FORMULATIONS

MODERN COSMETICS FOR AMBITIOUS FORMULATORS

We understand the requirements and issues of cosmetic formulators. That’s why we spend a lot of time with application technology in our in-house laboratory. Here we investigate the incorporation and effect of raw materials in order to offer our customers the best possible support and appropriate recommendations.

We have provided a selected set of formulations for you to download here – enjoy!

FaceCare

AFTER-SUN GEL

100.54.2.1

COOLING. STRESS-RELIEVING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® Pentiol GL

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
78.40
A Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
5.00
A Cinnamic Acid
Cinnamic Acid
-
0.20
A Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinSodium LevulinateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® X soft
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
B Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B D-Panthenol 75 %
PanthenolAqua
-
1.00
B Cosphaderm® Pentiol GL
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
B Witch Hazel Water
Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Water
-
10.00
B Ronacare® Allantoin
Allantoin
Merck KGaA
0.20
B Aloe Vera Powder
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
-
0.50

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and mix with a stirring rod, then set aside.
Phase B: Add Cosphaderm® CA natural, witch hazel water, allantoin and aloe vera powder to the water
and increase the pH value to 9 – 10. Stir until the powder has dissolved completely. Afterwards, add
Cosphaderm® LA-T to the mixture.
Add phase B to phase A and stir until a slightly viscous gel is formed.
Adjust pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Yellowish, clear, slightly viscous gel
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

VITALISING SKIN GEL (A) ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.28.2.1

QUICKLY ABSORBING. RICH SKIN FEEL. HYDRATING.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® Sodium pAS natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
4.00
A Cosphaderm® X soft
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
59.70
A Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinSodium LevulinateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.20
B Cosphaderm® Sodium pAS natural
Sodium Anisate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40
C Demin. Water
Aqua
-
22.50
C Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
3.50
C Sunflower Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
5.00
C Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Prepare phase A and stir until everything is completely dissolved. Adjust pH value to 5.5.
Phase B: Add Cosphaderm® Sodium pAS natural to phase A under stirring.
Phase C: Prepare phase C and homogenise for 5 minutes with high performance disperser (stator/rotor) at max. speed.
Add phase C to phase A+B in small steps under stirring.
Adjust pH value to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Shiny emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

VITALISING SKIN GEL (B) ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.28.3.1

QUICKLY ABSORBING. RICH SKIN FEEL. HYDRATING.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® pAS natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
4.00
A Cosphaderm® X soft
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
59.70
A Cosphaderm® pAS natural
p-Anisic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40
A Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinSodium LevulinateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.20
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
22.50
B Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
3.50
B Sunflower Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
5.00
B Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Prepare phase A. Raise the pH to 10 to dissolve Cosphaderm® pAS natural and stir until everything is completely dissolved.
Afterwards, adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05 by adding Citric Acid.
Phase B: Prepare phase C and homogenise for 5 minutes with high performance disperser (stator/rotor) at max. speed.
Add phase B to phase A in small steps under stirring.
Adjust pH value to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Shiny emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

VITALISING SKIN GEL (C)

100.28.4.1

QUICKLY ABSORBING. RICH SKIN FEEL. HYDRATING.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® AS

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
4.00
A Cosphaderm® X soft
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
59.70
A Cosphaderm® AS
p-Anisic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40
A Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinSodium LevulinateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.20
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
22.50
B Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
3.50
B Sunflower Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
5.00
B Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Prepare phase A. Raise the pH to 10 to dissolve Cosphaderm® AS and stir until everything is completely dissolved.
Afterwards, adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05 by adding Citric Acid.
Phase B: Prepare phase B and homogenise for 5 minutes with high performance disperser (stator/rotor) at max. speed.
Add phase B to phase A in small steps under stirring.
Adjust pH value to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Shiny emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

