Wir verstehen die Anforderungen und Fragestellungen von Kosmetik-Entwicklern. Darum verbringen wir viel Zeit mit Anwendungstechnik in unserem In-House Labor. Hier untersuchen wir die Einarbeitung und Wirkung von Rohstoffen, um unseren Kunden den bestmöglichen Support und passende Empfehlungen bieten zu können.
Ein ausgewähltes Set an Formulierungen haben wir hier zum Download bereitgestellt – viel Spaß damit!
HYDRATING. NOURISHING. SKIN BARRIER ENHANCING.
Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Absolute, Cosphaderm® GMCY, Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98
| PHASE | Ingredient | Cosmos | INCI | SUPPLIER | % |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| A | Demin. Water |
Aqua
|
-
|
53.70 | |
| A | Cosphaderm® X soft |
Xanthan Gum
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
0.60 | |
| B | Cosphaderm® Absolute |
PropanediolSodium LactateBetaineAqua
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
20.00 | |
| C | Cosphaderm® SF-75H |
Hydrogenated Lecithin
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
1.00 | |
| D | Cosphaderm® GS Connect |
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
2.00 | |
| D | Lanette® O |
Cetearyl Alcohol
|
BASF SE
|
2.00 | |
| D | Behenyl Alcohol |
Behenyl Alcohol
|
-
|
2.50 | |
| D | Shea Butter refined |
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
|
Gustav Heess GmbH
|
5.00 | |
| D | Cosphaderm® GMCY |
Glyceryl Caprylate
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
0.30 | |
| D | Jojoba Oil |
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
|
Gustav Heess GmbH
|
3.50 | |
| D | MCT Oil Typ V Ph. Eur. |
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
|
Gustav Heess GmbH
|
5.00 | |
| D | Squalane |
Squalane
|
-
|
4.00 | |
| D | Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO |
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
0.20 | |
| E | Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98 |
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
0.20 |
MANUFACTURING PROCESS
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and stir until everything is completely dissolved.
Phase B: Add phase B to A while stirring.
Phase C: Add phase C to the water phase while stirring. Then heat the water phase to 70-75 °C.
Phase D: Combine all ingredients of phase D and heat to 75°C. Phase E is added to the oil phase just before emulsion is formed.
Add phase D+E to the water phase while stirring. Homogenise at 40°C.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.
SPECIFICATION
Appearance: Light beige cream
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)
FIZZY. SOOTHING. RELAXING.
Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® GMCY
| PHASE | Ingredient | Cosmos | INCI | SUPPLIER | % |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| A | Sodium Bicarbonate |
Sodium Bicarbonate
|
-
|
42.00 | |
| A | Citric Acid |
Citric Acid
|
-
|
21.00 | |
| A | Corn Starch |
Zea Mays Starch
|
-
|
20.00 | |
| A | Cosphaderm® X 34 |
Xanthan Gum
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
0.20 | |
| A | BergaSoft SCI 80 |
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate
|
Berg + Schmidt GmbH & Co. KG
|
2.50 | |
| B | Cosphaderm® GMCY |
Glyceryl Caprylate
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
0.80 | |
| B | Coconut Oil |
Coco Nucifera Oil
|
Gustav Heess GmbH
|
13.50 |
Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A.
Phase B: Melt all ingredients of phase B (35-40°C) and add to phase A. Mix until everything is homogeneous.
Press mixture into molds.
Specification
Appearance: Solid, white bar
Stability: Microbiological stability proven (Water activity value less than 0.75)
MAKE-UP REMOVING. PURIFYING. CLEANSING.
Preservation: Cosphagard® Pol, Cosphaderm® GMCY
| PHASE | Ingredient | Cosmos | INCI | SUPPLIER | % |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| A | Cosphaderm® Feel |
Triheptanoin
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
10.00 | |
| A | Almond Oil |
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
|
Gustav Heess GmbH
|
12.00 | |
| A | Lanette® O |
Cetearyl Alcohol
|
BASF SE
|
5.00 | |
| A | Cosphaderm® SF-75H |
Hydrogenated Lecithin
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
2.00 | |
| A | Cosphaderm® GMCY |
Glyceryl Caprylate
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
0.30 | |
| B | Demin. Water |
Aqua
|
-
|
ad 100 | |
| B | Glycerin |
Glycerin
|
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
|
2.00 | |
| B | Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT |
Phytic AcidAqua
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
0.20 | |
| B | Cosphagard® Pol |
AquaSodium LevulinatePotassium Sorbate
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
2.00 | |
| B | Cosphaderm® X 34 |
Xanthan Gum
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
0.50 | |
| C | D-Panthenol 75 % |
PanthenolAqua
|
-
|
1.00 | |
| C | Ronacare® Allantoin |
Allantoin
|
Merck KGaA
|
0.50 |
Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Prepare phase A and heat to 65 °C.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients except Cosphaderm® X 34. Slowly add Cosphaderm® X 34 to phase B
under stirring.
