FORMULATIONS

MODERN COSMETICS FOR AMBITIOUS FORMULATORS

We understand the requirements and issues of cosmetic formulators. That’s why we spend a lot of time with application technology in our in-house laboratory. Here we investigate the incorporation and effect of raw materials in order to offer our customers the best possible support and appropriate recommendations.

We have provided a selected set of formulations for you to download here – enjoy!

FaceCare

RICH & NATURAL W/O CREAM ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.71.2.1

REGENERATING. PROTECTING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® pAS natural, Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
70.60
A Cosphaderm® pAS natural
p-Anisic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinSodium LevulinateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.40
B Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
1.50
B Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
3.00
B Magnesium Sulfate
Magnesium Sulfate
-
0.70
C Imwitor® 600
Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
IOI Oleo GmbH
3.00
C Candellila Wax
Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax
-
0.60
C Lanette® O
Cetearyl Alcohol
BASF SE
1.00
C Witarix® MCT 60/40
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
IOI Oleo GmbH
7.00
C Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
5.00
C Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
C Miglyol® Coco 810
Coco-Caprylate / Caprate
IOI Oleo GmbH
3.50
D Cosphaderm® Tapmix
LecithinHelianthus Annuus Seed OilTocopherolAscorbyl Palmitate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50

MANUFACTURING PROCESS
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and raise the pH to 10 to dissolve Cosphaderm® pAS natural. Stir until everything is completely dissolved. Afterwards, adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05 by adding Citric Acid.
Phase B: Add all ingredients of phase B to phase A. Then heat phase A/B to 80 °C.
Phase C: Combine all ingredients and heat to 80 °C. Add then phase C to phase A/B under strong stirring.
Add phase D to the finished formulation while stirring and then homogenise.

SPECIFICATION
Appearance: slightly beige emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

SKIN PERFECTING TONER ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.61.1.2

EXFOLIATING. PORE SIZE REDUCING. SOOTHING.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
4.00
Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
A Cosphagard® SA natural
Salicylic Acid
2.00
A Sodium Hydroxide Solution (10 %)
AquaSodium Hydroxide
-
q.s.
B Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT
Phytic AcidAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Citric Acid Solution (10 %)
AquaCitric Acid
-
q.s.

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A. Raise the pH to 11 to dissolve Cosphagard® SA natural
completely.
Phase B: Lower the pH to 4.0 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Clear liquid
pH: 4.0 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

ELASTIC JELLY MASK ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.20.1.1

MOISTURISING. REFRESHING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
4.00
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.60
A Cosphaderm® KG
Amorphophallus Konjak Root Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.60
A Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
5.00
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
59.80
B Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
2.50
B Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
5.00
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
22.50

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Mix all ingredients except water, then add water and stir until everything is completely
dissolved.
Phase B: Mix all ingredients and homogenise on high-speed for 5 minutes.
Add phase B to A slowly while gently stirring for 10 minutes.
Adjust the pH to 5.45 – 5.55.
Heat the mixture to 90 – 100 °C and keep this temperature for 2 – 3 minutes (Warning: Lecithins are heat
sensitive. Therefore, the process of heating should be kept to a minimum!).
Pour the hot mixture into a suitable mould as fast as possible and let it cool down.

Specification
Appearance: White to off-white gel
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven

MOISTURISING MAGNOLIA CREAM GEL ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.13.1.1

ACTIVE AGAINST ACNE. NOURISHING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural, Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Imwitor® 375
Glyceryl CitrateLactateLineolateOleate
IOI Oleo GmbH
0.50
A Babassu Oil
Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
A Macadamia Nut Oil
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
A Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
A Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
A Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.05
B Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
23.25
C Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
3.00
C Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
4.00
C Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
5.00
C Cosphaderm® KG
Amorphophallus Konjac Root Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.80
Demin. Water
Aqua
-
54.90

