FORMULATIONS

MODERN COSMETICS FOR AMBITIOUS FORMULATORS

We understand the requirements and issues of cosmetic formulators. That’s why we spend a lot of time with application technology in our in-house laboratory. Here we investigate the incorporation and effect of raw materials in order to offer our customers the best possible support and appropriate recommendations.

We have provided a selected set of formulations for you to download here – enjoy!

FaceCare

BLACK PEELING MASK ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.26.2.2

PURIFYING. DETOXIFYING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® CA natural, Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Kaolin
Kaolin
-
10.00
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
8.00
A Plantacare® 818 UP
Coco Glucoside
BASF SE
3.00
A Charcoal Powder
Charcoal Powder
-
2.85
A Cosphaderm® CA natural
Cinnamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
A Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinAqua, Sodium Levulinate, Potassium SorbateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.20
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40
B Mango Butter
Mangifera Indica Seed Butter
-
6.00
B PolyAquol®-2W
Polyclyceryl-2-StearateGlyceryl StearateStearyl Alcohol
Innovacos
2.50
B Beeswax
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
B Ecorol® 16/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
2.00
B Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
C Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
D Kaolin
Kaolin
-
5.00
D Lipo® AMS
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Meal
Vantage Speciality Ingredients, Inc.
1.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A except Cosphaderm® CA natural and
Cosphaderm® LA-T and stir for 10 min at 1500 rpm. Add Cosphaderm® CA natural and raise the pH to 11
to dissolve it completely.
Then add Cosphaderm® LA-T to lower the pH again.
Phase B: Prepare phase B and heat phase A and phase B separately to 75 °C.
Add phase B to phase A under thorough stirring with the propeller stirrer and homogenise the mixture.
Phase C: Add Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98 to phase A+B under stirring and below 40 °C.
Phase D: Prepare phase D and add it to the formulation. Let the mask cool down under moderate
stirring.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Black, creamy paste with small exfoliants
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

MOISTURISING MAGNOLIA CREAM GEL ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.13.1.1

ACTIVE AGAINST ACNE. NOURISHING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural, Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Imwitor® 375
Glyceryl CitrateLactateLineolateOleate
IOI Oleo GmbH
0.50
A Babassu Oil
Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
A Macadamia Nut Oil
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
A Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
A Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
A Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.05
B Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
23.25
C Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
3.00
C Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
4.00
C Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
5.00
C Cosphaderm® KG
Amorphophallus Konjac Root Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.80
Demin. Water
Aqua
-
54.90

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Prepare phase A and melt at 50 °C, then cool down to room temperature.
Phase B: Prepare phase B and stir for 10 min.
Phase C: Prepare all ingredients of phase C except water. Slowly add the water under stirring and stir
until complete dissolution.
Combine phase A and B and homogenise. Add phase A+B in slow steps to phase C under thorough
stirring with the propeller stirrer.
Adjust pH to 5.5 – 6.0 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Shiny, viscous emulsion
pH: 5.5 – 6.0 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

BEAUTY OIL ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.19.1.1

SILKY SKIN FEEL. NOURISHING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Oil protection: Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
40.00
A Rosehip Seed Oil
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
A Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
45.00
A Evening Primrose Oil
Oenothera Biennis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.60
A Pomegranate Seed Oil
Punica Granatum Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
4.00
A Grape Seed Oil
Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
5.00
A Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A
-
q.s.

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Mix all ingredients together and heat to 50 °C until pomegranate seed oil is melted.
Stir phase A until complete dissolution.

Specification
Appearance: Yellow liquid
Stability: Microbiological stability proven

NATURAL LIP BALM ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.33.1.1

BALMY. PROTECTING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
31.70
A Wool Fat
Lanolin
Gustav Heess GmbH
20.00
A Beeswax
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
19.00
A Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
19.00
A Cocoa Butter
Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
10.00
A Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20

Manufacturing Process
Prepare phase A and heat to 70 °C until fully melted.
Stir until complete dissolution.
Fill into lip balm container and let it cool.

Specification
Appearance: Yellow balm
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

Cleansing

FRESH MAGNOLIA TOOTHPASTE

300.23.1.1

ACTIVE AGAINST CARIES. FLUORIDE-FREE. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98, Cosphaderm® TOM, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Cosphaderm® TOM
Pentylene GlycolGlyceryl CaprylateGlyceryl Undecylenate
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
B Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
15.00
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
B Xylitol
Xylitol
-
2.00
C Carbopol® Ultrez-21
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Lubrizol
0.10
C Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
D Kaolin
Kaolin
-
10.00
D Calcium Carbonate
Calcium Carbonate
Carl Roth GmbH & Co. KG
30.00
E Ethanol
Alcohol
Carl Roth GmbH & Co. KG
1.00
E Menthol
Menthol
FREY&LAU GmbH
0.50
F Perlastan® SC
Sodium/Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate
Schill + Seilacher Struktol GmbH
2.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine ingredients and stir until Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98 is dissolved.
Phase B: Prepare phase B and add to phase A under stirring. Heat the mixture to 50 °C.
Phase C: Slowly add phase C into A+B and stir until complete dissolution.
Phase D: Prepare phase D and add it to phase A+B+C under stirring.
Phase E: Add phase E to the mixture and stir for 10 minutes at 1000 rpm.
Phase F: Prepare phase F and add it to the finished formulation. Adjust the pH to 7.0 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Milky-white paste
pH: 7.0 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

CONDITIONING SHAMPOO ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

400.3.1.1

CONDITIONING. SLES-FREE. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® TOM, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural, Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
3.00
A Cosphaderm® TOM
Pentylene GlycolGlyceryl CaprylateGlyceryl Undecylenate
Cosphatec GmbH
1.80
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Sulfopon® 1216 G
Sodium Coco Sulfate
BASF SE
6.50
B Plantacare® 1200 UP
Lauryl Glucoside
BASF SE
7.36
B Dehyton® K
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
BASF SE
4.88
B Plantacare® 818 UP
Coco Glucoside
BASF SE
2.50
B Cosphaderm® E NGM
Lysolecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.05

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Mix all ingredients of phase A and stir until everything is dissolved.
Phase B: Mix phase B and heat phase A and B separately to 50 °C.
Add phase A to phase B under soft stirring. Try to avoid air bubbles.
Adjust the pH to 5.0 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Yellowish gel
pH: 5.0 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

Bodycare

WARMING FOOTCREAM

200.36.1.1

WARMING. BOOSTING BLOOD CIRCULATION. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural, Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98, Cosphaderm® GMCY

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
3.00
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
A Urea
Urea
-
10.00
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
C Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
8.00
C Lanette® O
Cetearyl Alcohol
BASF SE
3.00
C Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
8.00
C Carnauba Wax
Cera Carnauba
Gustav Heess GmbH
5.00
C Beeswax
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
8.00
C Cosphaderm® VBE
Vanillyl Butyl Ether
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
C Cosphaderm® GMCY
Glyceryl Caprylate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.80
C Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
C Lamecreme
Glyceryl StearateGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
-
5.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A.
Phase B: Slowly add Cosphaderm® X 34 to phase A under stirring and stir until complete dissolution.
Phase C: Prepare phase C. Heat phase A+B and phase C separately to 75 °C. Then add phase C to
phase A+B while stirring and let the formulation cool down.
Adjust pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Shiny, white cream
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)