FORMULATIONS

MODERN COSMETICS FOR AMBITIOUS FORMULATORS

We understand the requirements and issues of cosmetic formulators. That’s why we spend a lot of time with application technology in our in-house laboratory. Here we investigate the incorporation and effect of raw materials in order to offer our customers the best possible support and appropriate recommendations.

We have provided a selected set of formulations for you to download here – enjoy!

FaceCare

MOISTURISING DAYCREAM

100.1.1.1

RICH SKIN FEEL. QUICKLY ABSORBING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Dicapo

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
3.00
A Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT
Phytic AcidAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Aristoflex® AVC
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/ VP Copolymer
Clariant AG
1.00
C Cosphaderm® E NGM
Lysolecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.50
Cegesoft® SH
Shorea Stenoptera Seed Butter
BASF SE
2.50
C Sunflower Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
C Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
C Softisan® 154
Hydrogenated Palm Oil
IOI Oleo GmbH
1.00
C Cosphaderm® AP
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
C Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
C Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
D Cosphaderm® Dicapo
Caprylyl GlycolGlyceryl CaprylateDipropylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
0.70

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Mix all ingredients together.
Phase B: Slowly add Cosphaderm® X 34 and Aristoflex® AVC under vigorous stirring to phase A.
Continue stirring for approx. 15 min at 500 rpm until complete dissolution. Then heat to 80 °C.
Phase C: Mix all ingredients and heat to 80 °C. Add phase C to phase A+B and
homogenise via vigorous stirring for approx. 10 min.
Phase D: Add Cosphaderm® Dicapo below 40 °C under vigorous stirring.
Adjust pH if necessary.

Specification
Appearance: Shiny, viscous emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

RICH NIGHTCREAM

100.6.1.1

ANTI-POLLUTION. NOURISHING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Hexiol, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural, Cosphaderm® Octiol

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Cosphaderm® Hexiol
1,2-Hexanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
A Cosphaderm® Octiol
Glyceryl Caprylate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
C Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
D Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
8.00
D Sesame Oil
Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
5.00
D Avocado Oil
Persea Gratissima Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
D Rosehip Seed Oil
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
D Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.50
D Cocoa Butter
Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.50
D Lamecreme
Glyceryl StearateGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
-
4.00
D Ecorol® 16/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
1.50
D Cosphaderm® E-1000Ac NON GMO
Tocopherol AcetateHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
D Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
E D-Panthenol 75 %
PanthenolAqua
-
1.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Mix phase A and stir until everything is completely dissolved.
Phase B: Add phase B to phase A and stir until dispersed.
Phase C: Slowly add phase C to phase A+B and stir until complete dissolution.
Phase D: Mix all ingredients of phase D and heat phase A+B+C and D separately to 80 °C.
Add phase D slowly to phase A+B+C while stirring.
Phase E: Add Panthenol to the finished formulation (below 40 °C).
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Shiny, viscous emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

URBAN ANTI-POLLUTION SKIN ELIXIR

100.18.2.1

ANTI-POLLUTION. HIGH SPREADABILITY. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
34.30
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
10.00
A Cosphaderm® X soft
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Cosphaderm® Leo
Dipropylene GlycolEthylhexylglycerinCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
2.70
B Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
4.00
B Babassu Oil
Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
4.00
B Apricot Kernel Oil
Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
4.00
B Sesame Oil
Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
B Evening Primrose Oil
Oenothera Biennis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
B Rosehip Seed Oil
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
B Grape Seed Oil
Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Cosphaderm® E-1000 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Ecorol® 16/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
1.00
C Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
C Demin. Water
Aqua
-
30.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Prepare phase A and stir at 2000 rpm until complete dissolution.
Phase B: Prepare phase B and heat to 50 °C until everything is melted. Let the mixture cool down to
room temperature.
Phase C: Prepare phase C and stir for 10 min at 800 rpm.
Add phase C to phase B and stir at 2000 rpm to emulsify both phases.
Add phase A to phase B+C and homogenise for 3 minutes.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: White, shiny emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

