FORMULATIONS

MODERN COSMETICS FOR AMBITIOUS FORMULATORS

We understand the requirements and issues of cosmetic formulators. That’s why we spend a lot of time with application technology in our in-house laboratory. Here we investigate the incorporation and effect of raw materials in order to offer our customers the best possible support and appropriate recommendations.

We have provided a selected set of formulations for you to download here – enjoy!

FaceCare

AFTER-SUN GEL

100.54.2.1

COOLING. STRESS-RELIEVING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® Pentiol GL

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
78.40
A Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
5.00
A Cinnamic Acid
Cinnamic Acid
-
0.20
A Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinSodium LevulinateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® X soft
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
B Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B D-Panthenol 75 %
PanthenolAqua
-
1.00
B Cosphaderm® Pentiol GL
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
B Witch Hazel Water
Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Water
-
10.00
B Ronacare® Allantoin
Allantoin
Merck KGaA
0.20
B Aloe Vera Powder
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
-
0.50

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and mix with a stirring rod, then set aside.
Phase B: Add Cosphaderm® CA natural, witch hazel water, allantoin and aloe vera powder to the water
and increase the pH value to 9 – 10. Stir until the powder has dissolved completely. Afterwards, add
Cosphaderm® LA-T to the mixture.
Add phase B to phase A and stir until a slightly viscous gel is formed.
Adjust pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Yellowish, clear, slightly viscous gel
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

INTENSE MOISTURISING CREAM ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.109.2.1

ANTI-AGING. HYDRATING. SMOOTHING.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Dicapo natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
69.60
A Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
4.00
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Cosphaderm® GS Connect
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Cosphatec GmbH
2.50
B Lanette® O
Cetearyl Alcohol
BASF SE
3.00
B Cutina® GMS V
Glyceryl Stearate
BASF SE
2.00
B Shea Butter
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
5.00
B MCT Oil Typ V Ph. Eur.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Gustav Heess GmbH
7.00
B Grape Seed Oil
Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
B Cetiol® OE
Dicaprylyl Ether
BASF SE
2.00
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
C Cosphaderm® Dicapo natural
Caprylyl GlycolPropanediolGlyceryl Caprylate
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00

MANUFACTURING PROCESS
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and stir until everything is completely dissolved. Heat to 75 °C.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients and heat to 75 °C. Add then phase B to phase A under strong stirring and homogenise.
Phase C: Add phase C to the formulation and stir.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

SPECIFICATION
Appearance: White emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

RICH NIGHTCREAM

100.6.1.1

ANTI-POLLUTION. NOURISHING. ANTI-AGEING.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Hexiol, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural, Cosphaderm® Octiol

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Cosphaderm® Hexiol
1,2-Hexanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
A Cosphaderm® Octiol
Caprylyl Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
C Demin. Water
Aqua
-
67.00
D Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
8.00
D Sesame Oil
Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
5.00
D Avocado Oil
Persea Gratissima Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
D Rosehip Seed Oil
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
D Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.50
D Cocoa Butter
Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.50
D Lamecreme
Glyceryl StearateGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
-
4.00
D Ecorol® 16/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
1.50
D Cosphaderm® E-1000Ac NON GMO
Tocopherol AcetateHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
D Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
E D-Panthenol 75 %
PanthenolAqua
-
1.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Mix phase A and stir until everything is completely dissolved.
Phase B: Add phase B to phase A and stir until dispersed.
Phase C: Slowly add phase C to phase A+B and stir until complete dissolution.
Phase D: Mix all ingredients of phase D and heat phase A+B+C and D separately to 80 °C.
Add phase D slowly to phase A+B+C while stirring.
Phase E: Add Panthenol to the finished formulation (below 40 °C).
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Shiny, viscous emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

URBAN ANTI-POLLUTION SKIN ELIXIR

100.18.2.1

ANTI-POLLUTION. HIGH SPREADABILITY. ANTI-AGEING.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
64.30
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
10.00
A Cosphaderm® X soft
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Cosphaderm® Leo
Dipropylene GlycolEthylhexylglycerinCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
2.70
B Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
B Ecorol® 16/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
1.00
B Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
4.00
B Babassu Oil
Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
4.00
B Apricot Kernel Oil
Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
4.00
B Sesame Oil
Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
B Evening Primrose Oil
Oenothera Biennis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
B Rosehip Seed Oil
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
B Grape Seed Oil
Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Cosphaderm® E-1000 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Prepare phase A and stir at 2000 rpm until complete dissolution.
Phase B: Prepare phase B and heat to 50 °C until everything is melted. Let the mixture cool down to
room temperature.
Phase C: Prepare phase C and stir for 10 min at 800 rpm.
Add phase C to phase B and stir at 2000 rpm to emulsify both phases.
Add phase A to phase B+C and homogenise for 3 minutes.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: White, shiny emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

FACE SHEET MASK

100.27.1.1

ANTI-WRINKLE. MOISTURISING. HYDRATING.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
84.65
A Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
8.00
A Cosphaderm® Leo
Dipropylene GlycolEthylhexylglycerinCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
5.00
B Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.05
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Carbopol® Ultrez 21 Polymer
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Lubrizol
0.10

Manufacturing Process
This formulation can be prepared at room temperature.
Phase A: Combine all ingredients.
Phase B: Prepare phase B and slowly add to phase A under stirring. Continue stirring for approx. 15 min
at 700 – 1000 rpm until complete dissolution.
Adjust pH to 6.5 ± 0.05 if necessary.

