FORMULATIONS

MODERN COSMETICS FOR AMBITIOUS FORMULATORS

We understand the requirements and issues of cosmetic formulators. That’s why we spend a lot of time with application technology in our in-house laboratory. Here we investigate the incorporation and effect of raw materials in order to offer our customers the best possible support and appropriate recommendations.

We have provided a selected set of formulations for you to download here – enjoy!

FaceCare

RICH NIGHTCREAM

100.6.1.1

ANTI-POLLUTION. NOURISHING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Hexiol, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural, Cosphaderm® Octiol

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Cosphaderm® Hexiol
1,2-Hexanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
A Cosphaderm® Octiol
Glyceryl Caprylate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
C Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
D Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
8.00
D Sesame Oil
Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
5.00
D Avocado Oil
Persea Gratissima Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
D Rosehip Seed Oil
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
D Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.50
D Cocoa Butter
Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.50
D Lamecreme
Glyceryl StearateGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
-
4.00
D Ecorol® 16/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
1.50
D Cosphaderm® E-1000Ac NON GMO
Tocopherol AcetateHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
D Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
E D-Panthenol 75 %
PanthenolAqua
-
1.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Mix phase A and stir until everything is completely dissolved.
Phase B: Add phase B to phase A and stir until dispersed.
Phase C: Slowly add phase C to phase A+B and stir until complete dissolution.
Phase D: Mix all ingredients of phase D and heat phase A+B+C and D separately to 80 °C.
Add phase D slowly to phase A+B+C while stirring.
Phase E: Add Panthenol to the finished formulation (below 40 °C).
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Shiny, viscous emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

URBAN ANTI-POLLUTION SKIN ELIXIR

100.18.2.1

ANTI-POLLUTION. HIGH SPREADABILITY. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
34.30
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
10.00
A Cosphaderm® X soft
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Cosphaderm® Leo
Dipropylene GlycolEthylhexylglycerinCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
2.70
B Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
4.00
B Babassu Oil
Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
4.00
B Apricot Kernel Oil
Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
4.00
B Sesame Oil
Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
B Evening Primrose Oil
Oenothera Biennis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
B Rosehip Seed Oil
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
B Grape Seed Oil
Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Cosphaderm® E-1000 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Ecorol® 16/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
1.00
C Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
C Demin. Water
Aqua
-
30.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Prepare phase A and stir at 2000 rpm until complete dissolution.
Phase B: Prepare phase B and heat to 50 °C until everything is melted. Let the mixture cool down to
room temperature.
Phase C: Prepare phase C and stir for 10 min at 800 rpm.
Add phase C to phase B and stir at 2000 rpm to emulsify both phases.
Add phase A to phase B+C and homogenise for 3 minutes.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: White, shiny emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

BOOSTING GLOW MIST

100.35.1.1

REFRESHING. SKIN BOOSTING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural, Cosphaderm® Hexiol

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Aloe Vera 0.05 %
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
-
76.10
A RonaCare® Niacinamide
Niacinamide
Merck KGaA
3.50
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A D-Panthenol 75 %
PanthenolAqua
-
1.00
A Cosphaderm® Hexiol
1,2-Hexanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
1.50
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
5.00
A Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT
Phytic AcidAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Olive Oil
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.50
B Argan Oil
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
B Avocado Oil
Persea Gratissima Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B Evening Primrose Oil
Oenothera Biennis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.50
B Rosehip Seed Oil
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
B Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.50
B Macadamia Nut Oil
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
0.50
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and stir until complete dissolution.
Adjust the pH value to 5.5 ± 0.05.
Phase B: Prepare phase B in a separate beaker.
Add phase B to phase A without stirring and pour mixture into spray flask.

Specification
Appearance: Two-phase system with oil phase on top of translucent water phase
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven

BEAUTY OIL ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.19.1.1

SILKY SKIN FEEL. NOURISHING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Oil protection: Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
40.00
A Rosehip Seed Oil
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
A Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
45.00
A Evening Primrose Oil
Oenothera Biennis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.60
A Pomegranate Seed Oil
Punica Granatum Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
4.00
A Grape Seed Oil
Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
5.00
A Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A
-
q.s.

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Mix all ingredients together and heat to 50 °C until pomegranate seed oil is melted.
Stir phase A until complete dissolution.

Specification
Appearance: Yellow liquid
Stability: Microbiological stability proven

Cleansing

SOOTHING 2IN1 MAKE-UP REMOVER

300.11.1.1

SOOTHING. MAKE-UP REMOVING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Hexiol, Cosphaderm® Pentiol GL

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
5.00
A Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT
Phytic AcidAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Plantacare® 2000 UP
Decyl Glucoside
BASF SE
0.30
B Cosphaderm® Hexiol
1,2-Hexanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® CHA
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.15
B Cosphaderm® Pentiol GL
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
C Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
20.00
C Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
C Oil-soluble Colour
-
q.s
C Perfume
Parfum
-
q.s.