BLACK PEELING MASK ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.26.2.2

PURIFYING. DETOXIFYING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
53.95
A Kaolin
Kaolin
-
10.00
A Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
8.00
A Plantacare® 818 UP
Coco Glucoside
BASF SE
3.00
A Charcoal Powder
Charcoal Powder
-
2.85
A Cinnamic Acid
Cinnamic Acid
-
0.30
A Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinSodium LevulinateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.20
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40
B Mango Butter
Mangifera Indica Seed Butter
-
6.00
B PolyAquol®-2W
Polyglyceryl-2-StearateGlyceryl StearateStearyl Alcohol
Innovacos
2.50
B Beeswax
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
B Ecorol® 16/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
2.00
B Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
C Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
D Kaolin
Kaolin
-
5.00
D Lipo® AMS
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Meal
Vantage Speciality Ingredients, Inc.
1.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A except Cosphaderm® CA natural and
Cosphaderm® LA-T and stir for 10 min at 1500 rpm. Add Cosphaderm® CA natural and raise the pH to 11
to dissolve it completely.
Then add Cosphaderm® LA-T to lower the pH again.
Phase B: Prepare phase B and heat phase A and phase B separately to 75 °C.
Add phase B to phase A under thorough stirring with the propeller stirrer and homogenise the mixture.
Phase C: Add Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98 to phase A+B under stirring and below 40 °C.
Phase D: Prepare phase D and add it to the formulation. Let the mask cool down under moderate
stirring.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Black, creamy paste with small exfoliants
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

RICH & NATURAL W/O CREAM ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.71.2.1

REGENERATING. PROTECTING. SOFT TEXTURE.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® pAS natural, Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
70.60
A Cosphaderm® pAS natural
p-Anisic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinSodium LevulinateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.40
B Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
1.50
B Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
3.00
B Magnesium Sulfate
Magnesium Sulfate
-
0.70
C Imwitor® 600
Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
IOI Oleo GmbH
3.00
C Candellila Wax
Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax
-
0.60
C Lanette® O
Cetearyl Alcohol
BASF SE
1.00
C MCT Oil Typ V Ph. Eur.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Gustav Heess GmbH
7.00
C Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
5.00
C Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
C Miglyol® Coco 810
Coco-Caprylate / Caprate
IOI Oleo GmbH
3.50
D Cosphaderm® Tapmix
LecithinHelianthus Annuus Seed OilTocopherolAscorbyl Palmitate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50

MANUFACTURING PROCESS
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and raise the pH to 10 to dissolve Cosphaderm® pAS natural. Stir until everything is completely dissolved. Afterwards, adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05 by adding Citric Acid.
Phase B: Add all ingredients of phase B to phase A.
Phase C: Combine all ingredients and heat to 80 °C. Then add phase A/B to phase C while homogenising.
Add phase D to the finished formulation and homogenise.

SPECIFICATION
Appearance: White, slightly beige cream
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

HairCare

ANTI-DANDRUFF SHAMPOO (A) ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

400.62.1.1

CLEANSING. FOAMING. NATURALLY ACTIVE AGAINST DANDRUFF.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® Sodium pAS natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
77.45
A Sodium Coco-Sulfate
Sodium Coco Sulfate
-
10.00
A Plantacare® 1200 UP
Lauryl Glucoside
BASF SE
4.00
A Dehyton® K
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
BASF SE
2.00
A SOFTISAN® conditionHAIR
PCA Glyceryl Oleate
IOI Oleo GmbH
1.00
A Cosphagard® SA natural
Salicylic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
C Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT
Phytic AcidAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
C Cosphaderm® Sodium pAS natural
Sodium Anisate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
C Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinSodium LevulinateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
D Sodium Chloride
Sodium Chloride
-
0.75

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A. Heat phase A to 40 °C.Raise the pH to 11 to dissolve Cosphagard® SA natural.
Phase B: Add phase B to A and stir until Cosphaderm® X 34 is completely dissolved.
Phase C: Add phase C under stirring.
Phase D: Add phase D to thicken the formulation.
Adjust the pH to 4.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: translucent to yellowish liquid
pH: 4.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

