FORMULIERUNGEN

MODERNE KOSMETIK FÜR ANSPRUCHSVOLLE ENTWICKLER

Wir verstehen die Anforderungen und Fragestellungen von Kosmetik-Entwicklern. Darum verbringen wir viel Zeit mit Anwendungstechnik in unserem In-House Labor. Hier untersuchen wir die Einarbeitung und Wirkung von Rohstoffen, um unseren Kunden den bestmöglichen Support und passende Empfehlungen bieten zu können.

Ein ausgewähltes Set an Formulierungen haben wir hier zum Download bereitgestellt – viel Spaß damit!

FaceCare

SKIN SMOOTHIE ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.17.2.1

VITAMIN-RICH. VITALISING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® MultiMEG, Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
10.00
A Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
A Lanette® O
Cetearyl Alcohol
BASF SE
2.00
A Macadamia Nut Oil
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
A Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
A Beeswax
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
A Kahlwax 6290
Rhus Verniciflua Cera
Kahl GmbH & Co. KG
1.00
A Cosphaderm® E-1000 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
A Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Imwitor® 375
Glyceryl CitrateLactateLineolateOleate
IOI Oleo GmbH
2.50
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
B Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinSodium LevulinateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Juice from mixed fruits/vegetables
(e.g. cucumber, mango, lemon)
-
25.00
B Juice from mixed fruits/vegetables
(e.g. zucchini, papaya, ginger)
-
25.00
B Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
2.00
B Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
5.00
B Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT
Phytic AcidAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
Cosphaderm® MultiMEG
Glyceryl CaprylatePentylene GlycolMagnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
1.60

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A.
Phase B: Prepare Glycerin, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural and Cosphaderm® X 34 first.
Disperse Cosphaderm® X 34 with a stirrer. Peel 50 g fruit/vegetable A and 50 g fruit/vegetable B and crush it separately in a mixer. Filter the crushed fruits in separate beakers. Slowly add the filtered fruits/vegetables and the water to the mixture of Glycerin, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural and Cosphaderm® X 34 under stirring and stir until complete dissolution.
Add remaining ingredients. Heat phase A and B separately to 70 °C and add phase A to phase B under stirring.
Phase C: Add Cosphaderm® MultiMEG below 40 °C. Adjust the pH value to 5.5 ±
0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Light, shiny cream
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

BLACK PEELING MASK ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.26.2.2

PURIFYING. DETOXIFYING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® CA natural, Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Kaolin
Kaolin
-
10.00
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
8.00
A Plantacare® 818 UP
Coco Glucoside
BASF SE
3.00
A Charcoal Powder
Charcoal Powder
-
2.85
A Cosphaderm® CA natural
Cinnamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
A Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinSodium LevulinateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.20
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40
B Mango Butter
Mangifera Indica Seed Butter
-
6.00
B PolyAquol®-2W
Polyclyceryl-2-StearateGlyceryl StearateStearyl Alcohol
Innovacos
2.50
B Beeswax
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
B Ecorol® 16/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
2.00
B Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
C Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
D Kaolin
Kaolin
-
5.00
D Lipo® AMS
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Meal
Vantage Speciality Ingredients, Inc.
1.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A except Cosphaderm® CA natural and
Cosphaderm® LA-T and stir for 10 min at 1500 rpm. Add Cosphaderm® CA natural and raise the pH to 11
to dissolve it completely.
Then add Cosphaderm® LA-T to lower the pH again.
Phase B: Prepare phase B and heat phase A and phase B separately to 75 °C.
Add phase B to phase A under thorough stirring with the propeller stirrer and homogenise the mixture.
Phase C: Add Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98 to phase A+B under stirring and below 40 °C.
Phase D: Prepare phase D and add it to the formulation. Let the mask cool down under moderate
stirring.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Black, creamy paste with small exfoliants
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

VITALISING SKIN GEL ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.28.2.1

QUICKLY ABSORBING. RICH SKIN FEEL. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® Sodium pAS natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
4.00
A Cosphaderm® X soft
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Demin. Water
Aqua
Cremer GmbH
59.70
A Cosphaderm® pAS natural
Sodium Anisate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40
B Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinSodium LevulinateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.20
C Demin. Water
Aqua
-
22.50
C Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
3.50
C Sunflower Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
5.00
C Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Prepare phase A and stir until everything is completely dissolved.
Phase B: Add very slowly Cosphaderm® LA-T to phase A under stirring.
Phase C: Prepare phase C and homogenise for 5 minutes with high performance disperser
(stator/rotor) at max. speed.
Add phase C to phase A+B in small steps under stirring.
Adjust pH value to 5.5 ± 0.5.

