FORMULIERUNGEN

MODERNE KOSMETIK FÜR ANSPRUCHSVOLLE ENTWICKLER

Wir verstehen die Anforderungen und Fragestellungen von Kosmetik-Entwicklern. Darum verbringen wir viel Zeit mit Anwendungstechnik in unserem In-House Labor. Hier untersuchen wir die Einarbeitung und Wirkung von Rohstoffen, um unseren Kunden den bestmöglichen Support und passende Empfehlungen bieten zu können.

Ein ausgewähltes Set an Formulierungen haben wir hier zum Download bereitgestellt – viel Spaß damit!

FaceCare

RICH MOISTURISER ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.42.2.1

NOURISHING. HYDRATING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® CA natural, Cosphaderm® GeMix

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Demin. Water
-
ad 100
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
5.00
A Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT
Phytic AcidAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Cosphaderm® CA natural
Cinnamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
C Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
C Argan Oil
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
C Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
C Imwitor® 372P
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
IOI Oleo GmbH
2.00
D Cosphaderm® GeMix
Glyceryl CaprylateGlyceryl Undecylenate
Cosphatec GmbH
1.20

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A under stirring. Stir until Cosphaderm® X 34 is completely
dissolved. Raise the pH to 11 to dissolve Cosphaderm® CA natural.
Phase B: Add Cosphaderm® SF-75H to phase A under stirring and let it soak for 10 minutes. Then heat
phase A+B to 80 °C.
Phase C: Combine all ingredients of phase C and heat to 80 °C. Add then phase C to phase A+B under
strong stirring and homogenise the formulation.
Phase D: Add Cosphaderm® GeMix below 40 °C.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: White cream
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

MOISTURISING FACE GEL

100.29.1.1

HYDRATING. REFRESHING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Pentiol GL, Cosphaderm® Hexiol

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
5.00
A Cosphaderm® Pentiol GL
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
A Cosphaderm® Hexiol
1,2-Hexanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
1.50
A RonaCare® Nicotinamide
Niacinamide
Merck KGaA
4.00
A D-Panthenol 75 %
PanthenolAqua
-
2.00
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Carbopol® Ultrez-21
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40

Manufacturing Process
Combine all ingredients of phase A and stir with a propeller stirrer at 1500 – 2000 rpm until everything is
completely dissolved. Then add phase B to phase A under stirring.
Adjust the pH to 6.0 ± 0.05 to thicken the formulation.

Specification
Appearance: Transparent, clear gel
pH: 6.0 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

ANTI-WRINKLE EYE CREAM ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.49.1.1

MOISTURISING. NURTURING. ANTI-WRINKLE.

Preservation: Cosphagard® Pol

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Cosphagard® Pol
AquaSodium LevulinatePotassium Sorbate
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
B Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
B Sesame Oil
Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
4.00
B Evening Primrose Oil
Oenothera Biennis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
B Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
B Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
B Wheat Germ Oil
Triticum Vulgare Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B Imwitor 960 K
Glyceryl Stearate SE
IOI Oleo GmbH
3.00
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Lanette® O
Cetearyl Alcohol
BASF SE
0.50
B Imwitor® 372P
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
IOI Oleo GmbH
1.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A under stirring until Cosphaderm® X 34 is completely dissolved.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients of phase B. Heat both phases separately to 70 °C and add phase B
to phase A under stirring.
After stirring for 5 minutes homogenise the formulation and adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: White, shiny emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

URBAN ANTI-POLLUTION SKIN ELIXIR

100.18.2.1

ANTI-POLLUTION. HIGH SPREADABILITY. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
34.30
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
10.00
A Cosphaderm® X soft
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Cosphaderm® Leo
Dipropylene GlycolEthylhexylglycerinCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
2.70
B Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
4.00
B Babassu Oil
Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
4.00
B Apricot Kernel Oil
Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
4.00
B Sesame Oil
Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
B Evening Primrose Oil
Oenothera Biennis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
B Rosehip Seed Oil
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
B Grape Seed Oil
Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Cosphaderm® E-1000 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Ecorol® 16/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
1.00
C Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
C Demin. Water
Aqua
-
30.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Prepare phase A and stir at 2000 rpm until complete dissolution.
Phase B: Prepare phase B and heat to 50 °C until everything is melted. Let the mixture cool down to
room temperature.
Phase C: Prepare phase C and stir for 10 min at 800 rpm.
Add phase C to phase B and stir at 2000 rpm to emulsify both phases.
Add phase A to phase B+C and homogenise for 3 minutes.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: White, shiny emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

WAKE UP SERUM

100.53.1.1

BOOSTING. VITALISING. MOISTURISING.