SKIN SMOOTHIE ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.17.2.1

VITAMIN-RICH. VITALISING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® MultiMEG, Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
10.00
A Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
A Lanette® O
Cetearyl Alcohol
BASF SE
2.00
A Macadamia Nut Oil
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
A Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
A Beeswax
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
A Kahlwax 6290
Rhus Verniciflua Cera
Kahl GmbH & Co. KG
1.00
A Cosphaderm® E-1000 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
A Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Imwitor® 375
Glyceryl CitrateLactateLineolateOleate
IOI Oleo GmbH
2.50
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
B Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinAqua, Sodium Levulinate, Potassium SorbateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Juice from mixed fruits/vegetables
(e.g. cucumber, mango, lemon)
-
25.00
B Juice from mixed fruits/vegetables
(e.g. zucchini, papaya, ginger)
-
25.00
B Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
2.00
B Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
5.00
B Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT
Phytic AcidAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
Cosphaderm® MultiMEG
Glyceryl CaprylatePentylene GlycolMagnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
1.60

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A.
Phase B: Prepare Glycerin, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural and Cosphaderm® X 34 first.
Disperse Cosphaderm® X 34 with a stirrer. Peel 50 g fruit/vegetable A and 50 g fruit/vegetable B and crush it separately in a mixer. Filter the crushed fruits in separate beakers. Slowly add the filtered fruits/vegetables and the water to the mixture of Glycerin, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural and Cosphaderm® X 34 under stirring and stir until complete dissolution.
Add remaining ingredients. Heat phase A and B separately to 70 °C and add phase A to phase B under stirring.
Phase C: Add Cosphaderm® MultiMEG below 40 °C. Adjust the pH value to 5.5 ±
0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Light, shiny cream
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

GREEN DETOX MASK

100.2.2.1

MOISTURISING. DETOXIFYING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Dicapo, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Kaolin
Kaolin
-
10.00
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
8.00
A Plantacare® 818 UP
Coco Glucoside
BASF SE
3.00
A Spirulina Powder
Spirulina Platensis Powder
-
2.85
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
1.50
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40
A Titanium Dioxide
CI 77891
-
0.10
B Mango Butter
Mangifera Indica Seed Butter
-
6.00
B PolyAquol®-2W
Polyclyceryl-2-StearateGlyceryl StearateStearyl Alcohol
Innovacos
2.50
B Beeswax
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
B Ecorol® 16/98
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
2.00
B Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
0.10
C Kaolin
Kaolin
-
4.00
C Cosphaderm® EGCg ECONAT
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.05
D Cosphaderm® Dicapo
Caprylyl GlycolGlyceryl CaprylateDipropylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
0.70

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Mix all ingredients together.
Phase B: Mix phase B and heat phase A and B separately to 75 °C. Emulsify phase A+B and homogenise.
Phase C: Add phase C to phase A+B below 40 °C.
Phase D: Add Cosphaderm® Dicapo to the formulation and allow the mixture to cool down.
Adjust pH to 6.0 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Creamy, green mask
pH: 6.0 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

BLACK PEELING MASK ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.26.2.2

PURIFYING. DETOXIFYING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® CA natural, Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Kaolin
Kaolin
-
10.00
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
8.00
A Plantacare® 818 UP
Coco Glucoside
BASF SE
3.00
A Charcoal Powder
Charcoal Powder
-
2.85
A Cosphaderm® CA natural
Cinnamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
A Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinAqua, Sodium Levulinate, Potassium SorbateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.20
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40
B Mango Butter
Mangifera Indica Seed Butter
-
6.00
B PolyAquol®-2W
Polyclyceryl-2-StearateGlyceryl StearateStearyl Alcohol
Innovacos
2.50
B Beeswax
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
B Ecorol® 16/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
2.00
B Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
C Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
D Kaolin
Kaolin
-
5.00
D Lipo® AMS
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Meal
Vantage Speciality Ingredients, Inc.
1.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A except Cosphaderm® CA natural and
Cosphaderm® LA-T and stir for 10 min at 1500 rpm. Add Cosphaderm® CA natural and raise the pH to 11
to dissolve it completely.
Then add Cosphaderm® LA-T to lower the pH again.
Phase B: Prepare phase B and heat phase A and phase B separately to 75 °C.
Add phase B to phase A under thorough stirring with the propeller stirrer and homogenise the mixture.
Phase C: Add Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98 to phase A+B under stirring and below 40 °C.
Phase D: Prepare phase D and add it to the formulation. Let the mask cool down under moderate
stirring.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Black, creamy paste with small exfoliants
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

