FORMULATIONS

MODERN COSMETICS FOR AMBITIOUS FORMULATORS

We understand the requirements and issues of cosmetic formulators. That’s why we spend a lot of time with application technology in our in-house laboratory. Here we investigate the incorporation and effect of raw materials in order to offer our customers the best possible support and appropriate recommendations.

We have provided a selected set of formulations for you to download here – enjoy!

FaceCare

ULTRA HYDRATING SERUM ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.106.1.1

ANTI-AGING. REGENERATING. SMOOTHING.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® MultiMEG

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
83.10
A Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
5.00
A Cosphaderm® PA-12
Sodium Phytate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Cosphaderm® X soft
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate high
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Olivem® 1000
Cetearyl OlivateSorbitan Olivate
Hallstar
2.50
B MCT Oil Typ V Ph. Eur.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Gustav Heess GmbH
5.00
B Grape Seed Oil
Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
C Cosphaderm® MultiMEG
Glyceryl CaprylatePentylene GlycolMagnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
1.40

MANUFACTURING PROCESS
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and stir until everything is completely dissolved. Heat to 75 °C.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients and heat to 75 °C. Add then phase B to phase A under strong stirring and homogenise.
Phase C: Add phase C to the formulation and stir.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

SPECIFICATION
Appearance: White emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

Cleansing

BALM TO MILK FACIAL CLEANSER ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

300.81.1.1

GENTLE CLEANSING. MAKE-UP REMOVING. VEGAN.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® MultiMEG

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
40.00
A Sucrose Stearate
Sucrose Stearate
-
3.00
B MCT Oil Typ V Ph. Eur.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Gustav Heess GmbH
35.50
B Argan Oil
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
20.00
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
C Cosphaderm® MultiMEG
Glyceryl CaprylatePentylene GlycolMagnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and stir until everything is completely dissolved.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients of phase B.
Heat both phases separately to 70-75 °C and add phase B to A very slowly while homogenising.
Phase C: Cool down to 40°C and add Phase C.

Specification
Appearance: Slightly yellowish gel
Stability: Microbiological stability proven (Water activity value less than 0.75)

Bodycare

RICH & SOFT HANDCREAM ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

200.4.1.2

REGENERATING. SOFT SKIN FEEL. MOISTURISING.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® MultiMEG

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
76.55
A Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
2.00
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.25
B Lamecreme
Glyceryl StearateGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
-
2.50
B Montanov™ 68
Cetearyl AlcoholCetearyl Glucoside
SEPPIC, S.A.
2.00
B Tegomuls
Hydrogenated Palm Glyceride
-
0.50
B Ecorol® 18/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
1.00
B Beeswax
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
0.50
B Carnauba Wax
Copernicia Cerifera Cera
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
B Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
B Sunflower Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
B Peach Kernel Oil
Prunus Persica Kernel Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.50
B Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
B Cosphaderm® AP
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
C Cosphaderm® MultiMEG
Glyceryl CaprylatePentylene GlycolMagnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
1.20

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Mix all ingredients together.
Phase B: Slowly add Cosphaderm® X 34 to phase A under strong stirring. Continue stirring for approx.
15 min at 500 rpm until complete dissolution. Then heat to 80 °C.
Phase C: Mix all ingredients together and heat to 80 °C.
Phase C: Add phase C to phase A+B and homogenise for approx. 1 min using Ultra-Turrax. Cool down
under medium stirring.
Phase D: Add Cosphaderm® MultiMEG below 40 °C under vigorous stirring.
Adjust pH if necessary.

Specification
Appearance: White, shiny, viscous emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

MenCare

FRESH & COOL AFTERSHAVE

600.37.1.1

COOLING. SOOTHING. MOISTURISING.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® MultiMEG, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
67.55
A Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
3.00
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Ronacare® Allantoin
Allantoin
Merck KGaA
0.20
A Aristoflex® AVC
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/ VP Copolymer
Clariant AG
0.50
B Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
3.50
B Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
4.00
B Olive Oil
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
B Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B Avocado Oil
Persea Gratissima Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B Sesame Oil
Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B Carotene Oil
Glycine Soja Oilbeta-carotene
-
0.05
B Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B Cocoa Butter
Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
0.20
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
B Lamecreme
Glyceryl StearateGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
-
4.00
B Camphor
Camphor
-
0.10
C Ethanol
Alcohol
Carl Roth GmbH & Co. KG
0.60
C Menthol
Menthol
FREY&LAU GmbH
0.70
D Cosphaderm® MultiMEG
Glyceryl CaprylatePentylene GlycolMagnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
1.60

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Add Allantoin to water and heat to 40 °C. Stir until complete dissolution. Add Glycerin and
Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural. While stirring add Cosphaderm® X 34. Stir until complete
dissolution. Then add Aristoflex® AVC and stir until complete dissolution.
Phase B: Prepare phase B and separately heat phase A and phase B to 80 °C.
Add phase B to phase A while stirring.
Phase C+D: Add phase C and D below 40 °C.
Adjust pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Yellowish cream
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

Sun & Color Care

COLOR & CARE LIPSTICK ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

700.111.1.1

VEGAN. SATIN-SOFT FINISH. NOURISHING.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® MultiMEG

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
9.90
A Carnauba Wax
Copernicia Cerifera Cera
Gustav Heess GmbH
6.00
A Kahlwax 6290
Rhus Verniciflua Cera
Kahl GmbH & Co. KG
4.00
A Kahlwax 6607L
Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera
Kahl GmbH & Co. KG
10.00
A MCT Oil Typ V Ph. Eur.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Gustav Heess GmbH
17.00
A Octyldodecanol
Octyldodecanol
-
15.00
B Castor Oil
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
20.00
B Cosphaderm® MultiMEG
Glyceryl CaprylatePentylene GlycolMagnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.80
B Unipure Red LC 381
CI 77491
SENSIENT BEAUTY
6.00
B Zinc Oxide
CI 77947
-
5.00
B Unipure Yellow LC 182
CI 77492
SENSIENT BEAUTY
1.00
B Cosphaderm® Tocopharin
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed OilCarnosic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
C CORN PO4 PH “B“
Distarch Phosphate
Agrana
5.00

MANUFACTURING PROCESS
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and heat to 80-85°C until everything is melted.
Phase B: Disperse phase B. Then add phase B to phase A.
Phase C: Add phase C to the finished formulation and melt again.
Pour into molds.

SPECIFICATION
Appearance: Red stick
Stability: Microbiological stability proven (Water activity value less than 0.75)