FORMULATIONS

MODERN COSMETICS FOR AMBITIOUS FORMULATORS

We understand the requirements and issues of cosmetic formulators. That’s why we spend a lot of time with application technology in our in-house laboratory. Here we investigate the incorporation and effect of raw materials in order to offer our customers the best possible support and appropriate recommendations.

We have provided a selected set of formulations for you to download here – enjoy!

FaceCare

HAPPY BARRIER CREAM ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.90.1.1

HYDRATING. NOURISHING. SKIN BARRIER ENHANCING.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Absolute, Cosphaderm® GMCY, Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
53.70
A Cosphaderm® X soft
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.60
B Cosphaderm® Absolute
PropanediolSodium LactateBetaineAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
20.00
C Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
D Cosphaderm® GS Connect
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
D Lanette® O
Cetearyl Alcohol
BASF SE
2.00
D Behenyl Alcohol
Behenyl Alcohol
-
2.50
D Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
5.00
D Cosphaderm® GMCY
Glyceryl Caprylate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
D Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.50
D MCT Oil Typ V Ph. Eur.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Gustav Heess GmbH
5.00
D Squalane
Squalane
-
4.00
D Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
E Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20

MANUFACTURING PROCESS
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and stir until everything is completely dissolved.
Phase B: Add phase B to A while stirring.
Phase C: Add phase C to the water phase while stirring. Then heat the water phase to 70-75 °C.
Phase D: Combine all ingredients of phase D and heat to 75°C. Phase E is added to the oil phase just before emulsion is formed.
Add phase D+E to the water phase while homogenising.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

SPECIFICATION
Appearance: Light beige cream
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

Cleansing

PURIFYING CLEANSING LOTION

300.32.3.1

MAKE-UP REMOVING. PURIFYING. CLEANSING.

Preservation: Cosphagard® Pol, Cosphaderm® GMCY

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
10.00
A Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
12.00
A Lanette® O
Cetearyl Alcohol
BASF SE
5.00
A Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
A Cosphaderm® GMCY
Glyceryl Caprylate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
B Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
2.00
B Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT
Phytic AcidAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Cosphagard® Pol
AquaSodium LevulinatePotassium Sorbate
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
C D-Panthenol 75 %
PanthenolAqua
-
1.00
C Ronacare® Allantoin
Allantoin
Merck KGaA
0.50

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Prepare phase A and heat to 65 °C.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients except Cosphaderm® X 34. Slowly add Cosphaderm® X 34 to phase B
under stirring.
Stir until complete dissolution. Then heat phase A and phase B separately to 65 °C. Add phase B to
phase A to emulsify both phases. Stir until the formulation is cooled down.
Phase C: Add phase C below 30 °C and stir until everything is mixed.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05 if necessary.

Specification
Appearance: White gel
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

BATH BOMB ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

300.68.1.1

FIZZY. SOOTHING. RELAXING.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® GMCY

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Sodium Bicarbonate
Sodium Bicarbonate
-
42.00
A Citric Acid
Citric Acid
-
21.00
A Corn Starch
Zea Mays Starch
-
20.00
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A BergaSoft SCI 80
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate
Berg + Schmidt GmbH & Co. KG
2.50
B Cosphaderm® GMCY
Glyceryl Caprylate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.80
B Coconut Oil
Coco Nucifera Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
13.50

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A.
Phase B: Melt all ingredients of phase B (35-40°C) and add to phase A. Mix until everything is homogeneous.
Press mixture into molds.