Stir until complete dissolution. Then heat phase A and phase B separately to 65 °C. Add phase B to
phase A to emulsify both phases. Stir until the formulation is cooled down.
Phase C: Add phase C below 30 °C and stir until everything is mixed.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05 if necessary.
Specification
Appearance: White gel
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)
VEGAN. REFRESHING. NOURISHING.
Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® GMCY, Cosphaderm® Zinc Lactate natural
| PHASE | Ingredient | Cosmos | INCI | SUPPLIER | % |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| A | Ecorol® 16/98 P |
Cetyl Alcohol
|
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
|
10.50 | |
| A | Candellila Wax |
Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax
|
-
|
7.20 | |
| A | Shea Butter refined |
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
|
Gustav Heess GmbH
|
10.00 | |
| A | Cocoa Butter |
Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter
|
Gustav Heess GmbH
|
10.00 | |
| A | MCT Oil Typ V Ph. Eur. |
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
|
Gustav Heess GmbH
|
17.50 | |
| A | Almond Oil |
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
|
Gustav Heess GmbH
|
4.00 | |
| A | Cosphaderm® GMCY |
Glyceryl Caprylate
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
1.00 | |
| B | Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO |
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
0.30 | |
| B | Cosphaderm® Zinc Lactate natural |
Zinc Lactate
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
2.00 | |
| B | Sodium Bicarbonate |
Sodium Bicarbonate
|
-
|
8.00 | |
| B | Corn Starch |
Zea Mays Starch
|
-
|
29.50 |
MANUFACTURING PROCESS
Combine all ingredients of phase A, heating to 75 °C. When everything has melted, add phase B. Take off heat and fill into packaging.
SPECIFICATION
Appearance: Solid, yellowish balm
Stability: Microbiological stability proven (Water activity value less than 0.75)
WARMING. BOOSTING BLOOD CIRCULATION. NOURISHING.
Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural, Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98, Cosphaderm® GMCY
| PHASE | Ingredient | Cosmos | INCI | SUPPLIER | % |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| A | Demin. Water |
Aqua
|
-
|
45.10 | |
| A | Glycerin |
Glycerin
|
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
|
3.00 | |
| A | Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural |
Propanediol
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
3.00 | |
| A | Urea |
Urea
|
-
|
10.00 | |
| A | Cosphaderm® X 34 |
Xanthan Gum
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
0.30 | |
| B | Cosphaderm® Feel |
Triheptanoin
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
8.00 | |
| B | Lanette® O |
Cetearyl Alcohol
|
BASF SE
|
3.00 | |
| B | Shea Butter refined |
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
|
Gustav Heess GmbH
|
8.00 | |
| B | Carnauba Wax |
Copernicia Cerifera Cera
|
Gustav Heess GmbH
|
5.00 | |
| B | Beeswax |
Cera alba
|
Gustav Heess GmbH
|
8.00 | |
| B | Cosphaderm® VBE |
Vanillyl Butyl Ether
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
0.50 | |
| B | Cosphaderm® GMCY |
Glyceryl Caprylate
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
0.80 | |
| B | Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98 |
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
0.30 | |
| B | Lamecreme |
Glyceryl StearateGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
|
-
|
5.00 |
Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A. Slowly add Cosphaderm® X 34 to phase A and stir until completely dissolved.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients of phase B. Heat both phases separately to 80-82 °C.
Add then phase B to phase A under strong stirring and homogenise the formulation.
Adjust pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.
Specification
Appearance: Shiny, white cream
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)
BOOSTING. LIGHT SKIN FEEL. HYDRATING.
