| PHASE | INGREDIENT | COSMOS | INCI | SUPPLIER | % |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| A | Demin. Eau | Aqua | - | 53.95 | |
| A | Plantacare® 818 UP | Coco glucoside | BASF SE | 3.00 | |
| A | Acide cinnamique | Acide cinnamique | - | 0.30 | |
| A | Cosphaderm® LA-T | Acide lévulinique Glycérine Levulinate de sodium Aqua | Cosphatec GmbH | 1.20 | |
| B | Kaolin | Kaolin | - | 10.00 | |
| B | Glycérine | Glycérine | - | 8.00 | |
| B | Poudre de charbon | Poudre de charbon | - | 2.85 | |
| B | Cosphaderm® X 34 | Gomme de xanthane | Cosphatec GmbH | 0.40 | |
| C | PolyAquol® 2W | Polyglycéryl-2 stéarate Stéarate de glycéryle Alcool stéarylique | Innovacos | 2.50 | |
| C | Beurre de mangue | Beurre de graine de Mangifera Indica | - | 6.00 | |
| C | Beeswax | Cera alba | Gustav Heess GmbH | 2.50 | |
| C | Lanette® 16 | Alcool cétylique | BASF SE | 2.00 | |
| C | Cosphaderm® Feel | Triheptanoïne | Cosphatec GmbH | 1.00 | |
| C | Cosphaderm® T-70 NON OGM ECO | Tocophérol Huile de graine d'hélianthus annuus | Cosphatec GmbH | 0.10 | |
| D | Cosphaderm® Extrait de magnolia 98 | Extrait d'écorce de Magnolia Officinalis | Cosphatec GmbH | 0.20 | |
| D | Kaolin | Kaolin | - | 5.00 | |
| D | Lipo® AMS | Graines de Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis | Vantage Speciality Ingredients, Inc. | 1.00 |
Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and raise the pH to 11 to dissolve the cinnamic acid completely. Afterwards, adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05 by adding Citric Acid.
Phase B: Add phase B to phase A while stirring. Stir until everything is completely dissolved.
Phase C: Prepare phase C and heat both phases separately to 75 °C.
Add phase C to phase A/B under stirring and homogenise the mixture.
Phase D: Add phase D to the formulation.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.
Specification
Appearance: Black, creamy paste with small exfoliants
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: No separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min), stable for 3 months at room temperature and 40 °C
Microbiological stability: proven