Specification
Appearance: Solid, white bar
Stability: Microbiological stability proven (Water activity value less than 0.75)

Bodycare

ORGANIC BODY BUTTER ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

200.112.1.1

RICH. NATURAL. SOFT.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Sodium LAAS, Cosphaderm® GMCY

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
62.50
A Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
4.00
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40
A Cosphaderm® Sodium LAAS
Sodium LevulinateSodium Anisate
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
A Cosphaderm® PA-12
Sodium Phytate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Cosphaderm® GS Connect
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Cosphatec GmbH
3.50
B Cutina® GMS V
Glyceryl Stearate
BASF SE
3.00
B Lanette® O
Cetearyl Alcohol
BASF SE
4.00
B Beeswax white
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
B Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
5.00
B Babassu Oil
Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
5.00
B Sunflower Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
B Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
B MCT Oil Typ V Ph. Eur.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Gustav Heess GmbH
5.00
B Cosphaderm® GMCY
Glyceryl Caprylate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20

MANUFACTURING PROCESS
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and stir until everything is completely dissolved.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients of phase B.
Heat both phases separately to 75 °C and add phase B to A while stirring. Stir cold and homogenise at 40°C.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

SPECIFICATION
Appearance:  White emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

WARMING FOOTCREAM

200.36.1.1

WARMING. BOOSTING BLOOD CIRCULATION. NOURISHING.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural, Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98, Cosphaderm® GMCY

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
45.10
A Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
3.00
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
A Urea
Urea
-
10.00
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
B Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
8.00
B Lanette® O
Cetearyl Alcohol
BASF SE
3.00
B Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
8.00
B Carnauba Wax
Copernicia Cerifera Cera
Gustav Heess GmbH
5.00
B Beeswax
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
8.00
B Cosphaderm® VBE
Vanillyl Butyl Ether
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
B Cosphaderm® GMCY
Glyceryl Caprylate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.80
B Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
B Lamecreme
Glyceryl StearateGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
-
5.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A. Slowly add Cosphaderm® X 34 to phase A and stir until completely dissolved.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients of phase B. Heat both phases separately to 80-82 °C.
Add then phase B to phase A under strong stirring and homogenise the formulation.
Adjust pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Shiny, white cream
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

DEODORANT CREAM ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

200.76.1.1

VEGAN. REFRESHING. NOURISHING.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® GMCY, Cosphaderm® Zinc Lactate natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Ecorol® 16/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
10.50
A Candellila Wax
Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax
-
7.20
A Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
10.00
A Cocoa Butter
Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
10.00
A MCT Oil Typ V Ph. Eur.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Gustav Heess GmbH
17.50
A Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
4.00
A Cosphaderm® GMCY
Glyceryl Caprylate
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
B Cosphaderm® Zinc Lactate natural
Zinc Lactate
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
B Sodium Bicarbonate
Sodium Bicarbonate
-
8.00
B Corn Starch
Zea Mays Starch
-
29.50

MANUFACTURING PROCESS
Combine all ingredients of phase A, heating to 75 °C. When everything has melted, add phase B. Take off heat and fill into packaging.

SPECIFICATION
Appearance: Solid, yellowish balm
Stability: Microbiological stability proven (Water activity value less than 0.75)

MenCare

AFTER SHAVE FLUID ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

600.105.1.1

FAST ABSORBING. HYDRATING. COOLING.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Hexiol natural, Cosphaderm® GMCY

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
81.30
A Aloe Vera Powder
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
-
0.10
A Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
5.00
A D-Panthenol 75 %
PanthenolAqua
-
0.50
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Montanov™ 202
Arachidyl AlcoholBehenyl AlcoholArachidyl Glucoside
SEPPIC, S.A.
5.00
B Cosphaderm® GMCY
Glyceryl Caprylate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
B Bisabolol
Bisabolol
-
0.30
B MCT Oil Typ V Ph. Eur.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Gustav Heess GmbH
5.00
C Cosphaderm® Hexiol natural
1,2-Hexanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
C Menthol
Menthol
-
0.30

MANUFACTURING PROCESS
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and stir until everything is completely dissolved. Heat to 70-75 °C.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients and heat to 75 °C. Add then phase B to phase A under strong stirring and homogenise.
Phase C: Dissolve the menthol in Cosphaderm® Hexiol natural and add below 40°C.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

SPECIFICATION
Appearance: White emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

FACE CREAM FOR MEN

600.56.2.1

BOOSTING. LIGHT SKIN FEEL. HYDRATING.