Preservation: Cosphagard® Elbe, Cosphaderm® GMCY
| PHASE | Ingredient | Cosmos | INCI | SUPPLIER | % |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| A | Cosphaderm® Feel |
Triheptanoin
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
9.00 | |
| A | Coconut Oil |
Cocos Nucifera Oil
|
Gustav Heess GmbH
|
2.00 | |
| A | Shea Butter |
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
|
Gustav Heess GmbH
|
2.50 | |
| A | Almond Oil |
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
|
|
1.50 | |
| A | Sunflower Oil |
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
|
Gustav Heess GmbH
|
2.00 | |
| A | Jojoba Oil |
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
|
Gustav Heess GmbH
|
2.50 | |
| A | Macadamia Oil |
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
|
Gustav Heess GmbH
|
1.50 | |
| A | Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO |
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
0.10 | |
| A | Ecorol® 16/98 P |
Cetyl Alcohol
|
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
|
1.00 | |
| A | Cosphaderm® GS Connect |
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
3.00 | |
| B | Demin. Water |
Aqua
|
-
|
ad 100 | |
| B | Glycerin |
Glycerin
|
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
|
1.00 | |
| B | Cosphaderm® X 34 |
Xanthan Gum
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
0.40 | |
| B | Ronacare® Allantoin |
Allantoin
|
Merck KGaA
|
0.20 | |
| B | Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low |
Sodium Hyaluronate
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
0.10 | |
| B | Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate high |
Sodium Hyaluronate
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
0.20 | |
| C | Aloe Vera Powder |
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
|
-
|
0.20 | |
| C | D-Panthenol 75 % |
PanthenolAqua
|
-
|
0.50 | |
| C | Cosphaderm® GMCY |
Glyceryl Caprylate
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
0.40 | |
| C | Cosphagard® Elbe |
AquaSodium LevulinateSodium Benzoate
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
2.50 |
Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and heat to 80 °C.
Phase B: Combine all of the liquid ingredients and add the powders while stirring.
Then heat to 80 °C.
Afterwards combine phase A and B and homogenise the mixture.
Phase C: Add phase C to the formulation (<40 °C) and stir.
Homogenise a second time if needed.
Adjust pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.
Specification
Appearance: White, shiny emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)
NATURALLY MILD. SOOTHING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.
Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® CA natural, Cosphaderm® GMCY
| PHASE | Ingredient | Cosmos | INCI | SUPPLIER | % |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| A | Demin. Water |
Aqua
|
-
|
ad 100 | |
| A | Glycerin |
Glycerin
|
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
|
3.00 | |
| A | Cosphaderm® X 34 |
Xanthan Gum
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
0.30 | |
| A |
Cinnamic Acid
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
0.20 | ||
| A | Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate high |
Sodium Hyaluronate
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
0.20 | |
| A | Sodium Hydroxide Solution (10 %) |
AquaSodium Hydroxide
|
-
|
q.s. | |
| B | Cosphaderm® SF-75H |
Hydrogenated Lecithin
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
2.00 | |
| B | Shea Butter refined |
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
|
Gustav Heess GmbH
|
3.00 | |
| B | Argan Oil |
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
|
Gustav Heess GmbH
|
2.00 | |
| B | PolyAquol®-2W |
Polyglyceryl-2 StearateGlyceryl StearateStearyl Alcohol
|
Innovacos
|
2.50 | |
| B | Ecorol® 16/98 P |
Cetyl Alcohol
|
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
|
1.00 | |
| B | Beeswax |
Cera alba
|
Gustav Heess GmbH
|
2.50 | |
| B | Cosphaderm® Feel |
Triheptanoin
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
1.00 | |
| B | Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO |
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
0.10 | |
| B | Cosphaderm® GMCY |
Glyceryl Caprylate
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
0.50 | |
| C | Cosphaderm® LA-T |
Levulinic AcidGlycerinSodium LevulinateAqua
|
Cosphatec GmbH
|
1.00 | |
| C | Citric Acid Solution (10 %) |
AquaCitric Acid
|
-
|
q.s |
Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and raise the pH to 11 under stirring to dissolve
Cosphaderm® CA natural. Then heat phase A to 80 °C.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients and heat to 80 °C. Add then phase B to phase A under strong
stirring.
Add phase C to the finished formulation. Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.
Specification
Appearance: White cream
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)