MOISTURISING MAGNOLIA CREAM GEL ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.13.1.1

ACTIVE AGAINST ACNE. NOURISHING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural, Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Imwitor® 375
Glyceryl CitrateLactateLineolateOleate
IOI Oleo GmbH
0.50
A Babassu Oil
Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
A Macadamia Nut Oil
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
A Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
A Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
A Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.05
B Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
23.25
C Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
3.00
C Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
4.00
C Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
5.00
C Cosphaderm® KG
Amorphophallus Konjac Root Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.80
Demin. Water
Aqua
-
54.90

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Prepare phase A and melt at 50 °C, then cool down to room temperature.
Phase B: Prepare phase B and stir for 10 min.
Phase C: Prepare all ingredients of phase C except water. Slowly add the water under stirring and stir
until complete dissolution.
Combine phase A and B and homogenise. Add phase A+B in slow steps to phase C under thorough
stirring with the propeller stirrer.
Adjust pH to 5.5 – 6.0 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Shiny, viscous emulsion
pH: 5.5 – 6.0 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

DAILY FACIAL CREAM

100.59.1.1

MOISTURISING. CARING. HYDRATING.

Preservation: Cosphagard® Pol

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
3.00
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Cosphagard® Pol
AquaAqua, Sodium Levulinate, Potassium SorbatePotassium Sorbate
Cosphatec GmbH
1.50
B Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
5.00
B Imwitor® 372P
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
IOI Oleo GmbH
2.50
B Witarix® 60/40
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
IOI Oleo GmbH
5.00
B Softisan® 154
Hydrogenated Palm Oil
IOI Oleo GmbH
1.00
B Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
5.00
B Ecorol® 16/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
2.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and stir until everything is completely dissolved.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients of phase B.
Heat both phases separately to 70 °C and add phase B to A while stirring very fast.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: White cream
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

Cleansing

SOFT CREAM SOAP

300.47.2.1

CLEANSING. FOAMING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Sodium LAAS, Cosphaderm® PhP

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
5.00
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT
Phytic AcidAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A U20 Carbopol® Ultrez 21 Polymer
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Lubrizol
0.40
A Cosphaderm® Sodium LAAS
Aqua, Sodium Levulinate, Potassium SorbateSodium Anisate
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Texapon® NSO UP
Sodium Laureth Sulfat
BASF SE
15.00
B Plantacare® 818 UP
Coco Glucoside
BASF SE
12.00
B Sunflower Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
C Cosphaderm® PhP
Phenylpropanol
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30

Manufacturing Process
This formulation can be prepared at room temperature.
Phase A: Combine all ingredients and stir until everything is completely dissolved.
Phase B: Combine phase B separately and add phase B to phase A under soft stirring. Stir until both
phases are mixed.
Phace C: Add Cosphaderm® PhP to phase A+B. Adjust th pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Transparent liquid
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

PURIFYING CLEANSING LOTION

300.32.3.1

MAKE-UP REMOVING. PURIFYING. CLEANSING.

Preservation: Cosphagard® Pol, Cosphaderm® GMCY

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
10.00
A Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
12.00
A Lanette® O
Cetearyl Alcohol
BASF SE
5.00
A Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
A Cosphaderm® GMCY
Glyceryl Caprylate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
B Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
2.00
B Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT
Phytic AcidAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Cosphagard® Pol
AquaAqua, Sodium Levulinate, Potassium SorbatePotassium Sorbate
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
C D-Panthenol 75 %
PanthenolAqua
-
1.00
C Ronacare® Allantoin
Allantoin
Merck KGaA
0.50

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Prepare phase A and heat to 65 °C.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients except Cosphaderm® X 34. Slowly add Cosphaderm® X 34 to phase B
under stirring.
Stir until complete dissolution. Then heat phase A and phase B separately to 65 °C. Add phase B to
phase A to emulsify both phases. Stir until the formulation is cooled down.
Phase C: Add phase C below 30 °C and stir until everything is mixed.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05 if necessary.