Preservation: Cosphagard® Elbe, Cosphaderm® GMCY

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
9.00
A Coconut Oil
Cocos Nucifera Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
A Shea Butter
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
A Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
1.50
A Sunflower Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
A Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
A Macadamia Oil
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.50
A Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Ecorol® 16/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
1.00
A Cosphaderm® GS Connect
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
B Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
1.00
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40
B Ronacare® Allantoin
Allantoin
Merck KGaA
0.20
B Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate high
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
C Aloe Vera Powder
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
-
0.20
C D-Panthenol 75 %
PanthenolAqua
-
0.50
C Cosphaderm® GMCY
Glyceryl Caprylate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40
C Cosphagard® Elbe
AquaSodium LevulinateSodium Benzoate
Cosphatec GmbH
2.50

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and heat to 80 °C.
Phase B: Combine all of the liquid ingredients and add the powders while stirring.
Then heat to 80 °C.
Afterwards combine phase A and B and homogenise the mixture.
Phase C: Add phase C to the formulation (<40 °C) and stir.
Homogenise a second time if needed.
Adjust pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: White, shiny emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

Babycare

CALMING BABY LOTION ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

500.43.2.1

NATURALLY MILD. SOOTHING. MOISTURISING.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® GMCY

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
80.70
A Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
3.00
A Cinnamic Acid
Cinnamic Acid
-
0.20
A Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinSodium LevulinateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
B Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate high
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
C Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
C Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
C Argan Oil
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
C PolyAquol®-2W
Polyglyceryl-2-StearateGlyceryl StearateStearyl Alcohol
Innovacos
2.50
C Lanette® 16
Cetyl Alcohol
BASF SE
1.00
C Beeswax white
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
C Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
C Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
C Cosphaderm® GMCY
Glyceryl Caprylate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50

MANUFACTURING PROCESS
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and raise the pH to 11 under stirring to dissolve cinnamic acid. When everything is dissolved, lower the pH back to 6 again.
Add phase B to A and stir until everything is dissolved. Heat phase A/B to 75 °C.
Phase C: Combine all ingredients and heat to 80 °C. Add then phase C to phase A/B under strong stirring and homogenise.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

SPECIFICATION
Appearance: White emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

Sun & Color Care

BI-PHASE MAKE-UP REMOVER ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

300.110.1.1

GENTLE. CLEANSING. REGENERATING.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Sodium LAAS, Cosphaderm® GMCY

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
68.40
A Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
5.00
A Sodium PCA
Sodium PCA
-
0.50
A Sodium Chloride
Sodium Chloride
-
0.50
A Cosphaderm® Sodium LAAS
Sodium LevulinateSodium Anisate
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
10.00
B Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
7.00
B Cetiol® CC
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
BASF SE
4.00
B Rosehip Seed Oil
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
B Cosphaderm® GMCY
Glyceryl Caprylate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and stir until complete dissolution.
Adjust the pH value to 5.5 ± 0.05.
Phase B: Prepare phase B in a separate beaker.
Add phase B to phase A without stirring and pour mixture into spray flask.

Specification
Appearance: Two-phase system with oil phase on top of translucent water phase
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven

LIP SCRUB ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.102.1.1

VEGAN. SOFTENING. NOURISHING.

Oil protection: Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Castor Oil
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
28.90
A Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
-
10.00
A Lanette® O
Cetearyl Alcohol
BASF SE
2.50
A Candellila Wax
Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
A Cosphaderm® GMCY
Glyceryl Caprylate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
A MCT Oil Typ V Ph. Eur.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Gustav Heess GmbH
10.00
A Cetiol® CC
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
BASF SE
7.50
A Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
5.00
A Octyldodecanol
Octyldodecanol
-
12.10
A Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Cosphaderm® E-1000 Sunflower
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
B Sucrose
Sucrose
-
20.00
C Cosmetic Colour
-
q.s.

MANUFACTURING PROCESS
Phase A: Prepare phase A and heat to 60-65 °C. Stir until complete dissolution.
Phase B: Let the mixture cool down and add phase B at room temperature.
Phase C: Add colour as desired.

SPECIFICATION
Appearance: Yellowish oil gel
Stability: Microbiological stability proven (Water activity value less than 0.75)