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Mix all ingredients of phase A under slow stirring.
Phase B: Mix all ingredients of phase B until everything is completely dissolved and add B to phase A.
Adjust the pH of phase A+B to 5.5 ± 0.05.
Phase C: Mix all ingredients of phase C and add the mixture to phase A+B without stirring.

Specification
Appearance: Two-phase system with coloured oil phase on top of translucent water phase
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven

Bodycare

MOISTURISING BODY YOGHURT

200.9.1.1

HIGH SPREADABILITY. LIGHT SKIN FEEL. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Dicapo

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
13.00
A Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Imwitor® 375
Glyceryl CitrateLactateLineolateOleate
IOI Oleo GmbH
0.50
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
3.00
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
B Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
B Carbopol® Ultrez-21
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Lubrizol
0.30
B Cosphaderm® Dicapo
Caprylyl GlycolGlyceryl CaprylateDipropylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
0.70

Manufacturing Process
This formulation can be prepared at room temperature.
Phase A: Mix all ingredients of phase A under stirring.
Phase B: Mix all ingredients of phase B under stirring. Add phase A into phase B and homogenise until
everything is dissolved. Adjust the pH to 6.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: White cream
pH: 6.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

RICH & SOFT HANDCREAM ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

200.4.1.2

REGENERATING. SOFT SKIN FEEL. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® MultiMEG

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
2.00
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.25
C Lamecreme
Glyceryl StearateGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
-
2.50
C Montanov™ 68
Cetearyl AlcoholCetearyl Glycoside
SEPPIC, S.A.
2.00
C Tegomuls
Hydrogenated Palm Glyceride
-
0.50
C Ecorol® 18/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
1.00
C Beeswax
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
0.50
C Carnauba Wax
Cera Carnauba
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
C Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
C Sunflower Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
C Peach Kernel Oil
Prunus Persica Kernel Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.50
C Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
C Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
C Cosphaderm® AP
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
C Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
D Cosphaderm® MultiMEG
Glyceryl CaprylatePentylene GlycolMagnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
1.20

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Mix all ingredients together.
Phase B: Slowly add Cosphaderm® X 34 to phase A under strong stirring. Continue stirring for approx.
15 min at 500 rpm until complete dissolution. Then heat to 80 °C.
Phase C: Mix all ingredients together and heat to 80 °C.
Phase C: Add phase C to phase A+B and homogenise for approx. 1 min using Ultra-Turrax. Cool down
under medium stirring.
Phase D: Add Cosphaderm® MultiMEG below 40 °C under vigorous stirring.
Adjust pH if necessary.

Specification
Appearance: White, shiny, viscous emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

Special Care

FRESH & COOL AFTERSHAVE

600.37.1.1

COOLING. SOOTHING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® MultiMEG, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
3.00
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Ronacare® Allantoin
Allantoin
Merck KGaA
0.20
A Aristoflex® AVC
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/ VP Copolymer
Clariant AG
0.50
B Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
3.50
B Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
4.00
B Olive Oil
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
B Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B Avocado Oil
Persea Gratissima Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B Sesame Oil
Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B Carotene Oil
Glycine Soja (A)beta-carotene
-
0.05
B Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B Cocoa Butter
Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
0.20
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
B Lamecreme
Glyceryl StearateGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
-
4.00
B Camphor
Camphora RacemicaCamphora Synthetica
-
0.10
C Ethanol
Alcohol
Carl Roth GmbH & Co. KG
0.60
C Menthol
Menthol
FREY&LAU GmbH
0.70
D Cosphaderm® MultiMEG
Glyceryl CaprylatePentylene GlycolMagnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
1.60

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Add Allantoin to water and heat to 40 °C. Stir until complete dissolution. Add Glycerin and
Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural. While stirring add Cosphaderm® X 34. Stir until complete
dissolution. Then add Aristoflex® AVC and stir until complete dissolution.
Phase B: Prepare phase B and separately heat phase A and phase B to 80 °C.
Add phase B to phase A while stirring.
Phase C+D: Add phase C and D below 40 °C.
Adjust pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Yellowish cream
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

PROTECTIVE BABY CREAM ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

500.24.2.3

SKIN PROTECTING. SENSITIVE. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Sodium LAAS

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Babassu Oil
Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
4.00
A Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond)
Gustav Heess GmbH
12.00
A Sesame Oil
Sesamum Indicum (Sesame)
Gustav Heess GmbH
6.00
A Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
10.00
A Organic Sheabutter
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
15.00
Beeswax
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
9.00
A Lanolin
Lanolin
-
19.00
A Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
B Cosphaderm® Sodium LAAS
Aqua, Sodium Levulinate, Potassium SorbateSodium Anisate
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
23.50

Manufacturing Process
Combine all ingredients of phase A and B in separate beakers. Adjust the pH of the water to
5.5 ± 0.05. Then, heat both phases separately to 70 °C. Add slowly the water to phase A under
soft stirring.

Specification
Appearance: Yellowish cream
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)