Specification
Appearance: White gel
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

SOOTHING 2IN1 MAKE-UP REMOVER

300.11.1.1

SOOTHING. MAKE-UP REMOVING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Hexiol, Cosphaderm® Pentiol GL

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
5.00
A Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT
Phytic AcidAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Plantacare® 2000 UP
Decyl Glucoside
BASF SE
0.30
B Cosphaderm® Hexiol
1,2-Hexanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® CHA
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.15
B Cosphaderm® Pentiol GL
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
C Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
20.00
C Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
C Oil-soluble Colour
-
q.s
C Perfume
Parfum
-
q.s.

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Mix all ingredients of phase A under slow stirring.
Phase B: Mix all ingredients of phase B until everything is completely dissolved and add B to phase A.
Adjust the pH of phase A+B to 5.5 ± 0.05.
Phase C: Mix all ingredients of phase C and add the mixture to phase A+B without stirring.

Specification
Appearance: Two-phase system with coloured oil phase on top of translucent water phase
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven

FACIAL CLEANSING LOTION ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

300.57.1.1

NURTURING. NATURALLY ACTIVE AGAINST ACNE. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® TOM, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
74.05
A Cosphagard® SA natural
Salicylic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
A Sodium Hydroxide Solution (10 %)
AquaAqua, Sodium Hydroxide
-
q.s.
A Citric Acid Solution (10 %)
AquaAqua, Citric Acid
-
q.s.
B Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
2.00
B Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
5.00
B Cosphaderm® X soft
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
C Coconut Oil
Coco Nucifera Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
4.50
C Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
C Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
4.00
C Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
C Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
C Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
C Imwitor 960 K
Glyceryl Stearate SE
IOI Oleo GmbH
4.00
D Aloe Vera Powder
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
-
0.25
D Cosphaderm® TOM
Pentylene GlycolGlyceryl CaprylateGlyceryl Undecylenate
Cosphatec GmbH
1.60

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine water and Cosphagard® SA natural and raise the pH value to 10 – 11. Stir until complete
dissolution. Afterwards lower the pH to approximately 6.
Phase B: Combine all of the ingredients and stir with a stirring rod until the powder is moistened.
Add phase A to phase B while stirring at medium speed to avoid air bubbles. If everything is dissolved
heat the mixture to 70 °C.
Phase C: Add all ingredients of phase C and heat to 70 °C.
Add phase C to A+B and homogenise for 3 – 5 minutes at 10,000 rpm. Then stir with propeller stirrer until
the emulsion is cooled down to <40 °C.
Phase D: Add aloe vera powder and Cosphaderm® TOM to the emulsion and stir until completely cooled
down to room temperature. Adjust pH to 6.0 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Light beige emulsion
pH: 6.0 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

CREAMY BODY WASH ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

300.50.1.1

FOAMING. CLEANSING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Sodium LAAS, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
2.00
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.70
A Cosphaderm® Sodium LAAS
Aqua, Sodium Levulinate, Potassium SorbateSodium Anisate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.92
B Perlastan® SC
Sodium/Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate
Schill + Seilacher Struktol GmbH
9.50
B Plantacare® 1200 UP
Lauryl Glucoside
BASF SE
7.00
B Texapon® K 30 UP
Sodium Coco Sulfate
BASF SE
6.50
B Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
C 25 % Sodium Chloride Solution
AquaAqua, Sodium Chloride
-
16.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients and stir until Cosphaderm® X 34 is completely dissolved.
Phase B: Combine phase B and add phase B to phase A under slow stirring.
Phase C: Add phase C to phase A+B to thicken the formulation.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Milky, white gel
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05.
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

Bodycare

MOISTURISING BODY YOGHURT

200.9.1.1

HIGH SPREADABILITY. LIGHT SKIN FEEL. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Dicapo

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
13.00
A Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Imwitor® 375
Glyceryl CitrateLactateLineolateOleate
IOI Oleo GmbH
0.50
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
3.00
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
B Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
B Carbopol® Ultrez-21
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Lubrizol
0.30
B Cosphaderm® Dicapo
Caprylyl GlycolGlyceryl CaprylateDipropylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
0.70

