FORMULATIONS

MODERN COSMETICS FOR AMBITIOUS FORMULATORS

We understand the requirements and issues of cosmetic formulators. That’s why we spend a lot of time with application technology in our in-house laboratory. Here we investigate the incorporation and effect of raw materials in order to offer our customers the best possible support and appropriate recommendations.

We have provided a selected set of formulations for you to download here – enjoy!

FaceCare

SKIN SMOOTHIE ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.17.2.1

VITAMIN-RICH. VITALISING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® MultiMEG, Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
10.00
A Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
A Lanette® O
Cetearyl Alcohol
BASF SE
2.00
A Macadamia Nut Oil
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
A Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
A Beeswax
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
A Kahlwax 6290
Rhus Verniciflua Cera
Kahl GmbH & Co. KG
1.00
A Cosphaderm® E-1000 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
A Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Imwitor® 375
Glyceryl CitrateLactateLineolateOleate
IOI Oleo GmbH
2.50
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
B Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinAqua, Sodium Levulinate, Potassium SorbateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Juice from mixed fruits/vegetables
(e.g. cucumber, mango, lemon)
-
25.00
B Juice from mixed fruits/vegetables
(e.g. zucchini, papaya, ginger)
-
25.00
B Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
2.00
B Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
5.00
B Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT
Phytic AcidAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
Cosphaderm® MultiMEG
Glyceryl CaprylatePentylene GlycolMagnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
1.60

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A.
Phase B: Prepare Glycerin, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural and Cosphaderm® X 34 first.
Disperse Cosphaderm® X 34 with a stirrer. Peel 50 g fruit/vegetable A and 50 g fruit/vegetable B and crush it separately in a mixer. Filter the crushed fruits in separate beakers. Slowly add the filtered fruits/vegetables and the water to the mixture of Glycerin, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural and Cosphaderm® X 34 under stirring and stir until complete dissolution.
Add remaining ingredients. Heat phase A and B separately to 70 °C and add phase A to phase B under stirring.
Phase C: Add Cosphaderm® MultiMEG below 40 °C. Adjust the pH value to 5.5 ±
0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Light, shiny cream
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

BLACK PEELING MASK ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.26.2.2

PURIFYING. DETOXIFYING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® CA natural, Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Kaolin
Kaolin
-
10.00
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
8.00
A Plantacare® 818 UP
Coco Glucoside
BASF SE
3.00
A Charcoal Powder
Charcoal Powder
-
2.85
A Cosphaderm® CA natural
Cinnamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
A Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinAqua, Sodium Levulinate, Potassium SorbateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.20
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40
B Mango Butter
Mangifera Indica Seed Butter
-
6.00
B PolyAquol®-2W
Polyclyceryl-2-StearateGlyceryl StearateStearyl Alcohol
Innovacos
2.50
B Beeswax
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
B Ecorol® 16/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
2.00
B Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
C Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
D Kaolin
Kaolin
-
5.00
D Lipo® AMS
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Meal
Vantage Speciality Ingredients, Inc.
1.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A except Cosphaderm® CA natural and
Cosphaderm® LA-T and stir for 10 min at 1500 rpm. Add Cosphaderm® CA natural and raise the pH to 11
to dissolve it completely.
Then add Cosphaderm® LA-T to lower the pH again.
Phase B: Prepare phase B and heat phase A and phase B separately to 75 °C.
Add phase B to phase A under thorough stirring with the propeller stirrer and homogenise the mixture.
Phase C: Add Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98 to phase A+B under stirring and below 40 °C.
Phase D: Prepare phase D and add it to the formulation. Let the mask cool down under moderate
stirring.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Black, creamy paste with small exfoliants
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

AFTER-SUN GEL

100.54.2.1

COOLING. STRESS-RELIEVING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® CA natural, Cosphaderm® Pentiol GL

