FORMULATIONS

MODERN COSMETICS FOR AMBITIOUS FORMULATORS

We understand the requirements and issues of cosmetic formulators. That’s why we spend a lot of time with application technology in our in-house laboratory. Here we investigate the incorporation and effect of raw materials in order to offer our customers the best possible support and appropriate recommendations.

We have provided a selected set of formulations for you to download here – enjoy!

HairCare

DETANGLE SHAMPOO ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

400.46.1.1

CONDITIONING. DETANGLING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® GeMix, Cosphaderm® CA natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Cosphaderm® GeMix
Glyceryl CaprylateGlyceryl Undecylenate
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
A SOFTISAN® conditionHAIR
PCA Glyceryl Oleate
IOI Oleo GmbH
0.50
A Perlastan® SC
Sodium/Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate
Schill + Seilacher Struktol GmbH
10.00
A Plantacare® 818 UP
Coco Glucoside
BASF SE
10.00
A Plantacare® 1200 UP
Lauryl Glucoside
BASF SE
2.00
A Witarix® 60/40
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
IOI Oleo GmbH
0.30
A Cosphaderm® CA natural
Cinnamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
3.00
B Cosphaderm® X soft
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
71.90
B Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT
Phytic AcidAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and stir slowly until Cosphaderm® CA natural is completely
dissolved.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients of phase B and stir until Cosphaderm® X soft is dissolved.
Heat both phases separately to 50 °C and add phase B to phase A under thorough stirring with
the propeller stirrer. Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Milky, white gel
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

FaceCare

ANTI SPOT GEL ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.70.1.1

ANTI INFLAMMATORY. CLARIFYING. PORE SIZE REDUCING.

Preservation: Cosphagard® SA natural, Cosphaderm® Zinc Lactate natural, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
88.20
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
5.00
A Cosphagard® SA natural
Salicylic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
B Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
2.50
B Cosphaderm® X soft
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.70
B Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate high
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
C Cosphaderm® Zinc Lactate natural
Zinc lactate
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
C Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Water
Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Water
-
0.50

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A. Raise the pH to 11 to dissolve Cosphagard® SA natural. When everything is dissolved, lower the pH back to 4-5 again.
Phase B: Combine Glycerin, Cosphaderm® X 34 and Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate high and stir until the powder is wetted. Then add it to phase A.
Phase C: Add phase C under stirring.
Adjust the pH to 4.0 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Transparent, clear gel
pH: 4.0 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

URBAN ANTI-POLLUTION SKIN ELIXIR

100.18.2.1

ANTI-POLLUTION. HIGH SPREADABILITY. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
34.30
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
10.00
A Cosphaderm® X soft
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Cosphaderm® Leo
Dipropylene GlycolEthylhexylglycerinCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
2.70
B Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
4.00
B Babassu Oil
Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
4.00
B Apricot Kernel Oil
Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
4.00
B Sesame Oil
Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
B Evening Primrose Oil
Oenothera Biennis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
B Rosehip Seed Oil
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
B Grape Seed Oil
Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Cosphaderm® E-1000 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Ecorol® 16/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
1.00
C Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
C Demin. Water
Aqua
-
30.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Prepare phase A and stir at 2000 rpm until complete dissolution.
Phase B: Prepare phase B and heat to 50 °C until everything is melted. Let the mixture cool down to
room temperature.
Phase C: Prepare phase C and stir for 10 min at 800 rpm.
Add phase C to phase B and stir at 2000 rpm to emulsify both phases.
Add phase A to phase B+C and homogenise for 3 minutes.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: White, shiny emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

VITALISING SKIN GEL (A) ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.28.2.1

QUICKLY ABSORBING. RICH SKIN FEEL. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® Sodium pAS natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
4.00
A Cosphaderm® X soft
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Demin. Water
Aqua
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
59.70
A Cosphaderm® Sodium pAS natural
Sodium Anisate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40
B Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinSodium LevulinateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.20
C Demin. Water
Aqua
-
22.50
C Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
3.50
C Sunflower Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
5.00
C Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Prepare phase A and stir until everything is completely dissolved.
Phase B: Add very slowly Cosphaderm® LA-T to phase A under stirring.
Phase C: Prepare phase C and homogenise for 5 minutes with high performance disperser
(stator/rotor) at max. speed.
Add phase C to phase A+B in small steps under stirring.
Adjust pH value to 5.5 ± 0.5.

