FORMULIERUNGEN

MODERNE KOSMETIK FÜR ANSPRUCHSVOLLE ENTWICKLER

Wir verstehen die Anforderungen und Fragestellungen von Kosmetik-Entwicklern. Darum verbringen wir viel Zeit mit Anwendungstechnik in unserem In-House Labor. Hier untersuchen wir die Einarbeitung und Wirkung von Rohstoffen, um unseren Kunden den bestmöglichen Support und passende Empfehlungen bieten zu können.

Ein ausgewähltes Set an Formulierungen haben wir hier zum Download bereitgestellt – viel Spaß damit!

FaceCare

MOISTURISING DAYCREAM

100.1.1.1

RICH SKIN FEEL. QUICKLY ABSORBING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Dicapo

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
3.00
A Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT
Phytic AcidAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Aristoflex® AVC
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/ VP Copolymer
Clariant AG
1.00
C Cosphaderm® E NGM
Lysolecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.50
Cegesoft® SH
Shorea Stenoptera Seed Butter
BASF SE
2.50
C Sunflower Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
C Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
C Softisan® 154
Hydrogenated Palm Oil
IOI Oleo GmbH
1.00
C Cosphaderm® AP
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
C Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
C Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
D Cosphaderm® Dicapo
Caprylyl GlycolGlyceryl CaprylateDipropylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
0.70

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Mix all ingredients together.
Phase B: Slowly add Cosphaderm® X 34 and Aristoflex® AVC under vigorous stirring to phase A.
Continue stirring for approx. 15 min at 500 rpm until complete dissolution. Then heat to 80 °C.
Phase C: Mix all ingredients and heat to 80 °C. Add phase C to phase A+B and
homogenise via vigorous stirring for approx. 10 min.
Phase D: Add Cosphaderm® Dicapo below 40 °C under vigorous stirring.
Adjust pH if necessary.

Specification
Appearance: Shiny, viscous emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

RICH NIGHTCREAM

100.6.1.1

ANTI-POLLUTION. NOURISHING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Hexiol, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural, Cosphaderm® Octiol

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Cosphaderm® Hexiol
1,2-Hexanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
A Cosphaderm® Octiol
Glyceryl Caprylate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
C Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
D Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
8.00
D Sesame Oil
Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
5.00
D Avocado Oil
Persea Gratissima Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
D Rosehip Seed Oil
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
D Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.50
D Cocoa Butter
Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.50
D Lamecreme
Glyceryl StearateGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
-
4.00
D Ecorol® 16/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
1.50
D Cosphaderm® E-1000Ac NON GMO
Tocopherol AcetateHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
D Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
E D-Panthenol 75 %
PanthenolAqua
-
1.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Mix phase A and stir until everything is completely dissolved.
Phase B: Add phase B to phase A and stir until dispersed.
Phase C: Slowly add phase C to phase A+B and stir until complete dissolution.
Phase D: Mix all ingredients of phase D and heat phase A+B+C and D separately to 80 °C.
Add phase D slowly to phase A+B+C while stirring.
Phase E: Add Panthenol to the finished formulation (below 40 °C).
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Shiny, viscous emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

URBAN ANTI-POLLUTION SKIN ELIXIR

100.18.2.1

ANTI-POLLUTION. HIGH SPREADABILITY. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
34.30
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
10.00
A Cosphaderm® X soft
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Cosphaderm® Leo
Dipropylene GlycolEthylhexylglycerinCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
2.70
B Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
4.00
B Babassu Oil
Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
4.00
B Apricot Kernel Oil
Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
4.00
B Sesame Oil
Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
B Evening Primrose Oil
Oenothera Biennis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
B Rosehip Seed Oil
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
B Grape Seed Oil
Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Cosphaderm® E-1000 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Ecorol® 16/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
1.00
C Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
C Demin. Water
Aqua
-
30.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Prepare phase A and stir at 2000 rpm until complete dissolution.
Phase B: Prepare phase B and heat to 50 °C until everything is melted. Let the mixture cool down to
room temperature.
Phase C: Prepare phase C and stir for 10 min at 800 rpm.
Add phase C to phase B and stir at 2000 rpm to emulsify both phases.
Add phase A to phase B+C and homogenise for 3 minutes.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: White, shiny emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

