FORMULATIONS

MODERN COSMETICS FOR AMBITIOUS FORMULATORS

We understand the requirements and issues of cosmetic formulators. That’s why we spend a lot of time with application technology in our in-house laboratory. Here we investigate the incorporation and effect of raw materials in order to offer our customers the best possible support and appropriate recommendations.

We have provided a selected set of formulations for you to download here – enjoy!

FaceCare

HYDRATING SOFT CREAM ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.75.1.2

MOISTURISING. PROTECTING. SOOTHING.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Pocal

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
74.60
A Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
3.00
A RonaCare® Niacinamide
Niacinamide
Merck KGaA
3.50
A Cosphaderm® KG
Amorphophallus Konjac Root Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Imwitor 960 K
Glyceryl Stearate SE
IOI Oleo GmbH
2.00
B Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
-
1.00
B Babassu Oil
Orbignya Oleifera (Babassu) Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
6.00
B Squalane
Squalane
-
3.00
B Myristyl Myristate
Myristyl Myristate
-
2.00
B Stearic Acid
Stearic Acid
-
1.00
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Ecorol® 16/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
1.00
C Cosphaderm® Pocal
PropanediolCaprylyl GlycolCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
C CORN PO4 PH “B“
Distarch Phosphate
Agrana
2.00

MANUFACTURING PROCESS
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and stir until everything is completely dissolved.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients of phase B.
Heat both phases separately to 75 °C and add phase B to A while homogenising.
Phase C: Add phase C to phase A/B under stirring.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

SPECIFICATION
Appearance:  white emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

ELASTIC JELLY MASK ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.20.1.1

MOISTURISING. REFRESHING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
4.00
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.60
A Cosphaderm® KG
Amorphophallus Konjak Root Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.60
A Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
5.00
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
59.80
B Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
2.50
B Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
5.00
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
22.50

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Mix all ingredients except water, then add water and stir until everything is completely
dissolved.
Phase B: Mix all ingredients and homogenise on high-speed for 5 minutes.
Add phase B to A slowly while gently stirring for 10 minutes.
Adjust the pH to 5.45 – 5.55.
Heat the mixture to 90 – 100 °C and keep this temperature for 2 – 3 minutes (Warning: Lecithins are heat
sensitive. Therefore, the process of heating should be kept to a minimum!).
Pour the hot mixture into a suitable mould as fast as possible and let it cool down.

Specification
Appearance: White to off-white gel
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven

HYDRO JELLY MASK

100.21.3.1

INTENSIVELY HYDRATING. RELAXING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Hexiol, Cosphaderm® Pentiol GL, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
5.00
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Cosphaderm® KG
Amorphophallus Konjac Root Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
C Cosphaderm® Pentiol GL
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
5.00
C Cosphaderm® Hexiol
1,2-Hexanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
C Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
5.00
C Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
D Cosmetic Colour
-
q.s.

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Prepare phase A and stir until dispersed.
Phase B: Slowly add the water to phase A under stirring and stir until complete dissolution.
Phase C: Prepare phase C and stir for 10 minutes. Add phase C to phase A+B and adjust pH
to 5.5 – 6.0 ± 0.05.
Phase D: Add colour if wanted.
Heat the mixture to its boiling point and keep this temperature for 2 – 3 minutes.
Quickly pour the hot mixture into a casting mould and let it cool.

Specification
Appearance: Translucent or coloured, elastic gel
pH: 5.5 – 6.0 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

MOISTURISING MAGNOLIA CREAM GEL ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.13.1.1

ACTIVE AGAINST ACNE. NOURISHING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural, Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Imwitor® 375
Glyceryl CitrateLactateLineolateOleate
IOI Oleo GmbH
0.50
A Babassu Oil
Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
A Macadamia Nut Oil
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
A Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
A Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
A Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.05
B Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
23.25
C Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
3.00
C Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
4.00
C Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
5.00
C Cosphaderm® KG
Amorphophallus Konjac Root Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.80
Demin. Water
Aqua
-
54.90

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Prepare phase A and melt at 50 °C, then cool down to room temperature.
Phase B: Prepare phase B and stir for 10 min.
Phase C: Prepare all ingredients of phase C except water. Slowly add the water under stirring and stir
until complete dissolution.
Combine phase A and B and homogenise. Add phase A+B in slow steps to phase C under thorough
stirring with the propeller stirrer.
Adjust pH to 5.5 – 6.0 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Shiny, viscous emulsion
pH: 5.5 – 6.0 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

Cleansing

JELLY SOAP

300.22.1.2

CLEANSING. FOAMING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Hexiol, Cosphaderm® Octiol, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
5.00
A Cosphaderm® Hexiol
1,2-Hexanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
A Cosphaderm® Octiol
Caprylyl Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Cosphaderm® KG
Amorphophallus Konjac Root Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
C Plantacare® 810 UP
Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
BASF SE
2.00
C Texapon® NSO UP
Sodium Laureth Sulfate
BASF SE
5.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Prepare phase A and stir until dispersed.
Phase B: Slowly add the water to phase A under stirring and stir until complete dissolution.
If wanted, add heat-proof colour.
Phase C: Prepare phase C, adjust the pH to 5.5 ±0.05 and set aside.
Heat phase A+B to its boiling point while stirring slowly on a heating magnetic stirrer. Keep this temperature
for 5 min. It is essential to use a heating magnetic stirrer, otherwise the jelly will be unstable.
Add phase C to the hot phase A+B. Continue stirring on the heating magnetic stirrer until everything is
combined.
Quickly pour the warm mixture into moulds and let it cool down.

Specification
Appearance: Clear, solid, elastic jelly
pH: 5.5 – 6.5
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)