Manufacturing Process
This formulation can be prepared at room temperature.
Phase A: Mix all ingredients of phase A under stirring.
Phase B: Mix all ingredients of phase B under stirring. Add phase A into phase B and homogenise until
everything is dissolved. Adjust the pH to 6.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: White cream
pH: 6.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

SILKY SOFT LOTION

200.16.1.2

MILD. LIGHT SKIN FEEL. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Cosphaderm® Leo
Dipropylene GlycolEthylhexylglycerinCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
2.40
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
5.00
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
C Lamecreme
Glyceryl StearateGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
-
3.00
C Lanette® O
Cetearyl Alcohol
BASF SE
1.00
C Imwitor® 491
Glyceryl Monostearate
IOI Oleo GmbH
2.00
Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
20.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A.
Phase B: Slowly add Cosphaderm® X 34 to phase A under stirring and stir until complete dissolution.
Phase C: Prepare phase C and heat phase A+B and C separately to 80 °C. Add phase C to phase A+B
and homogenise the formulation.
Adjust pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: White, shiny emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

RICH & SOFT HANDCREAM ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

200.4.1.2

REGENERATING. SOFT SKIN FEEL. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® MultiMEG

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
2.00
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.25
C Lamecreme
Glyceryl StearateGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
-
2.50
C Montanov™ 68
Cetearyl AlcoholCetearyl Glycoside
SEPPIC, S.A.
2.00
C Tegomuls
Hydrogenated Palm Glyceride
-
0.50
C Ecorol® 18/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
1.00
C Beeswax
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
0.50
C Carnauba Wax
Cera Carnauba
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
C Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
C Sunflower Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
C Peach Kernel Oil
Prunus Persica Kernel Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.50
C Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
C Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
C Cosphaderm® AP
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
C Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
D Cosphaderm® MultiMEG
Glyceryl CaprylatePentylene GlycolMagnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
1.20

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Mix all ingredients together.
Phase B: Slowly add Cosphaderm® X 34 to phase A under strong stirring. Continue stirring for approx.
15 min at 500 rpm until complete dissolution. Then heat to 80 °C.
Phase C: Mix all ingredients together and heat to 80 °C.
Phase C: Add phase C to phase A+B and homogenise for approx. 1 min using Ultra-Turrax. Cool down
under medium stirring.
Phase D: Add Cosphaderm® MultiMEG below 40 °C under vigorous stirring.
Adjust pH if necessary.

Specification
Appearance: White, shiny, viscous emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

WARMING FOOTCREAM

200.36.1.1

WARMING. BOOSTING BLOOD CIRCULATION. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural, Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98, Cosphaderm® GMCY

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
3.00
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
A Urea
Urea
-
10.00
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
C Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
8.00
C Lanette® O
Cetearyl Alcohol
BASF SE
3.00
C Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
8.00
C Carnauba Wax
Cera Carnauba
Gustav Heess GmbH
5.00
C Beeswax
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
8.00
C Cosphaderm® VBE
Vanillyl Butyl Ether
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
C Cosphaderm® GMCY
Glyceryl Caprylate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.80
C Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
C Lamecreme
Glyceryl StearateGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
-
5.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A.
Phase B: Slowly add Cosphaderm® X 34 to phase A under stirring and stir until complete dissolution.
Phase C: Prepare phase C. Heat phase A+B and phase C separately to 75 °C. Then add phase C to
phase A+B while stirring and let the formulation cool down.
Adjust pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Shiny, white cream
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

Special Care

FACE CREAM FOR MEN

600.56.2.1

BOOSTING. LIGHT SKIN FEEL. HYDRATING.

