for skin homeostasis and plays an important role in cell proliferation and survival, as well as in the regulation of inflammation and the integrity of the epidermal barrier. Zinc regulates the activity and expression of enzymes and proteins with antioxidative effects. It is involved in protecting against UV radiation-mediated damage, such as lipid peroxidation and DNA changes. On account of its bacteriostatic and anti-inflammatory properties, zinc compounds have also been used as supportive agents in the treatment of acne.
Functions of lactic acid
Lactic acid is an Alpha Hydroxy Acid (“AHA”) and an important component of the skin’s Natural Moisturization Factors (“NMF”). AHAs also have a long history in dermatology, which utilises their exfoliating properties to treat acne, hyperpigmentation, scars and other conditions. These exfoliating properties are used in anti-ageing approaches to skin renewal in personal care. They are also associated with effective anti-wrinkle properties by stimulating glycosaminoglycan synthesis and increasing dermal thickness. As a natural NMF component, lactic acid has been featured in various formulations for decades for its water binding and moisturising properties. It also increases the ceramide content in the top layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum. This leads to improved epidermal barrier properties, as measured by the reduction in Trans-Epidermal Water Loss (“TEWL”). Considering that the exfoliating properties of AHAs are highly dependent on pH, it is possible to circumvent exfoliation by designing and focussing formulations on the moisturising function.
Cosphaderm® Zinc Lactate natural is a white, odourless and water-soluble powder. It has a neutral taste and delivers the best advantages from the combination of zinc and lactic acid in one product.
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