Specification
Appearance: Translucent serum
pH: 6.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

HairCare

SCALP PEELING ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

400.93.1.1

EXFOLIATING. HYDRATING. SOOTHING.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural, Cosphaderm® Zinc Lactate natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
85.70
A Cosphagard® SA natural
Salicylic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
B Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
3.00
B D-Panthenol 75 %
PanthenolAqua
-
0.50
B Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Caffeine Powder
Caffeine
-
1.00
B Betaine
Betaine
Clariant AG
2.00
B Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
5.00
B Cosphaderm® Zinc Lactate natural
Zinc Lactate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40

MANUFACTURING PROCESS
Phase A: Combine the ingredients of phase A. Raise the pH to 11 to dissolve Cosphagard® SA natural. When everything is dissolved, lower the pH back to 4-5 again.
Phase B: Add all ingredients from phase B one after another.
Adjust the pH to 4.0 ± 0.05.

SPECIFICATION
Appearance: Clear solution
pH: 4.0 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

Cleansing

SOFT CLEANSING FOAM ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

300.83.1.1

GENTLE CLEANSING. REFRESHING. SOOTHING.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® GeMix, Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
83.40
A Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
A Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT
Phytic AcidAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
A D-Panthenol 75 %
PanthenolAqua
-
1.00
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
C Plantacare® 818 UP
Coco Glucoside
BASF SE
4.00
C Perlastan® SC
Sodium/Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate
Schill + Seilacher Struktol GmbH
4.00
C SOFTISAN® conditionHAIR
PCA Glyceryl Oleate
IOI Oleo GmbH
0.50
C Cosphaderm® GeMix
Glyceryl CaprylateGlyceryl Undecylenate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.80

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and stir until everything is dissolved.
Phase B: Add phase B to phase A under stirring.
Phase C: Combine all ingredients of phase C separately. Add then phase C to phase A and B under
stirring.
Adjust pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Transparent solution
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

NATURAL LIQUID SOAP ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

300.40.2.1

FOAMING. SLES-FREE. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Sodium LAAS

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Glycerin
Glycerin
-
4.00
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Cosphaderm® EGCg ECONAT
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Cosphaderm® Sodium LAAS
Sodium LevulinateSodium Anisate
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
C Plantacare® 818 UP
Coco Glucoside
BASF SE
7.00
C Plantacare® 810 UP
Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
BASF SE
3.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and stir until Cosphaderm® X 34 and Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate are dispersed.
Phase B: Add phase B to phase A.
Phase C: Add phase C to phase A+B under stirring.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Light yellow gel
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

Bodycare

MOISTURISING BODY YOGHURT

200.9.1.1

HIGH SPREADABILITY. LIGHT SKIN FEEL. SOFTENING.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Dicapo

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
13.00
A Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Imwitor® 375
Glyceryl CitrateLactateLineolateOleate
IOI Oleo GmbH
0.50
A Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
3.00
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
81.80
B Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
B Carbopol® Ultrez-21
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Lubrizol
0.30
B Cosphaderm® Dicapo
Caprylyl GlycolGlyceryl CaprylateDipropylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
0.70

Manufacturing Process
This formulation can be prepared at room temperature.
Phase A: Mix all ingredients of phase A under stirring.
Phase B: Mix all ingredients of phase B under stirring. Add phase A into phase B and homogenise until
everything is dissolved. Adjust the pH to 6.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: White cream
pH: 6.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

MenCare

AFTER SHAVE FLUID ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

600.105.1.1

FAST ABSORBING. HYDRATING. COOLING.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Hexiol natural, Cosphaderm® GMCY

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
81.30
A Aloe Vera Powder
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
-
0.10
A Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
5.00
A D-Panthenol 75 %
PanthenolAqua
-
0.50
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Montanov™ 202
Arachidyl AlcoholBehenyl AlcoholArachidyl Glucoside
SEPPIC, S.A.
5.00
B Cosphaderm® GMCY
Glyceryl Caprylate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
B Bisabolol
Bisabolol
-
0.30
B MCT Oil Typ V Ph. Eur.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Gustav Heess GmbH
5.00
C Cosphaderm® Hexiol natural
1,2-Hexanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
C Menthol
Menthol
-
0.30

MANUFACTURING PROCESS
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and stir until everything is completely dissolved. Heat to 70-75 °C.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients and heat to 75 °C. Add then phase B to phase A under strong stirring and homogenise.
Phase C: Dissolve the menthol in Cosphaderm® Hexiol natural and add below 40°C.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

SPECIFICATION
Appearance: White emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)