FORMULATIONS

MODERN COSMETICS FOR AMBITIOUS FORMULATORS

We understand the requirements and issues of cosmetic formulators. That’s why we spend a lot of time with application technology in our in-house laboratory. Here we investigate the incorporation and effect of raw materials in order to offer our customers the best possible support and appropriate recommendations.

We have provided a selected set of formulations for you to download here – enjoy!

FaceCare

ELASTIC JELLY MASK ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.20.1.1

MOISTURISING. REFRESHING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
4.00
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.60
A Cosphaderm® KG
Amorphophallus Konjak Root Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.60
A Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
5.00
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
59.80
B Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
2.50
B Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
5.00
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
22.50

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Mix all ingredients except water, then add water and stir until everything is completely
dissolved.
Phase B: Mix all ingredients and homogenise on high-speed for 5 minutes.
Add phase B to A slowly while gently stirring for 10 minutes.
Adjust the pH to 5.45 – 5.55.
Heat the mixture to 90 – 100 °C and keep this temperature for 2 – 3 minutes (Warning: Lecithins are heat
sensitive. Therefore, the process of heating should be kept to a minimum!).
Pour the hot mixture into a suitable mould as fast as possible and let it cool down.

Specification
Appearance: White to off-white gel
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven

RICH MOISTURISER ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.42.2.1

NOURISHING. HYDRATING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® CA natural, Cosphaderm® GeMix

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
-
ad 100
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
5.00
A Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT
Phytic AcidAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Cosphaderm® CA natural
Cinnamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
C Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
C Argan Oil
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
C Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
C Imwitor® 372P
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
IOI Oleo GmbH
2.00
D Cosphaderm® GeMix
Glyceryl CaprylateGlyceryl Undecylenate
Cosphatec GmbH
1.20

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A under stirring. Stir until Cosphaderm® X 34 is completely
dissolved. Raise the pH to 11 to dissolve Cosphaderm® CA natural.
Phase B: Add Cosphaderm® SF-75H to phase A under stirring and let it soak for 10 minutes. Then heat
phase A+B to 80 °C.
Phase C: Combine all ingredients of phase C and heat to 80 °C. Add then phase C to phase A+B under
strong stirring and homogenise the formulation.
Phase D: Add Cosphaderm® GeMix below 40 °C.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: White cream
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

URBAN ANTI-POLLUTION SKIN ELIXIR

100.18.2.1

ANTI-POLLUTION. HIGH SPREADABILITY. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
34.30
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
10.00
A Cosphaderm® X soft
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Cosphaderm® Leo
Dipropylene GlycolEthylhexylglycerinCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
2.70
B Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
4.00
B Babassu Oil
Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
4.00
B Apricot Kernel Oil
Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
4.00
B Sesame Oil
Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
B Evening Primrose Oil
Oenothera Biennis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
B Rosehip Seed Oil
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
B Grape Seed Oil
Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Cosphaderm® E-1000 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Ecorol® 16/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
1.00
C Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
C Demin. Water
Aqua
-
30.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Prepare phase A and stir at 2000 rpm until complete dissolution.
Phase B: Prepare phase B and heat to 50 °C until everything is melted. Let the mixture cool down to
room temperature.
Phase C: Prepare phase C and stir for 10 min at 800 rpm.
Add phase C to phase B and stir at 2000 rpm to emulsify both phases.
Add phase A to phase B+C and homogenise for 3 minutes.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: White, shiny emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

MOISTURISING MAGNOLIA CREAM GEL ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.13.1.1

ACTIVE AGAINST ACNE. NOURISHING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural, Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Imwitor® 375
Glyceryl CitrateLactateLineolateOleate
IOI Oleo GmbH
0.50
A Babassu Oil
Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
A Macadamia Nut Oil
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
A Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
A Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
A Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.05
B Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
23.25
C Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
3.00
C Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
4.00
C Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
5.00
C Cosphaderm® KG
Amorphophallus Konjac Root Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.80
Demin. Water
Aqua
-
54.90

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Prepare phase A and melt at 50 °C, then cool down to room temperature.
Phase B: Prepare phase B and stir for 10 min.
Phase C: Prepare all ingredients of phase C except water. Slowly add the water under stirring and stir
until complete dissolution.
Combine phase A and B and homogenise. Add phase A+B in slow steps to phase C under thorough
stirring with the propeller stirrer.
Adjust pH to 5.5 – 6.0 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Shiny, viscous emulsion
pH: 5.5 – 6.0 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

Cleansing

PURIFYING CLEANSING LOTION

300.32.3.1

MAKE-UP REMOVING. PURIFYING. CLEANSING.