ANTI-DANDRUFF SHAMPOO (B) ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

400.62.2.1

CLEANSING. FOAMING. NATURALLY ACTIVE AGAINST DANDRUFF.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® pAS natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
77.45
A Sodium Coco-Sulfate
Sodium Coco Sulfate
-
10.00
A Plantacare® 1200 UP
Lauryl Glucoside
BASF SE
4.00
A Dehyton® K
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
BASF SE
2.00
A SOFTISAN® conditionHAIR
PCA Glyceryl Oleate
IOI Oleo GmbH
1.00
A Cosphagard® SA natural
Salicylic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
A Cosphaderm® pAS natural
p-Anisic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
C Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT
Phytic AcidAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
C Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinSodium LevulinateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
D Sodium Chloride
Sodium Chloride
-
0.75

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A. Raise the pH to 11 to dissolve Cosphagard® SA natural.
Heat phase A to 70 °C.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients and stir until Cosphaderm® X 34 is completely dissolved.
Heat phase B to 70 °C.
Add phase B to phase A under very soft stirring.
Phase C: Add phase C below 40 °C to the finished formulation. Adjust the pH to 4.5 ± 0.05.
The shampoo will thicken within 24 hours.

Specification
Appearance: Clear to yellowish liquid
pH: 4.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

ANTI-DANDRUFF SHAMPOO (C)

400.62.3.1

CLEANSING. FOAMING. NATURALLY ACTIVE AGAINST DANDRUFF.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® AS

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
77.45
A Sodium Coco-Sulfate
Sodium Coco Sulfate
-
10.00
A Plantacare® 1200 UP
Lauryl Glucoside
BASF SE
4.00
A Dehyton® K
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
BASF SE
2.00
A SOFTISAN® conditionHAIR
PCA Glyceryl Oleate
IOI Oleo GmbH
1.00
A Cosphagard® SA natural
Salicylic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
A Cosphaderm® AS
p-Anisic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
C Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT
Phytic AcidAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
C Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinSodium LevulinateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
D Sodium Chloride
Sodium Chloride
-
0.75

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A. Raise the pH to 11 to dissolve Cosphagard® SA natural.
Heat phase A to 70 °C.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients and stir until Cosphaderm® X 34 is completely dissolved.
Heat phase B to 70 °C.
Add phase B to phase A under very soft stirring.
Phase C: Add phase C below 40 °C to the finished formulation. Adjust the pH to 4.5 ± 0.05.
The shampoo will thicken within 24 hours.

Specification
Appearance: Clear to yellowish liquid
pH: 4.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

Cleansing

SOFT FACE CLEANSER

300.14.1.2

MILDLY CLEANSING. SENSITIVE. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural, Cosphaderm® LA-T

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
4.35
A Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
5.00
A Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinSodium LevulinateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
A Cosphaderm® CHA
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.15
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
C Plantacare® 818 UP
Coco Glucoside
BASF SE
10.00
C Plantacare® 2000 UP
Decyl Glucoside
BASF SE
4.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Mix all ingredients except Cosphaderm® CHA. Add Cosphaderm® CHA while stirring, then
heat mixture to 70 °C. Stir phase A until complete dissolution.
Phase B: Slowly add Cosphaderm® X 34 to phase A while stirring.
Phase C: Mix phase C and add to phase A+B while carefully stirring to prevent foaming.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Transparent gel
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

Babycare

CALMING BABY LOTION ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

500.43.2.1

NATURALLY MILD. SOOTHING. MOISTURISING.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® GMCY

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
80.70
A Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
3.00
A Cinnamic Acid
Cinnamic Acid
-
0.20
A Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinSodium LevulinateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
B Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate high
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
C Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
C Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
C Argan Oil
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
C PolyAquol®-2W
Polyglyceryl-2-StearateGlyceryl StearateStearyl Alcohol
Innovacos
2.50
C Lanette® 16
Cetyl Alcohol
BASF SE
1.00
C Beeswax white
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
C Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
C Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
C Cosphaderm® GMCY
Glyceryl Caprylate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50

MANUFACTURING PROCESS
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and raise the pH to 11 under stirring to dissolve cinnamic acid. When everything is dissolved, lower the pH back to 6 again.
Add phase B to A and stir until everything is dissolved. Heat phase A/B to 75 °C.
Phase C: Combine all ingredients and heat to 80 °C. Add then phase C to phase A/B under strong stirring and homogenise.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

SPECIFICATION
Appearance: White emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)