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Prepare phase A and melt at 50 °C, then cool down to room temperature.
Phase B: Prepare phase B and stir for 10 min.
Phase C: Prepare all ingredients of phase C except water. Slowly add the water under stirring and stir
until complete dissolution.
Combine phase A and B and homogenise. Add phase A+B in slow steps to phase C under thorough
stirring with the propeller stirrer.
Adjust pH to 5.5 – 6.0 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Shiny, viscous emulsion
pH: 5.5 – 6.0 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

Cleansing

HYGIENIC HAND GEL ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

300.66.1.1

DISINFECTING. NON-STICKY. FAST ABSORBING.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
49.60
A Cosphaderm® X soft
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40
B Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
20.00
C Ethanol
Alcohol
-
30.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Add Cosphaderm® X soft to the water and stir until it’s completely dissolved.
Phase B: Add phase B in small steps to phase A while stirring at 1500rpm.
Phase C: Add phase C in small steps to phase A+B while stirring at 1500rpm.
Adjust the pH to 7.0 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: translucent, viscous gel
pH: 7.0 ± 0.05

Tested against bacteria according to DIN EN 1500, 1276, 1650.

ALOE VERA MICELLAR WATER ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

300.12.3.1

DEEP CLEANSING. REFRESHING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Sodium LAAS, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural, Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
63.50
A Aloe Vera Juice 100 %
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
Rainbow Gesellschaft für Naturprodukte mbH
20.00
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
5.00
A Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
A Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
5.00
A Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT
Phytic AcidAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Cosphaderm® Sodium LAAS
Sodium LevulinateSodium Anisate
Cosphatec GmbH
1.60
B Plantacare® 2000 UP
Decyl Glucoside
BASF SE
3.80

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A in a beaker and stir with the propeller stirrer
at 1500 rpm for 3 minutes.
Phase B: Add phase B to phase A and stir slowly at 500 rpm.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Transparent liquid
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

Bodycare

IN-SHOWER BODY LOTION ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

200.51.2.1

LIGHT SKIN FEEL. HIGH SPREADABILITY. MOISTURISING.

Preservation: Cosphagard® Pol, Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
2.00
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.60
A Cosphagard® Pol
AquaSodium LevulinatePotassium Sorbate
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
A Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
B Sunflower Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
4.00
B Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
4.00
B Witarix® MCT 60/40
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
IOI Oleo GmbH
3.00
B SOFTISAN® conditionHAIR
PCA Glyceryl Oleate
IOI Oleo GmbH
1.00
B Macadamia Nut Oil
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B Softisan® 100
Hydrogenated Coco Glycerides
IOI Oleo GmbH
2.00
B Ecorol® 16/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
1.00
B Imwitor® 372P
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
IOI Oleo GmbH
2.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A under stirring and stir until Cosphaderm® X 34 is completely
dissolved.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients of phase B. Heat both phases separately to 70 °C and add phase B
to phase A under stirring.
After stirring for 5 minutes homogenise the formulation and adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: White, shiny emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

Babycare

BABY BATH ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

500.31.3.1

GENTLY FOAMING. MILDLY CLEANSING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative Preservation: Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural, Cosphaderm® GeMix, Cosphaderm® CA natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® E NGM
Lysolecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
5.00
C Plantacare® 818 UP
Coco Glucoside
BASF SE
10.00
C Plantacare® 2000 UP
Decyl Glucoside
BASF SE
25.00
C Cosphaderm® GeMix
Glyceryl CaprylateGlyceryl Undecylenate
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
D Cosphaderm® CA natural
Cinnamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30

Manufacturing Process
Phase A+B: Combine phase A in a beaker and stir until Cosphaderm® X 34 is dissolved.
Heat phase A to 60 °C and add phase B under strong stirring.
Phase C: Add phase C to phase A+B below 40 °C.
Phase D: Before adding phase D to the mixture increase the pH to 11 and add
Cosphaderm® CA natural.
Afterwards lower the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Transparent, yellow gel
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)