Preservation: Cosphagard® Pol, Cosphaderm® GMCY

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
10.00
A Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
12.00
A Lanette® O
Cetearyl Alcohol
BASF SE
5.00
A Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
A Cosphaderm® GMCY
Glyceryl Caprylate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
B Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
2.00
B Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT
Phytic AcidAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Cosphagard® Pol
AquaAqua, Sodium Levulinate, Potassium SorbatePotassium Sorbate
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
C D-Panthenol 75 %
PanthenolAqua
-
1.00
C Ronacare® Allantoin
Allantoin
Merck KGaA
0.50

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Prepare phase A and heat to 65 °C.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients except Cosphaderm® X 34. Slowly add Cosphaderm® X 34 to phase B
under stirring.
Stir until complete dissolution. Then heat phase A and phase B separately to 65 °C. Add phase B to
phase A to emulsify both phases. Stir until the formulation is cooled down.
Phase C: Add phase C below 30 °C and stir until everything is mixed.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05 if necessary.

Specification
Appearance: White gel
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

FACIAL CLEANSING LOTION ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

300.57.1.1

NURTURING. NATURALLY ACTIVE AGAINST ACNE. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® TOM, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
74.05
A Cosphagard® SA natural
Salicylic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
A Sodium Hydroxide Solution (10 %)
AquaAqua, Sodium Hydroxide
-
q.s.
A Citric Acid Solution (10 %)
AquaAqua, Citric Acid
-
q.s.
B Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
2.00
B Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
5.00
B Cosphaderm® X soft
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
C Coconut Oil
Coco Nucifera Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
4.50
C Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
C Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
4.00
C Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
C Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
C Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
C Imwitor 960 K
Glyceryl Stearate SE
IOI Oleo GmbH
4.00
D Aloe Vera Powder
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
-
0.25
D Cosphaderm® TOM
Pentylene GlycolGlyceryl CaprylateGlyceryl Undecylenate
Cosphatec GmbH
1.60

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine water and Cosphagard® SA natural and raise the pH value to 10 – 11. Stir until complete
dissolution. Afterwards lower the pH to approximately 6.
Phase B: Combine all of the ingredients and stir with a stirring rod until the powder is moistened.
Add phase A to phase B while stirring at medium speed to avoid air bubbles. If everything is dissolved
heat the mixture to 70 °C.
Phase C: Add all ingredients of phase C and heat to 70 °C.
Add phase C to A+B and homogenise for 3 – 5 minutes at 10,000 rpm. Then stir with propeller stirrer until
the emulsion is cooled down to <40 °C.
Phase D: Add aloe vera powder and Cosphaderm® TOM to the emulsion and stir until completely cooled
down to room temperature. Adjust pH to 6.0 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Light beige emulsion
pH: 6.0 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

Special Care

CALMING BABY CREAM ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

NATURALLY MILD. SOOTHING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® CA natural, Cosphaderm® GMCY

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
3.00
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
A Cosphaderm® CA natural
Cinnamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate high
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Sodium Hydroxide Solution (10 %)
AquaAqua, Sodium Hydroxide
-
q.s.
B Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
B Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
B Argan Oil
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B PolyAquol®-2W
Polyclyceryl-2-StearateGlyceryl StearateStearyl Alcohol
Innovacos
2.50
B Ecorol® 16/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
1.00
B Beeswax
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
B Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Cosphaderm® GMCY
Glyceryl Caprylate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
C Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinAqua, Sodium Levulinate, Potassium SorbateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
C Citric Acid Solution (10 %)
AquaAqua, Citric Acid
-
q.s

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and raise the pH to 11 under stirring to dissolve
Cosphaderm® CA natural. Then heat phase A to 80 °C.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients and heat to 80 °C. Add then phase B to phase A under strong
stirring.
Add phase C to the finished formulation. Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: White cream
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)