Wir verstehen die Anforderungen und Fragestellungen von Kosmetik-Entwicklern. Darum verbringen wir viel Zeit mit Anwendungstechnik in unserem In-House Labor. Hier untersuchen wir die Einarbeitung und Wirkung von Rohstoffen, um unseren Kunden den bestmöglichen Support und passende Empfehlungen bieten zu können.
Ein ausgewähltes Set an Formulierungen haben wir hier zum Download bereitgestellt – viel Spaß damit!
ANTI-AGING. ANTIOXIDANT. MOISTURISING.
Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Dicapo natural, Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
| PHASE | Ingredient | Cosmos | INCI | SUPPLIER | % |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| A | Demin. Water |
Aqua
|
-
|
77.30 | |
| A | Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural |
Propanediol
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
3.00 | |
| A | Cosphaderm® X soft |
Xanthan Gum
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
0.80 | |
| A | Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate high |
Sodium Hyaluronate
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
0.10 | |
| A | Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low |
Sodium Hyaluronate
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
0.10 | |
| A | Sodium PCA |
Sodium PCA
|
-
|
0.50 | |
| A | Sodium Citrate |
Sodium Citrate
|
-
|
0.50 | |
| A | Cosphaderm® SF-75H |
Hydrogenated Lecithin
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
1.50 | |
| B | Cosphaderm® GS Connect |
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
2.00 | |
| B | Shea Butter refined |
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
|
Gustav Heess GmbH
|
2.00 | |
| B | Jojoba Oil |
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
|
Gustav Heess GmbH
|
4.00 | |
| B | MCT Oil Typ V Ph. Eur. |
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
|
Gustav Heess GmbH
|
5.00 | |
| B | Camellia Seed Oil |
Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil
|
-
|
2.00 | |
| C | Cosphaderm® Dicapo natural |
Caprylyl GlycolPropanediolGlyceryl Caprylate
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
0.70 | |
| C | Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98 |
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
0.20 | |
| D | Cosphaderm® Tocopharin |
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed OilCarnosic Acid
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
0.30 |
MANUFACTURING PROCESS
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and stir until everything is completely dissolved.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients of phase B.
Heat both phases separately to 70-75 °C and add phase B to A while stirring. Then homogenise the formulation.
Phase C: Dissolve Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98 in Cosphaderm® Dicapo natural.
Add phase C and phase D to phase A+B after cooling to 40 °C while stirring. Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.
SPECIFICATION
Appearance: Light beige, shiny emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)
HYDRATING. RADIANT. SKIN PROTECTING.
Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Sodium LAAS, Cosphaderm® GMCY, Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98
| PHASE | Ingredient | Cosmos | INCI | SUPPLIER | % |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| A | Demin. Water |
Aqua
|
-
|
70.95 | |
| A | Cosphaderm® Sodium LAAS |
Sodium LevulinateSodium Anisate
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
1.00 | |
| A | Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural |
Propanediol
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
4.00 | |
| A | Cosphaderm® X soft |
Xanthan Gum
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
0.60 | |
| B | Cosphaderm® SF-75H |
Hydrogenated Lecithin
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
0.75 | |
| C | Cosphaderm® GS Connect |
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
2.00 | |
| C | Lanette® O |
Cetearyl Alcohol
|
BASF SE
|
1.50 | |
| C | Behenyl Alcohol |
Behenyl Alcohol
|
-
|
1.00 | |
| C | Shea Butter refined |
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
|
Gustav Heess GmbH
|
5.00 | |
| C | Cosphaderm® GMCY |
Glyceryl Caprylate
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
0.30 | |
| C | Jojoba Oil |
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
|
Gustav Heess GmbH
|
3.50 | |
| C | MCT Oil Typ V Ph. Eur. |
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
|
Gustav Heess GmbH
|
5.00 | |
| C | Squalane |
Squalane
|
-
|
4.00 | |
| D | Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98 |
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
0.10 | |
| E | Cosphaderm® Tocopharin |
Carnosic AcidTocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
0.30 |
MANUFACTURING PROCESS
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and stir until everything is completely dissolved.
Phase B: Add phase B to A while stirring. Then heat the water phase to 70-75 °C.
Phase C: Combine all ingredients of phase C and heat to 75°C. Phase D is added to the oil phase just before emulsion is formed.
Add phase C+D to the water phase while stirring. Homogenise at 40°C.
Add phase E to the emulsion.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.
SPECIFICATION
Appearance: Light beige, white cream
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)
MAKE-UP REMOVING. SOOTHING. GENTLE CLEANSING.
Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Hexiol natural
| PHASE | Ingredient | Cosmos | INCI | SUPPLIER | % |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| A | Shea Butter refined |
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
|
Gustav Heess GmbH
|
25.70 | |
| A | Kahlwax 2811 |
Oryza Sativa Bran Cera
|
Kahl GmbH & Co. KG
|
8.00 | |
| A | Lanette® O |
Cetearyl Alcohol
|
BASF SE
|
20.00 | |
| A | MCT Oil Typ V Ph. Eur. |
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
|
Gustav Heess GmbH
|
10.00 | |
| A | Cetiol® OE |
Dicaprylyl Ether
|
BASF SE
|
15.00 | |
| A | Babassu Oil |
Orbignya Oleifera (Babassu) Seed Oil
|
Gustav Heess GmbH
|
10.00 | |
| B | Span™ 80 |
Sorbitan Oleate
|
Croda Inc.
|
5.00 | |
| B | Plantacare® 2000 UP |
Decyl Glucoside
|
BASF SE
|
4.00 | |
| B | Cosphaderm® Hexiol natural |
1,2-Hexanediol
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
1.50 | |
| C | Bisabolol |
Bisabolol
|
-
|
0.50 | |
| C | Cosphaderm® Tocopharin |
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed OilCarnosic Acid
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
0.30 |
Manufacturing Process
Combine all ingredients of phase A and heat to 75-80°C until everything has melted.
Then add phase B to phase A and stir until everything is homogeneous. Add phase C and fill into molds.
Specification
Appearance: Slightly yellowish balm
Stability: Microbiological stability proven (Water activity value less than 0.75)
BOOSTING. LIGHT SKIN FEEL. HYDRATING.
Preservation: Cosphagard® Elbe, Cosphaderm® GMCY
| PHASE | Ingredient | Cosmos | INCI | SUPPLIER | % |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| A | Cosphaderm® Feel |
Triheptanoin
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
9.00 | |
| A | Coconut Oil |
Cocos Nucifera Oil
|
Gustav Heess GmbH
|
2.00 | |
| A | Shea Butter |
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
|
Gustav Heess GmbH
|
2.50 | |
| A | Almond Oil |
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
|
|
1.50 | |
| A | Sunflower Oil |
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
|
Gustav Heess GmbH
|
2.00 | |
| A | Jojoba Oil |
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
|
Gustav Heess GmbH
|
2.50 | |
| A | Macadamia Oil |
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
|
Gustav Heess GmbH
|
1.50 | |
| A | Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO |
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
0.10 | |
| A | Ecorol® 16/98 P |
Cetyl Alcohol
|
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
|
1.00 | |
| A | Cosphaderm® GS Connect |
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
3.00 | |
| B | Demin. Water |
Aqua
|
-
|
ad 100 | |
| B | Glycerin |
Glycerin
|
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
|
1.00 | |
| B | Cosphaderm® X 34 |
Xanthan Gum
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
0.40 | |
| B | Ronacare® Allantoin |
Allantoin
|
Merck KGaA
|
0.20 | |
| B | Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low |
Sodium Hyaluronate
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
0.10 | |
| B | Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate high |
Sodium Hyaluronate
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
0.20 | |
| C | Aloe Vera Powder |
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
|
-
|
0.20 | |
| C | D-Panthenol 75 % |
PanthenolAqua
|
-
|
0.50 | |
| C | Cosphaderm® GMCY |
Glyceryl Caprylate
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
0.40 | |
| C | Cosphagard® Elbe |
AquaSodium LevulinateSodium Benzoate
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
2.50 |
Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and heat to 80 °C.
Phase B: Combine all of the liquid ingredients and add the powders while stirring.
Then heat to 80 °C.
Afterwards combine phase A and B and homogenise the mixture.
Phase C: Add phase C to the formulation (<40 °C) and stir.
Homogenise a second time if needed.
Adjust pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.
Specification
Appearance: White, shiny emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)
VEGAN. SATIN-SOFT FINISH. NOURISHING.
Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® MultiMEG
| PHASE | Ingredient | Cosmos | INCI | SUPPLIER | % |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| A | Shea Butter refined |
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
|
Gustav Heess GmbH
|
9.90 | |
| A | Carnauba Wax |
Copernicia Cerifera Cera
|
Gustav Heess GmbH
|
6.00 | |
| A | Kahlwax 6290 |
Rhus Verniciflua Cera
|
Kahl GmbH & Co. KG
|
4.00 | |
| A | Kahlwax 6607L |
Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera
|
Kahl GmbH & Co. KG
|
10.00 | |
| A | MCT Oil Typ V Ph. Eur. |
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
|
Gustav Heess GmbH
|
17.00 | |
| A | Octyldodecanol |
Octyldodecanol
|
-
|
15.00 | |
| B | Castor Oil |
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
|
Gustav Heess GmbH
|
20.00 | |
| B | Cosphaderm® MultiMEG |
Glyceryl CaprylatePentylene GlycolMagnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
0.80 | |
| B | Unipure Red LC 381 |
CI 77491
|
SENSIENT BEAUTY
|
6.00 | |
| B | Zinc Oxide |
CI 77947
|
-
|
5.00 | |
| B | Unipure Yellow LC 182 |
CI 77492
|
SENSIENT BEAUTY
|
1.00 | |
| B | Cosphaderm® Tocopharin |
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed OilCarnosic Acid
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
0.30 | |
| C | CORN PO4 PH "B“ |
Distarch Phosphate
|
Agrana
|
5.00 |
MANUFACTURING PROCESS
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and heat to 80-85°C until everything is melted.
Phase B: Disperse phase B. Then add phase B to phase A.
Phase C: Add phase C to the finished formulation and melt again.
Pour into molds.
SPECIFICATION
Appearance: Red stick
Stability: Microbiological stability proven (Water activity value less than 0.75)
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