SKIN SMOOTHIE ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.17.2.1

VITAMIN-RICH. VITALISING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® MultiMEG, Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
10.00
A Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
A Lanette® O
Cetearyl Alcohol
BASF SE
2.00
A Macadamia Nut Oil
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
A Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
A Beeswax
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
A Kahlwax 6290
Rhus Verniciflua Cera
Kahl GmbH & Co. KG
1.00
A Cosphaderm® E-1000 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
A Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Imwitor® 375
Glyceryl CitrateLactateLineolateOleate
IOI Oleo GmbH
2.50
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
B Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinSodium LevulinateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Juice from mixed fruits/vegetables
(e.g. cucumber, mango, lemon)
-
25.00
B Juice from mixed fruits/vegetables
(e.g. zucchini, papaya, ginger)
-
25.00
B Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
2.00
B Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
5.00
B Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT
Phytic AcidAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
Cosphaderm® MultiMEG
Glyceryl CaprylatePentylene GlycolMagnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
1.60

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A.
Phase B: Prepare Glycerin, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural and Cosphaderm® X 34 first.
Disperse Cosphaderm® X 34 with a stirrer. Peel 50 g fruit/vegetable A and 50 g fruit/vegetable B and crush it separately in a mixer. Filter the crushed fruits in separate beakers. Slowly add the filtered fruits/vegetables and the water to the mixture of Glycerin, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural and Cosphaderm® X 34 under stirring and stir until complete dissolution.
Add remaining ingredients. Heat phase A and B separately to 70 °C and add phase A to phase B under stirring.
Phase C: Add Cosphaderm® MultiMEG below 40 °C. Adjust the pH value to 5.5 ±
0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Light, shiny cream
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

GREEN DETOX MASK

100.2.2.1

MOISTURISING. DETOXIFYING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Dicapo, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Kaolin
Kaolin
-
10.00
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
8.00
A Plantacare® 818 UP
Coco Glucoside
BASF SE
3.00
A Spirulina Powder
Spirulina Platensis Powder
-
2.85
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
1.50
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40
A Titanium Dioxide
CI 77891
-
0.10
B Mango Butter
Mangifera Indica Seed Butter
-
6.00
B PolyAquol®-2W
Polyclyceryl-2-StearateGlyceryl StearateStearyl Alcohol
Innovacos
2.50
B Beeswax
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
B Ecorol® 16/98
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
2.00
B Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
0.10
C Kaolin
Kaolin
-
4.00
C Cosphaderm® EGCg ECONAT
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.05
D Cosphaderm® Dicapo
Caprylyl GlycolGlyceryl CaprylateDipropylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
0.70

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Mix all ingredients together.
Phase B: Mix phase B and heat phase A and B separately to 75 °C. Emulsify phase A+B and homogenise.
Phase C: Add phase C to phase A+B below 40 °C.
Phase D: Add Cosphaderm® Dicapo to the formulation and allow the mixture to cool down.
Adjust pH to 6.0 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Creamy, green mask
pH: 6.0 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

BLACK PEELING MASK ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.26.2.2

PURIFYING. DETOXIFYING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® CA natural, Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Kaolin
Kaolin
-
10.00
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
8.00
A Plantacare® 818 UP
Coco Glucoside
BASF SE
3.00
A Charcoal Powder
Charcoal Powder
-
2.85
A Cosphaderm® CA natural
Cinnamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
A Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinSodium LevulinateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.20
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40
B Mango Butter
Mangifera Indica Seed Butter
-
6.00
B PolyAquol®-2W
Polyclyceryl-2-StearateGlyceryl StearateStearyl Alcohol
Innovacos
2.50
B Beeswax
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
B Ecorol® 16/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
2.00
B Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
C Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
D Kaolin
Kaolin
-
5.00
D Lipo® AMS
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Meal
Vantage Speciality Ingredients, Inc.
1.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A except Cosphaderm® CA natural and
Cosphaderm® LA-T and stir for 10 min at 1500 rpm. Add Cosphaderm® CA natural and raise the pH to 11
to dissolve it completely.
Then add Cosphaderm® LA-T to lower the pH again.
Phase B: Prepare phase B and heat phase A and phase B separately to 75 °C.
Add phase B to phase A under thorough stirring with the propeller stirrer and homogenise the mixture.
Phase C: Add Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98 to phase A+B under stirring and below 40 °C.
Phase D: Prepare phase D and add it to the formulation. Let the mask cool down under moderate
stirring.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Black, creamy paste with small exfoliants
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

MOISTURISING MAGNOLIA CREAM GEL ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.13.1.1

ACTIVE AGAINST ACNE. NOURISHING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural, Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Imwitor® 375
Glyceryl CitrateLactateLineolateOleate
IOI Oleo GmbH
0.50
A Babassu Oil
Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
A Macadamia Nut Oil
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
A Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
A Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
A Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.05
B Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
23.25
C Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
3.00
C Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
4.00
C Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
5.00
C Cosphaderm® KG
Amorphophallus Konjac Root Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.80
Demin. Water
Aqua
-
54.90

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Prepare phase A and melt at 50 °C, then cool down to room temperature.
Phase B: Prepare phase B and stir for 10 min.
Phase C: Prepare all ingredients of phase C except water. Slowly add the water under stirring and stir
until complete dissolution.
Combine phase A and B and homogenise. Add phase A+B in slow steps to phase C under thorough
stirring with the propeller stirrer.
Adjust pH to 5.5 – 6.0 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Shiny, viscous emulsion
pH: 5.5 – 6.0 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

DAILY FACIAL CREAM

100.59.1.1

MOISTURISING. CARING. HYDRATING.