Preservation: Cosphagard® Elbe, Cosphaderm® GMCY

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
9.00
A Coconut Oil
Cocos Nucifera Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
A Shea Butter
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
A Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
1.50
A Sunflower Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
A Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
A Macadamia Oil
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.50
A Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Ecorol® 16/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
1.00
A Imwitor® 372P
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
IOI Oleo GmbH
3.00
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
B Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40
B Ronacare® Allantoin
Allantoin
Merck KGaA
0.20
B Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate high
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
C Aloe Vera Powder
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
-
0.20
C D-Panthenol 75 %
PanthenolAqua
-
0.50
C Cosphaderm® GMCY
Glyceryl Caprylate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40
C Cosphagard® Elbe
AquaAqua, Sodium Levulinate, Potassium SorbateSodium Benzoate
Cosphatec GmbH
2.50

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and heat to 80 °C.
Phase B: Combine all of the liquid ingredients and add the powders while stirring.
Then heat to 80 °C.
Afterwards combine phase A and B and homogenise the mixture.
Phase C: Add phase C to the formulation (<40 °C) and stir.
Homogenise a second time if needed.
Adjust pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: White, shiny emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

FRESH & COOL AFTERSHAVE

600.37.1.1

COOLING. SOOTHING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® MultiMEG, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
3.00
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Ronacare® Allantoin
Allantoin
Merck KGaA
0.20
A Aristoflex® AVC
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/ VP Copolymer
Clariant AG
0.50
B Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
3.50
B Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
4.00
B Olive Oil
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
B Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B Avocado Oil
Persea Gratissima Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B Sesame Oil
Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B Carotene Oil
Glycine Soja (A)beta-carotene
-
0.05
B Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B Cocoa Butter
Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
0.20
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
B Lamecreme
Glyceryl StearateGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
-
4.00
B Camphor
Camphora RacemicaCamphora Synthetica
-
0.10
C Ethanol
Alcohol
Carl Roth GmbH & Co. KG
0.60
C Menthol
Menthol
FREY&LAU GmbH
0.70
D Cosphaderm® MultiMEG
Glyceryl CaprylatePentylene GlycolMagnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
1.60

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Add Allantoin to water and heat to 40 °C. Stir until complete dissolution. Add Glycerin and
Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural. While stirring add Cosphaderm® X 34. Stir until complete
dissolution. Then add Aristoflex® AVC and stir until complete dissolution.
Phase B: Prepare phase B and separately heat phase A and phase B to 80 °C.
Add phase B to phase A while stirring.
Phase C+D: Add phase C and D below 40 °C.
Adjust pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Yellowish cream
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

CALMING BABY CREAM ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

NATURALLY MILD. SOOTHING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® CA natural, Cosphaderm® GMCY

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
3.00
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
A Cosphaderm® CA natural
Cinnamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate high
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Sodium Hydroxide Solution (10 %)
AquaAqua, Sodium Hydroxide
-
q.s.
B Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
B Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
B Argan Oil
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B PolyAquol®-2W
Polyclyceryl-2-StearateGlyceryl StearateStearyl Alcohol
Innovacos
2.50
B Ecorol® 16/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
1.00
B Beeswax
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
B Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Cosphaderm® GMCY
Glyceryl Caprylate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
C Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinAqua, Sodium Levulinate, Potassium SorbateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
C Citric Acid Solution (10 %)
AquaAqua, Citric Acid
-
q.s

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and raise the pH to 11 under stirring to dissolve
Cosphaderm® CA natural. Then heat phase A to 80 °C.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients and heat to 80 °C. Add then phase B to phase A under strong
stirring.
Add phase C to the finished formulation. Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: White cream
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

PROTECTIVE BABY CREAM ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

500.24.2.3

SKIN PROTECTING. SENSITIVE. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Sodium LAAS

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Babassu Oil
Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
4.00
A Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond)
Gustav Heess GmbH
12.00
A Sesame Oil
Sesamum Indicum (Sesame)
Gustav Heess GmbH
6.00
A Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
10.00
A Organic Sheabutter
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
15.00
Beeswax
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
9.00
A Lanolin
Lanolin
-
19.00
A Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
B Cosphaderm® Sodium LAAS
Aqua, Sodium Levulinate, Potassium SorbateSodium Anisate
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
23.50

Manufacturing Process
Combine all ingredients of phase A and B in separate beakers. Adjust the pH of the water to
5.5 ± 0.05. Then, heat both phases separately to 70 °C. Add slowly the water to phase A under
soft stirring.

Specification
Appearance: Yellowish cream
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)