Preservation: Cosphagard® Cap

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
5.00
A Cosphagard® Cap
PhenoxyethanolCaprylyl Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
A Caffeine Powder
Caffeine
-
1.50
A Ronacare® Allantoin
Allantoin
Merck KGaA
0.50
B Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate high
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Add all ingredients of phase A into a beaker and stir until caffeine and allantoin are completely
dissolved.
Phase B: Add phase B to phase A while stirring vigorous. Stir until no clumps are left.
Adjust pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Transparent, clear, slightly viscous liquid
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

BOOSTING SERUM

100.7.2.1

ANTI-AGING. MOISTURISING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
5.00
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate high
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Cosphaderm® Leo
Dipropylene GlycolEthyhexylglycerinCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
2.50

Manufacturing Process
This formulation can be prepared at room temperature.
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and stir until everything is completely dissolved.
Phase B: Add Cosphaderm® Leo to phase A.
Adjust pH to 5.5 ± 0.05 if necessary.

Specification
Appearance: Translucent serum
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

HYDRO JELLY MASK

100.21.3.1

INTENSIVELY HYDRATING. RELAXING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Hexiol, Cosphaderm® Pentiol GL, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
5.00
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Cosphaderm® KG
Amorphophallus Konjac Root Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
C Cosphaderm® Pentiol GL
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
5.00
C Cosphaderm® Hexiol
1,2-Hexanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
C Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
5.00
C Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
D Cosmetic Colour
-
q.s.

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Prepare phase A and stir until dispersed.
Phase B: Slowly add the water to phase A under stirring and stir until complete dissolution.
Phase C: Prepare phase C and stir for 10 minutes. Add phase C to phase A+B and adjust pH
to 5.5 – 6.0 ± 0.05.
Phase D: Add colour if wanted.
Heat the mixture to its boiling point and keep this temperature for 2 – 3 minutes.
Quickly pour the hot mixture into a casting mould and let it cool.

Specification
Appearance: Translucent or coloured, elastic gel
pH: 5.5 – 6.0 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

VITALISING SKIN GEL ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.28.2.1

QUICKLY ABSORBING. RICH SKIN FEEL. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® Sodium pAS natural

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
4.00
A Cosphaderm® X soft
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Demin. Water
Aqua
Cremer GmbH
59.70
A Cosphaderm® pAS natural
Sodium Anisate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40
B Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinSodium LevulinateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.20
C Demin. Water
Aqua
-
22.50
C Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
3.50
C Sunflower Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
5.00
C Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Prepare phase A and stir until everything is completely dissolved.
Phase B: Add very slowly Cosphaderm® LA-T to phase A under stirring.
Phase C: Prepare phase C and homogenise for 5 minutes with high performance disperser
(stator/rotor) at max. speed.
Add phase C to phase A+B in small steps under stirring.
Adjust pH value to 5.5 ± 0.5.

Specification
Appearance: Shiny emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

BOOSTING GLOW MIST

100.35.1.1

REFRESHING. SKIN BOOSTING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural, Cosphaderm® Hexiol

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Aloe Vera 0.05 %
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
-
76.10
A RonaCare® Niacinamide
Niacinamide
Merck KGaA
3.50
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A D-Panthenol 75 %
PanthenolAqua
-
1.00
A Cosphaderm® Hexiol
1,2-Hexanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
1.50
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
5.00
A Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT
Phytic AcidAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Olive Oil
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.50
B Argan Oil
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
B Avocado Oil
Persea Gratissima Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B Evening Primrose Oil
Oenothera Biennis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.50
B Rosehip Seed Oil
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
B Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.50
B Macadamia Nut Oil
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
0.50
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and stir until complete dissolution.
Adjust the pH value to 5.5 ± 0.05.
Phase B: Prepare phase B in a separate beaker.
Add phase B to phase A without stirring and pour mixture into spray flask.

Specification
Appearance: Two-phase system with oil phase on top of translucent water phase
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven

Special Care

FACE CREAM FOR MEN

600.56.2.1

BOOSTING. LIGHT SKIN FEEL. HYDRATING.

Preservation: Cosphagard® Elbe, Cosphaderm® GMCY

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
9.00
A Coconut Oil
Cocos Nucifera Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
A Shea Butter
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
A Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
1.50
A Sunflower Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
A Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
A Macadamia Oil
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.50
A Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Ecorol® 16/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
1.00
A Imwitor® 372P
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
IOI Oleo GmbH
3.00
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
B Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40
B Ronacare® Allantoin
Allantoin
Merck KGaA
0.20
B Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate high
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
C Aloe Vera Powder
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
-
0.20
C D-Panthenol 75 %
PanthenolAqua
-
0.50
C Cosphaderm® GMCY
Glyceryl Caprylate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40
C Cosphagard® Elbe
AquaSodium LevulinateSodium Benzoate
Cosphatec GmbH
2.50

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and heat to 80 °C.
Phase B: Combine all of the liquid ingredients and add the powders while stirring.
Then heat to 80 °C.
Afterwards combine phase A and B and homogenise the mixture.
Phase C: Add phase C to the formulation (<40 °C) and stir.
Homogenise a second time if needed.
Adjust pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: White, shiny emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)