Preservation: Cosphagard® Pol

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
3.00
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Cosphagard® Pol
AquaSodium LevulinatePotassium Sorbate
Cosphatec GmbH
1.50
B Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
5.00
B Imwitor® 372P
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
IOI Oleo GmbH
2.50
B Witarix® 60/40
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
IOI Oleo GmbH
5.00
B Softisan® 154
Hydrogenated Palm Oil
IOI Oleo GmbH
1.00
B Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
5.00
B Ecorol® 16/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
2.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and stir until everything is completely dissolved.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients of phase B.
Heat both phases separately to 70 °C and add phase B to A while stirring very fast.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: White cream
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

Cleansing

SOFT CREAM SOAP

300.47.2.1

CLEANSING. FOAMING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Sodium LAAS, Cosphaderm® PhP

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
5.00
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT
Phytic AcidAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A U20 Carbopol® Ultrez 21 Polymer
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Lubrizol
0.40
A Cosphaderm® Sodium LAAS
Sodium LevulinateSodium Anisate
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Texapon® NSO UP
Sodium Laureth Sulfat
BASF SE
15.00
B Plantacare® 818 UP
Coco Glucoside
BASF SE
12.00
B Sunflower Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
C Cosphaderm® PhP
Phenylpropanol
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30

Manufacturing Process
This formulation can be prepared at room temperature.
Phase A: Combine all ingredients and stir until everything is completely dissolved.
Phase B: Combine phase B separately and add phase B to phase A under soft stirring. Stir until both
phases are mixed.
Phace C: Add Cosphaderm® PhP to phase A+B. Adjust th pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Transparent liquid
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

PURIFYING CLEANSING LOTION

300.32.3.1

MAKE-UP REMOVING. PURIFYING. CLEANSING.

Preservation: Cosphagard® Pol, Cosphaderm® GMCY

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
10.00
A Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
12.00
A Lanette® O
Cetearyl Alcohol
BASF SE
5.00
A Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
A Cosphaderm® GMCY
Glyceryl Caprylate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
B Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
2.00
B Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT
Phytic AcidAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Cosphagard® Pol
AquaSodium LevulinatePotassium Sorbate
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
C D-Panthenol 75 %
PanthenolAqua
-
1.00
C Ronacare® Allantoin
Allantoin
Merck KGaA
0.50

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Prepare phase A and heat to 65 °C.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients except Cosphaderm® X 34. Slowly add Cosphaderm® X 34 to phase B
under stirring.
Stir until complete dissolution. Then heat phase A and phase B separately to 65 °C. Add phase B to
phase A to emulsify both phases. Stir until the formulation is cooled down.
Phase C: Add phase C below 30 °C and stir until everything is mixed.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05 if necessary.

Specification
Appearance: White gel
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

SOOTHING 2IN1 MAKE-UP REMOVER

300.11.1.1

SOOTHING. MAKE-UP REMOVING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Hexiol, Cosphaderm® Pentiol GL

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
5.00
A Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT
Phytic AcidAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Plantacare® 2000 UP
Decyl Glucoside
BASF SE
0.30
B Cosphaderm® Hexiol
1,2-Hexanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® CHA
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.15
B Cosphaderm® Pentiol GL
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
C Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
20.00
C Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
C Oil-soluble Colour
-
q.s
C Perfume
Parfum
-
q.s.

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Mix all ingredients of phase A under slow stirring.
Phase B: Mix all ingredients of phase B until everything is completely dissolved and add B to phase A.
Adjust the pH of phase A+B to 5.5 ± 0.05.
Phase C: Mix all ingredients of phase C and add the mixture to phase A+B without stirring.