Specification
Appearance: Shiny emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

VITALISING SKIN GEL (B) ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.28.3.1

QUICKLY ABSORBING. RICH SKIN FEEL. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® pAS natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
4.00
A Cosphaderm® X soft
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Demin. Water
Aqua
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
59.70
A Cosphaderm® pAS natural
p-Anisic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40
B Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinSodium LevulinateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.20
C Demin. Water
Aqua
-
22.50
C Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
3.50
C Sunflower Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
5.00
C Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Prepare phase A. Raise the pH to 10 to dissolve Cosphaderm® pAS natural and stir until everything is completely dissolved.
Phase B: Add very slowly Cosphaderm® LA-T to phase A under stirring.
Phase C: Prepare phase C and homogenise for 5 minutes with high performance disperser
(stator/rotor) at max. speed.
Add phase C to phase A+B in small steps under stirring.
Adjust pH value to 5.5 ± 0.5.

Specification
Appearance: Shiny emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

VITALISING SKIN GEL (C)

100.28.4.1

QUICKLY ABSORBING. RICH SKIN FEEL. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® AS

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
4.00
A Cosphaderm® X soft
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Demin. Water
Aqua
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
59.70
A Cosphaderm® AS
p-Anisic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40
B Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinSodium LevulinateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.20
C Demin. Water
Aqua
-
22.50
C Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
3.50
C Sunflower Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
5.00
C Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Prepare phase A. Raise the pH to 10 to dissolve Cosphaderm® pAS natural and stir until everything is completely dissolved.
Phase B: Add very slowly Cosphaderm® LA-T to phase A under stirring.
Phase C: Prepare phase C and homogenise for 5 minutes with high performance disperser (stator/rotor) at max. speed.
Add phase C to phase A+B in small steps under stirring.
Adjust pH value to 5.5 ± 0.5.

Specification
Appearance: Shiny emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

AFTER-SUN GEL

100.54.2.1

COOLING. STRESS-RELIEVING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® CA natural, Cosphaderm® Pentiol GL

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Cosphaderm® X soft
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
5.00
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A D-Panthenol 75 %
PanthenolAqua
-
1.00
A Cosphaderm® Pentiol GL
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
B Cosphaderm® CA natural
Cinnamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Witch Hazel Water
Hamamelis virginiana water
-
10.00
Ronacare® Allantoin
Allantoin
Merck KGaA
0.20
B Aloe Vera Powder
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
-
0.50
B Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinSodium LevulinateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and mix with a stirring rod, then set aside.
Phase B: Add Cosphaderm® CA natural, witch hazel water, allantoin and aloe vera powder to the water
and increase the pH value to 9 – 10. Stir until the powder has dissolved completely. Afterwards, add
Cosphaderm® LA-T to the mixture.
Add phase B to phase A and stir until a slightly viscous gel is formed.
Adjust pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Yellowish, clear, slightly viscous gel
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

Cleansing

HYGIENIC HAND GEL ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

300.66.1.1

DISINFECTING. NON-STICKY. FAST ABSORBING.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
49.60
A Cosphaderm® X soft
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40
B Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
20.00
C Ethanol
Alcohol
-
30.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Add Cosphaderm® X soft to the water and stir until it’s completely dissolved.
Phase B: Add phase B in small steps to phase A while stirring at 1500rpm.
Phase C: Add phase C in small steps to phase A+B while stirring at 1500rpm.
Adjust the pH to 7.0 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: translucent, viscous gel
pH: 7.0 ± 0.05

Tested against bacteria according to DIN EN 1500, 1276, 1650.

FACIAL CLEANSING LOTION ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

300.57.1.1

NURTURING. NATURALLY ACTIVE AGAINST ACNE. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® TOM, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
74.05
A Cosphagard® SA natural
Salicylic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
A Sodium Hydroxide Solution (10 %)
AquaSodium Hydroxide
-
q.s.
A Citric Acid Solution (10 %)
AquaCitric Acid
-
q.s.
B Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
2.00
B Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
5.00
B Cosphaderm® X soft
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
C Coconut Oil
Coco Nucifera Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
4.50
C Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
C Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
4.00
C Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
C Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
C Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
C Imwitor 960 K
Glyceryl Stearate SE
IOI Oleo GmbH
4.00
D Aloe Vera Powder
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
-
0.25
D Cosphaderm® TOM
Pentylene GlycolGlyceryl CaprylateGlyceryl Undecylenate
Cosphatec GmbH
1.60

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine water and Cosphagard® SA natural and raise the pH value to 10 – 11. Stir until complete
dissolution. Afterwards lower the pH to approximately 6.
Phase B: Combine all of the ingredients and stir with a stirring rod until the powder is moistened.
Add phase A to phase B while stirring at medium speed to avoid air bubbles. If everything is dissolved
heat the mixture to 70 °C.
Phase C: Add all ingredients of phase C and heat to 70 °C.
Add phase C to A+B and homogenise for 3 – 5 minutes at 10,000 rpm. Then stir with propeller stirrer until
the emulsion is cooled down to <40 °C.
Phase D: Add aloe vera powder and Cosphaderm® TOM to the emulsion and stir until completely cooled
down to room temperature. Adjust pH to 6.0 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Light beige emulsion
pH: 6.0 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)