Specification
Appearance: Shiny emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

AFTER-SUN GEL

100.54.2.1

COOLING. STRESS-RELIEVING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® CA natural, Cosphaderm® Pentiol GL

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Cosphaderm® X soft
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
5.00
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A D-Panthenol 75 %
PanthenolAqua
-
1.00
A Cosphaderm® Pentiol GL
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
B Cosphaderm® CA natural
Cinnamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Witch Hazel Water
Hamamelis virginiana water
-
10.00
Ronacare® Allantoin
Allantoin
Merck KGaA
0.20
B Aloe Vera Powder
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
-
0.50
B Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinSodium LevulinateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and mix with a stirring rod, then set aside.
Phase B: Add Cosphaderm® CA natural, witch hazel water, allantoin and aloe vera powder to the water
and increase the pH value to 9 – 10. Stir until the powder has dissolved completely. Afterwards, add
Cosphaderm® LA-T to the mixture.
Add phase B to phase A and stir until a slightly viscous gel is formed.
Adjust pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Yellowish, clear, slightly viscous gel
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

Cleansing

GENTLE SKIN PERFECTING SCRUB ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

300.15.3.1

MILD. NATURALLY ACTIVE AGAINST ACNE. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® Sodium pAS natural, Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
4.00
A Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT
Phytic AcidAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Cosphaderm® Sodium pAS natural
Sodium Anisate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinSodium LevulinateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
A Cosphagard® SA natural
Salicylic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
A Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
C Perlastan® SC
Disodium/Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate
Schill + Seilacher Struktol GmbH
10.30
C Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.05
C Plantacare® 1200 UP
Lauryl Glucoside
BASF SE
6.60
D WorléeBeads
Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil
Worlée-Chemie GmbH
1.50

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients and stir until everything is completely dissolved.
Phase B: Add Cosphaderm® X 34 to phase A and stir with the propeller stirrer.
Phase C: Combine all ingredients of phase C separately. Add then phase C to phase A+B.
Phase D: Add the last phase to the finished formulation. Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Translucent gel with small peeling beads
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

SOFT FACE CLEANSER

300.14.1.2

MILDLY CLEANSING. SENSITIVE. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural, Cosphaderm® LA-T

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
4.35
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
5.00
A Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinSodium LevulinateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
A Cosphaderm® CHA
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.15
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
C Plantacare® 818 UP
Coco Glucoside
BASF SE
10.00
C Plantacare® 2000 UP
Decyl Glucoside
BASF SE
4.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Mix all ingredients except Cosphaderm® CHA. Add Cosphaderm® CHA while stirring, then
heat mixture to 70 °C. Stir phase A until complete dissolution.
Phase B: Slowly add Cosphaderm® X 34 to phase A while stirring.
Phase C: Mix phase C and add to phase A+B while carefully stirring to prevent foaming.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Transparent gel
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

ANTI-DANDRUFF SHAMPOO ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

400.62.1.1

CLEANSING. FOAMING. NATURALLY ACTIVE AGAINST DANDRUFF.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® Sodium pAS natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Sodium Coco Sulfat 30 %
AquaSodium Coco Sulfate
-
30.00
A Plantacare® 12000 UP
Lauryl Glucoside
BASF SE
4.00
A Dehyton® K
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
BASF SE
2.00
A SOFTISAN® conditionHAIR
PCA Glyceryl Oleate
IOI Oleo GmbH
1.00
A Cosphagard® SA natural
Salicylic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
A Sodium Hydroxide Solution (10 %)
AquaSodium Hydroxide
-
q.s.
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
B Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT
Phytic AcidAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Cosphaderm® Sodium pAS natural
p-Anisic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinSodium LevulinateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
C NaCl-Solution 25 %
AquaSodium Chloride
-
3.00
C Citric Acid Solution (10 %)
AquaCitric Acid
-
q.s.

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A. Raise the pH to 11 to dissolve Cosphagard® SA natural.
Heat phase A to 70 °C.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients and stir until Cosphaderm® X 34 is completely dissolved.
Heat phase B to 70 °C.
Add phase B to phase A under very soft stirring.
Phase C: Add phase C below 40 °C to the finished formulation. Adjust the pH to 4.5 ± 0.05.
The shampoo will thicken within 24 hours.

Specification
Appearance: Clear to yellowish liquid
pH: 4.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

Special Care

CALMING BABY CREAM ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

NATURALLY MILD. SOOTHING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® CA natural, Cosphaderm® GMCY

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
3.00
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
A Cosphaderm® CA natural
Cinnamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate high
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Sodium Hydroxide Solution (10 %)
AquaSodium Hydroxide
-
q.s.
B Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
B Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
B Argan Oil
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B PolyAquol®-2W
Polyclyceryl-2-StearateGlyceryl StearateStearyl Alcohol
Innovacos
2.50
B Ecorol® 16/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
1.00
B Beeswax
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
B Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Cosphaderm® GMCY
Glyceryl Caprylate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
C Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinSodium LevulinateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
C Citric Acid Solution (10 %)
AquaCitric Acid
-
q.s

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and raise the pH to 11 under stirring to dissolve
Cosphaderm® CA natural. Then heat phase A to 80 °C.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients and heat to 80 °C. Add then phase B to phase A under strong
stirring.
Add phase C to the finished formulation. Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: White cream
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)