Specification
Appearance: Two-phase system with coloured oil phase on top of translucent water phase
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven

CREAMY BODY WASH ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

300.50.1.1

FOAMING. CLEANSING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Sodium LAAS, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
2.00
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.70
A Cosphaderm® Sodium LAAS
Sodium LevulinateSodium Anisate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.92
B Perlastan® SC
Sodium/Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate
Schill + Seilacher Struktol GmbH
9.50
B Plantacare® 1200 UP
Lauryl Glucoside
BASF SE
7.00
B Texapon® K 30 UP
Sodium Coco Sulfate
BASF SE
6.50
B Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
C 25 % Sodium Chloride Solution
AquaSodium Chloride
-
16.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients and stir until Cosphaderm® X 34 is completely dissolved.
Phase B: Combine phase B and add phase B to phase A under slow stirring.
Phase C: Add phase C to phase A+B to thicken the formulation.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Milky, white gel
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05.
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

Bodycare

MOISTURISING BODY YOGHURT

200.9.1.1

HIGH SPREADABILITY. LIGHT SKIN FEEL. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Dicapo

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
13.00
A Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Imwitor® 375
Glyceryl CitrateLactateLineolateOleate
IOI Oleo GmbH
0.50
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
3.00
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
B Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
B Carbopol® Ultrez-21
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Lubrizol
0.30
B Cosphaderm® Dicapo
Caprylyl GlycolGlyceryl CaprylateDipropylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
0.70

Manufacturing Process
This formulation can be prepared at room temperature.
Phase A: Mix all ingredients of phase A under stirring.
Phase B: Mix all ingredients of phase B under stirring. Add phase A into phase B and homogenise until
everything is dissolved. Adjust the pH to 6.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: White cream
pH: 6.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

SILKY SOFT LOTION

200.16.1.2

MILD. LIGHT SKIN FEEL. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Cosphaderm® Leo
Dipropylene GlycolEthylhexylglycerinCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
2.40
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
5.00
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
C Lamecreme
Glyceryl StearateGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
-
3.00
C Lanette® O
Cetearyl Alcohol
BASF SE
1.00
C Imwitor® 491
Glyceryl Monostearate
IOI Oleo GmbH
2.00
Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
20.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A.
Phase B: Slowly add Cosphaderm® X 34 to phase A under stirring and stir until complete dissolution.
Phase C: Prepare phase C and heat phase A+B and C separately to 80 °C. Add phase C to phase A+B
and homogenise the formulation.
Adjust pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: White, shiny emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

RICH & SOFT HANDCREAM ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

200.4.1.2

REGENERATING. SOFT SKIN FEEL. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® MultiMEG

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
2.00
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.25
C Lamecreme
Glyceryl StearateGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
-
2.50
C Montanov™ 68
Cetearyl AlcoholCetearyl Glycoside
SEPPIC, S.A.
2.00
C Tegomuls
Hydrogenated Palm Glyceride
-
0.50
C Ecorol® 18/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
1.00
C Beeswax
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
0.50
C Carnauba Wax
Cera Carnauba
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
C Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
C Sunflower Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
C Peach Kernel Oil
Prunus Persica Kernel Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.50
C Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
C Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
C Cosphaderm® AP
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
C Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
D Cosphaderm® MultiMEG
Glyceryl CaprylatePentylene GlycolMagnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
1.20

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Mix all ingredients together.
Phase B: Slowly add Cosphaderm® X 34 to phase A under strong stirring. Continue stirring for approx.
15 min at 500 rpm until complete dissolution. Then heat to 80 °C.
Phase C: Mix all ingredients together and heat to 80 °C.
Phase C: Add phase C to phase A+B and homogenise for approx. 1 min using Ultra-Turrax. Cool down
under medium stirring.
Phase D: Add Cosphaderm® MultiMEG below 40 °C under vigorous stirring.
Adjust pH if necessary.

Specification
Appearance: White, shiny, viscous emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

WARMING FOOTCREAM

200.36.1.1

WARMING. BOOSTING BLOOD CIRCULATION. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural, Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98, Cosphaderm® GMCY

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
3.00
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
A Urea
Urea
-
10.00
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
C Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
8.00
C Lanette® O
Cetearyl Alcohol
BASF SE
3.00
C Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
8.00
C Carnauba Wax
Cera Carnauba
Gustav Heess GmbH
5.00
C Beeswax
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
8.00
C Cosphaderm® VBE
Vanillyl Butyl Ether
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
C Cosphaderm® GMCY
Glyceryl Caprylate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.80
C Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
C Lamecreme
Glyceryl StearateGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
-
5.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A.
Phase B: Slowly add Cosphaderm® X 34 to phase A under stirring and stir until complete dissolution.
Phase C: Prepare phase C. Heat phase A+B and phase C separately to 75 °C. Then add phase C to
phase A+B while stirring and let the formulation cool down.
Adjust pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Shiny, white cream
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

Special Care

FACE CREAM FOR MEN

600.56.2.1

BOOSTING. LIGHT SKIN FEEL. HYDRATING.

