FORMULATIONS

MODERN COSMETICS FOR AMBITIOUS FORMULATORS

We understand the requirements and issues of cosmetic formulators. That’s why we spend a lot of time with application technology in our in-house laboratory. Here we investigate the incorporation and effect of raw materials in order to offer our customers the best possible support and appropriate recommendations.

We have provided a selected set of formulations for you to download here – enjoy!

FaceCare

RICH MOISTURISER ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.42.2.1

NOURISHING. HYDRATING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® CA natural, Cosphaderm® GeMix

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Demin. Water
-
ad 100
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
5.00
A Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT
Phytic AcidAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Cosphaderm® CA natural
Cinnamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
C Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
C Argan Oil
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
C Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
C Imwitor® 372P
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
IOI Oleo GmbH
2.00
D Cosphaderm® GeMix
Glyceryl CaprylateGlyceryl Undecylenate
Cosphatec GmbH
1.20

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A under stirring. Stir until Cosphaderm® X 34 is completely
dissolved. Raise the pH to 11 to dissolve Cosphaderm® CA natural.
Phase B: Add Cosphaderm® SF-75H to phase A under stirring and let it soak for 10 minutes. Then heat
phase A+B to 80 °C.
Phase C: Combine all ingredients of phase C and heat to 80 °C. Add then phase C to phase A+B under
strong stirring and homogenise the formulation.
Phase D: Add Cosphaderm® GeMix below 40 °C.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: White cream
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

BLACK PEELING MASK ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.26.2.2

PURIFYING. DETOXIFYING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® CA natural, Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Kaolin
Kaolin
-
10.00
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
8.00
A Plantacare® 818 UP
Coco Glucoside
BASF SE
3.00
A Charcoal Powder
Charcoal Powder
-
2.85
A Cosphaderm® CA natural
Cinnamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
A Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinAqua, Sodium Levulinate, Potassium SorbateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.20
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40
B Mango Butter
Mangifera Indica Seed Butter
-
6.00
B PolyAquol®-2W
Polyclyceryl-2-StearateGlyceryl StearateStearyl Alcohol
Innovacos
2.50
B Beeswax
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
B Ecorol® 16/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
2.00
B Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
C Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
D Kaolin
Kaolin
-
5.00
D Lipo® AMS
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Meal
Vantage Speciality Ingredients, Inc.
1.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A except Cosphaderm® CA natural and
Cosphaderm® LA-T and stir for 10 min at 1500 rpm. Add Cosphaderm® CA natural and raise the pH to 11
to dissolve it completely.
Then add Cosphaderm® LA-T to lower the pH again.
Phase B: Prepare phase B and heat phase A and phase B separately to 75 °C.
Add phase B to phase A under thorough stirring with the propeller stirrer and homogenise the mixture.
Phase C: Add Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98 to phase A+B under stirring and below 40 °C.
Phase D: Prepare phase D and add it to the formulation. Let the mask cool down under moderate
stirring.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Black, creamy paste with small exfoliants
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

AFTER-SUN GEL

100.54.2.1

COOLING. STRESS-RELIEVING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® CA natural, Cosphaderm® Pentiol GL

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Cosphaderm® X soft
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
5.00
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A D-Panthenol 75 %
PanthenolAqua
-
1.00
A Cosphaderm® Pentiol GL
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
B Cosphaderm® CA natural
Cinnamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Witch Hazel Water
Hamamelis virginiana water
-
10.00
Ronacare® Allantoin
Allantoin
Merck KGaA
0.20
B Aloe Vera Powder
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
-
0.50
B Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinAqua, Sodium Levulinate, Potassium SorbateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and mix with a stirring rod, then set aside.
Phase B: Add Cosphaderm® CA natural, witch hazel water, allantoin and aloe vera powder to the water
and increase the pH value to 9 – 10. Stir until the powder has dissolved completely. Afterwards, add
Cosphaderm® LA-T to the mixture.
Add phase B to phase A and stir until a slightly viscous gel is formed.
Adjust pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Yellowish, clear, slightly viscous gel
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

Cleansing

DETANGLE SHAMPOO ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

400.46.1.1

CONDITIONING. DETANGLING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® GeMix, Cosphaderm® CA natural

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Cosphaderm® GeMix
Glyceryl CaprylateGlyceryl Undecylenate
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
A SOFTISAN® conditionHAIR
PCA Glyceryl Oleate
IOI Oleo GmbH
0.50
A Perlastan® SC
Sodium/Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate
Schill + Seilacher Struktol GmbH
10.00
A Plantacare® 818 UP
Coco Glucoside
BASF SE
10.00
A Plantacare® 1200 UP
Lauryl Glucoside
BASF SE
2.00
A Witarix® 60/40
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
IOI Oleo GmbH
0.30
A Cosphaderm® CA natural
Cinnamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
3.00
B Cosphaderm® X soft
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
71.90
B Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT
Phytic AcidAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and stir slowly until Cosphaderm® CA natural is completely
dissolved.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients of phase B and stir until Cosphaderm® X soft is dissolved.
Heat both phases separately to 50 °C and add phase B to phase A under thorough stirring with
the propeller stirrer. Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Milky, white gel
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

Special Care

BABY BATH ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

500.31.3.1

GENTLY FOAMING. MILDLY CLEANSING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative Preservation: Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural, Cosphaderm® GeMix, Cosphaderm® CA natural

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® E NGM
Lysolecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
5.00
C Plantacare® 818 UP
Coco Glucoside
BASF SE
10.00
C Plantacare® 2000 UP
Decyl Glucoside
BASF SE
25.00
C Cosphaderm® GeMix
Glyceryl CaprylateGlyceryl Undecylenate
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
D Cosphaderm® CA natural
Cinnamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30

Manufacturing Process
Phase A+B: Combine phase A in a beaker and stir until Cosphaderm® X 34 is dissolved.
Heat phase A to 60 °C and add phase B under strong stirring.
Phase C: Add phase C to phase A+B below 40 °C.
Phase D: Before adding phase D to the mixture increase the pH to 11 and add
Cosphaderm® CA natural.
Afterwards lower the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Transparent, yellow gel
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

CALMING BABY CREAM ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

NATURALLY MILD. SOOTHING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® CA natural, Cosphaderm® GMCY

PHASEIngredientCosmosINCISUPPLIER%
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
3.00
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
A Cosphaderm® CA natural
Cinnamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate high
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Sodium Hydroxide Solution (10 %)
AquaAqua, Sodium Hydroxide
-
q.s.
B Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
B Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
B Argan Oil
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B PolyAquol®-2W
Polyclyceryl-2-StearateGlyceryl StearateStearyl Alcohol
Innovacos
2.50
B Ecorol® 16/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
1.00
B Beeswax
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
B Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Cosphaderm® GMCY
Glyceryl Caprylate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
C Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinAqua, Sodium Levulinate, Potassium SorbateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
C Citric Acid Solution (10 %)
AquaAqua, Citric Acid
-
q.s

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and raise the pH to 11 under stirring to dissolve
Cosphaderm® CA natural. Then heat phase A to 80 °C.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients and heat to 80 °C. Add then phase B to phase A under strong
stirring.
Add phase C to the finished formulation. Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: White cream
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)