FORMULATIONS

MODERN COSMETICS FOR AMBITIOUS FORMULATORS

We understand the requirements and issues of cosmetic formulators. That’s why we spend a lot of time with application technology in our in-house laboratory. Here we investigate the incorporation and effect of raw materials in order to offer our customers the best possible support and appropriate recommendations.

We have provided a selected set of formulations for you to download here – enjoy!

FaceCare

MATTIFYING DAY CREAM ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.69.1.1

MOISTURISING. QUICKLY ABSORBING. LIGHT GEL CREAM TEXTURE.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Zinc Lactate natural, Cosphaderm® GeMix

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
76.30
A Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
3.00
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
A Cosphaderm® Zinc Lactate natural
Zinc Lactate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
B PolyAquol®-2W
Polyglyceryl-2-StearateGlyceryl StearateStearyl Alcohol
Innovacos
4.00
B Lanette® O
Cetearyl Alcohol
BASF SE
2.50
B Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
B MCT Oil Typ V Ph. Eur.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Gustav Heess GmbH
4.00
B Sunflower Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
B Cosphaderm® GeMix
Glyceryl CaprylateGlyceryl Undecylenate
Cosphatec GmbH
1.20
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
Helianthus Annuus Seed OilTocopherol
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20

MANUFACTURING PROCESS
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and stir until everything is completely dissolved.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients of phase B.
Heat both phases separately to 75-80 °C.  Add phase B to A while stirring and then homogenise.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

SPECIFICATION
Appearance: white gel cream
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

HairCare

DETANGLE SHAMPOO ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

400.46.2.1

CONDITIONING. DETANGLING. SULFATE-FREE.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® GeMix, Cosphaderm® Sodium pAS natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
71.90
A Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
3.00
A Cosphaderm® X soft
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
A Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT
Phytic AcidAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Cosphaderm® GeMix
Glyceryl CaprylateGlyceryl Undecylenate
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® Sodium pAS natural
Sodium Anisate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B SOFTISAN® conditionHAIR
PCA Glyceryl Oleate
IOI Oleo GmbH
0.50
B Perlastan® SC
Sodium/Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate
Schill + Seilacher Struktol GmbH
10.00
B Plantacare® 818 UP
Coco Glucoside
BASF SE
10.00
B Plantacare® 1200 UP
Lauryl Glucoside
BASF SE
2.00
B MCT Oil Typ V Ph. Eur.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Gustav Heess GmbH
0.30

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and stir slowly until Cosphaderm® CA natural is completely
dissolved.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients of phase B and stir until Cosphaderm® X soft is dissolved.
Heat both phases separately to 50 °C and add phase B to phase A under thorough stirring with
the propeller stirrer. Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Milky, white gel
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

Cleansing

SOFT CLEANSING FOAM ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

300.83.1.1

GENTLE CLEANSING. REFRESHING. SOOTHING.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® GeMix, Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
83.40
A Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
A Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT
Phytic AcidAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
A D-Panthenol 75 %
PanthenolAqua
-
1.00
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
C Plantacare® 818 UP
Coco Glucoside
BASF SE
4.00
C Perlastan® SC
Sodium/Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate
Schill + Seilacher Struktol GmbH
4.00
C SOFTISAN® conditionHAIR
PCA Glyceryl Oleate
IOI Oleo GmbH
0.50
C Cosphaderm® GeMix
Glyceryl CaprylateGlyceryl Undecylenate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.80

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and stir until everything is dissolved.
Phase B: Add phase B to phase A under stirring.
Phase C: Combine all ingredients of phase C separately. Add then phase C to phase A and B under
stirring.
Adjust pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Transparent solution
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

MenCare

BEARD BALM ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

600.34.1.1

NOURISHING. CONDITIONING. STYLING.

Oil protection: Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO, Cosphaderm® GeMix

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
36.30
A Mango Butter
Mangifera Indica Seed Butter
-
23.00
A Wool Fat
Lanolin
Gustav Heess GmbH
8.00
A Apricot Kernel Oil
Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
10.30
A Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
8.00
A Beeswax
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
7.00
A Cocoa Butter
Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
6.00
A Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Cosphaderm® GeMix
Glyceryl CaprylateGlyceryl Undecylenate
Cosphatec GmbH
1.20

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Prepare phase A and heat to 70 °C until fully melted. Stir until complete dissolution.
Pour into container and let it cool down.

Specification
Appearance: Yellow balm
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

Babycare

BABY BATH ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

500.31.3.1

GENTLE CLEANSING. MILD. FOAMY.

Alternative Preservation: Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural, Cosphaderm® GeMix

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
55.70
A Cinnamic Acid
Cinnamic Acid
-
0.30
B Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
C Cosphaderm® E NGM
Lysolecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
5.00
D Plantacare® 818 UP
Coco Glucoside
BASF SE
10.00
D Plantacare® 2000 UP
Decyl Glucoside
BASF SE
25.00
D Cosphaderm® GeMix
Glyceryl CaprylateGlyceryl Undecylenate
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A+B: Combine phase A in a beaker and stir until Cosphaderm® X 34 is dissolved.
Heat phase A to 60 °C and add phase B under strong stirring.
Phase C: Add phase C to phase A+B below 40 °C.
Phase D: Before adding phase D to the mixture increase the pH to 11 and add
Cosphaderm® CA natural.
Afterwards lower the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Transparent, yellow gel
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

Sun & Color Care

NATURAL MINERAL SUN LOTION ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

800.108.1.1

CALCULATED SPF 30. NATURAL SPF FILTER. WATER RESISTANT.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® GeMix

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
42.20
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
5.00
A Sodium Chloride
Sodium Chloride
-
0.50
A Potassium Citrate
Potassium Citrate
-
0.40
B Imwitor® 600
Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
IOI Oleo GmbH
3.50
B Lanette® O
Cetearyl Alcohol
BASF SE
3.00
B Coconut Oil
Coco Nucifera Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
B MCT Oil Typ V Ph. Eur.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Gustav Heess GmbH
8.00
B Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
8.00
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Cosphaderm® GeMix
Glyceryl CaprylateGlyceryl Undecylenate
Cosphatec GmbH
1.20
C ZinClear® XP 65 Coco
Zinc OxideCoco-Caprylate / CapratePolyglyceryl-3 PolyricinoleateIsostearic Acid
Lehmann&Voss&Co. KG
25.00

MANUFACTURING PROCESS
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A. Stir until everything is completely dissolved. Afterwards, adjust the pH to 5.5 – 6.0 by adding diluted Citric Acid.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients and heat to 75-80 °C. Then add phase B to phase A while homogenising.
Add phase C to the finished formulation and homogenise.

SPECIFICATION
Appearance: White emulsion
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)