Preservation: Cosphagard® Elbe, Cosphaderm® GMCY

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
9.00
A Coconut Oil
Cocos Nucifera Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
A Shea Butter
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
A Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
1.50
A Sunflower Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
A Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
A Macadamia Oil
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.50
A Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Ecorol® 16/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
1.00
A Imwitor® 372P
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
IOI Oleo GmbH
3.00
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
B Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40
B Ronacare® Allantoin
Allantoin
Merck KGaA
0.20
B Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate high
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
C Aloe Vera Powder
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
-
0.20
C D-Panthenol 75 %
PanthenolAqua
-
0.50
C Cosphaderm® GMCY
Glyceryl Caprylate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40
C Cosphagard® Elbe
AquaSodium LevulinateSodium Benzoate
Cosphatec GmbH
2.50

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and heat to 80 °C.
Phase B: Combine all of the liquid ingredients and add the powders while stirring.
Then heat to 80 °C.
Afterwards combine phase A and B and homogenise the mixture.
Phase C: Add phase C to the formulation (<40 °C) and stir.
Homogenise a second time if needed.
Adjust pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: White, shiny emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

FRESH & COOL AFTERSHAVE

600.37.1.1

COOLING. SOOTHING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® MultiMEG, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
3.00
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Ronacare® Allantoin
Allantoin
Merck KGaA
0.20
A Aristoflex® AVC
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/ VP Copolymer
Clariant AG
0.50
B Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
3.50
B Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
4.00
B Olive Oil
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
B Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B Avocado Oil
Persea Gratissima Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B Sesame Oil
Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B Carotene Oil
Glycine Soja (A)beta-carotene
-
0.05
B Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B Cocoa Butter
Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
0.20
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
B Lamecreme
Glyceryl StearateGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
-
4.00
B Camphor
Camphora RacemicaCamphora Synthetica
-
0.10
C Ethanol
Alcohol
Carl Roth GmbH & Co. KG
0.60
C Menthol
Menthol
FREY&LAU GmbH
0.70
D Cosphaderm® MultiMEG
Glyceryl CaprylatePentylene GlycolMagnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
1.60

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Add Allantoin to water and heat to 40 °C. Stir until complete dissolution. Add Glycerin and
Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural. While stirring add Cosphaderm® X 34. Stir until complete
dissolution. Then add Aristoflex® AVC and stir until complete dissolution.
Phase B: Prepare phase B and separately heat phase A and phase B to 80 °C.
Add phase B to phase A while stirring.
Phase C+D: Add phase C and D below 40 °C.
Adjust pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Yellowish cream
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

CALMING BABY CREAM ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

NATURALLY MILD. SOOTHING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® CA natural, Cosphaderm® GMCY

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
3.00
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
A Cosphaderm® CA natural
Cinnamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate high
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Sodium Hydroxide Solution (10 %)
AquaSodium Hydroxide
-
q.s.
B Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
B Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
B Argan Oil
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B PolyAquol®-2W
Polyclyceryl-2-StearateGlyceryl StearateStearyl Alcohol
Innovacos
2.50
B Ecorol® 16/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
1.00
B Beeswax
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
B Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Cosphaderm® GMCY
Glyceryl Caprylate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
C Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinSodium LevulinateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
C Citric Acid Solution (10 %)
AquaCitric Acid
-
q.s

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and raise the pH to 11 under stirring to dissolve
Cosphaderm® CA natural. Then heat phase A to 80 °C.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients and heat to 80 °C. Add then phase B to phase A under strong
stirring.
Add phase C to the finished formulation. Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: White cream
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

PROTECTIVE BABY CREAM ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

500.24.2.3

SKIN PROTECTING. SENSITIVE. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Sodium LAAS

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Babassu Oil
Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
4.00
A Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond)
Gustav Heess GmbH
12.00
A Sesame Oil
Sesamum Indicum (Sesame)
Gustav Heess GmbH
6.00
A Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
10.00
A Organic Sheabutter
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
15.00
Beeswax
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
9.00
A Lanolin
Lanolin
-
19.00
A Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
B Cosphaderm® Sodium LAAS
Sodium LevulinateSodium Anisate
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
23.50

Manufacturing Process
Combine all ingredients of phase A and B in separate beakers. Adjust the pH of the water to
5.5 ± 0.05. Then, heat both phases separately to 70 °C. Add slowly the water to phase A under
soft stirring.

Specification
Appearance: Yellowish cream
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)