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Cosphaderm® X soft
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
5.00
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A D-Panthenol 75 %
PanthenolAqua
-
1.00
A Cosphaderm® Pentiol GL
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
B Cosphaderm® CA natural
Cinnamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Witch Hazel Water
Hamamelis virginiana water
-
10.00
Ronacare® Allantoin
Allantoin
Merck KGaA
0.20
B Aloe Vera Powder
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
-
0.50
B Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinAqua, Sodium Levulinate, Potassium SorbateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and mix with a stirring rod, then set aside.
Phase B: Add Cosphaderm® CA natural, witch hazel water, allantoin and aloe vera powder to the water
and increase the pH value to 9 – 10. Stir until the powder has dissolved completely. Afterwards, add
Cosphaderm® LA-T to the mixture.
Add phase B to phase A and stir until a slightly viscous gel is formed.
Adjust pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Yellowish, clear, slightly viscous gel
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

Cleansing

SOFT FACE CLEANSER

300.14.1.2

MILDLY CLEANSING. SENSITIVE. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural, Cosphaderm® LA-T

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
4.35
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
5.00
A Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinAqua, Sodium Levulinate, Potassium SorbateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
A Cosphaderm® CHA
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.15
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
C Plantacare® 818 UP
Coco Glucoside
BASF SE
10.00
C Plantacare® 2000 UP
Decyl Glucoside
BASF SE
4.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Mix all ingredients except Cosphaderm® CHA. Add Cosphaderm® CHA while stirring, then
heat mixture to 70 °C. Stir phase A until complete dissolution.
Phase B: Slowly add Cosphaderm® X 34 to phase A while stirring.
Phase C: Mix phase C and add to phase A+B while carefully stirring to prevent foaming.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Transparent gel
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

ANTI-DANDRUFF SHAMPOO ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

400.62.1.1

CLEANSING. FOAMING. NATURALLY ACTIVE AGAINST DANDRUFF.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® Sodium pAS natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Sodium Coco Sulfat 30 %
AquaSodium Coco Sulfate
-
30.00
A Plantacare® 12000 UP
Lauryl Glucoside
BASF SE
4.00
A Dehyton® K
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
BASF SE
2.00
A SOFTISAN® conditionHAIR
PCA Glyceryl Oleate
IOI Oleo GmbH
1.00
A Cosphagard® SA natural
Salicylic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
A Sodium Hydroxide Solution (10 %)
AquaAqua, Sodium Hydroxide
-
q.s.
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
B Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT
Phytic AcidAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Cosphaderm® Sodium pAS natural
p-Anisic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinAqua, Sodium Levulinate, Potassium SorbateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
C NaCl-Solution 25 %
AquaAqua, Sodium Chloride
-
3.00
C Citric Acid Solution (10 %)
AquaAqua, Citric Acid
-
q.s.

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A. Raise the pH to 11 to dissolve Cosphagard® SA natural.
Heat phase A to 70 °C.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients and stir until Cosphaderm® X 34 is completely dissolved.
Heat phase B to 70 °C.
Add phase B to phase A under very soft stirring.
Phase C: Add phase C below 40 °C to the finished formulation. Adjust the pH to 4.5 ± 0.05.
The shampoo will thicken within 24 hours.

Specification
Appearance: Clear to yellowish liquid
pH: 4.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

Special Care

CALMING BABY CREAM ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

NATURALLY MILD. SOOTHING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® CA natural, Cosphaderm® GMCY

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
3.00
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
A Cosphaderm® CA natural
Cinnamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate high
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Sodium Hydroxide Solution (10 %)
AquaAqua, Sodium Hydroxide
-
q.s.
B Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
B Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
B Argan Oil
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B PolyAquol®-2W
Polyclyceryl-2-StearateGlyceryl StearateStearyl Alcohol
Innovacos
2.50
B Ecorol® 16/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
1.00
B Beeswax
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
B Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Cosphaderm® GMCY
Glyceryl Caprylate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
C Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinAqua, Sodium Levulinate, Potassium SorbateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
C Citric Acid Solution (10 %)
AquaAqua, Citric Acid
-
q.s

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and raise the pH to 11 under stirring to dissolve
Cosphaderm® CA natural. Then heat phase A to 80 °C.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients and heat to 80 °C. Add then phase B to phase A under strong
stirring.
Add phase C to the finished formulation. Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: White cream
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)