FORMULATIONS

MODERN COSMETICS FOR AMBITIOUS FORMULATORS

We understand the requirements and issues of cosmetic formulators. That’s why we spend a lot of time with application technology in our in-house laboratory. Here we investigate the incorporation and effect of raw materials in order to offer our customers the best possible support and appropriate recommendations.

We have provided a selected set of formulations for you to download here – enjoy!

FaceCare

MOISTURISING MAGNOLIA CREAM GEL ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.13.1.1

ACTIVE AGAINST ACNE. NOURISHING. LIGHT AND SOFT TEXTURE.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural, Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Imwitor® 375
Glyceryl CitrateLactateLineolateOleate
IOI Oleo GmbH
0.50
A Babassu Oil
Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
A Macadamia Nut Oil
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
A Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
A Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
A Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.05
B Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
23.25
C Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
3.00
C Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
4.00
C Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
5.00
C Cosphaderm® KG
Amorphophallus Konjac Root Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.80
C Demin. Water
Aqua
-
54.90

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Prepare phase A and melt at 50 °C, then cool down to room temperature.
Phase B: Prepare phase B and stir for 10 min.
Phase C: Prepare all ingredients of phase C except water. Slowly add the water under stirring and stir
until complete dissolution.
Combine phase A and B and homogenise. Add phase A+B in slow steps to phase C under thorough
stirring with the propeller stirrer.
Adjust pH to 5.5 – 6.0 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Shiny, viscous emulsion
pH: 5.5 – 6.0 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

ELASTIC JELLY MASK ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.20.1.1

MOISTURISING. SOOTHING. CALMING.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
4.00
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.60
A Cosphaderm® KG
Amorphophallus Konjak Root Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.60
A Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
5.00
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
59.80
B Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
2.50
B Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
5.00
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
22.50

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Mix all ingredients except water, then add water and stir until everything is completely
dissolved.
Phase B: Mix all ingredients and homogenise on high-speed for 5 minutes.
Add phase B to A slowly while gently stirring for 10 minutes.
Adjust the pH to 5.45 – 5.55.
Heat the mixture to 90 – 100 °C and keep this temperature for 2 – 3 minutes (Warning: Lecithins are heat
sensitive. Therefore, the process of heating should be kept to a minimum!).
Pour the hot mixture into a suitable mould as fast as possible and let it cool down.

Specification
Appearance: White to off-white gel
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven

HYDRO JELLY MASK

100.21.3.1

INTENSIVELY HYDRATING. RELAXING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Hexiol, Cosphaderm® Pentiol GL, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
5.00
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Cosphaderm® KG
Amorphophallus Konjac Root Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
82.80
C Cosphaderm® Pentiol GL
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
5.00
C Cosphaderm® Hexiol
1,2-Hexanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
C Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
5.00
C Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Prepare phase A and stir until dispersed.
Phase B: Slowly add the water to phase A under stirring and stir until complete dissolution.
Phase C: Prepare phase C and stir for 10 minutes. Add phase C to phase A+B and adjust pH
to 5.5 – 6.0 ± 0.05.
Phase D: Add colour if wanted.
Heat the mixture to its boiling point and keep this temperature for 2 – 3 minutes.
Quickly pour the hot mixture into a casting mould and let it cool.

Specification
Appearance: Translucent or coloured, elastic gel
pH: 5.5 – 6.0 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

JELLY EYE PATCHES

100.88.1.1

HYDRATING. REFRESHING. ANTI-AGEING.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Heptiol natural, Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
87.60
A Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
4.00
A Cosphaderm® Heptiol natural
1,2-Heptanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
A Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
3.00
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate high
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Cosphaderm® KG
Amorphophallus Konjac Root Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A RonaCare® Nicotinamide
Niacinamide
Merck KGaA
3.00
B Cosmetic Colour
-
q.s.

MANUFACTURING PROCESS
Phase A: Prepare phase A and stir until dispersed. Adjust the pH to 6.5 ± 0.05.
Phase B: Add colour if wanted.
Heat the mixture to 80-90°C and keep this temperature for 2 – 3 minutes.
Quickly pour the hot mixture into a casting mould and let it cool.

SPECIFICATION
Appearance: Translucent or coloured, elastic gel
pH: 6.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

HairCare

POWDER TO FOAM SHAMPOO ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

400.89.1.1

WATERLESS. INSTANT WATER-ACTIVATED FORMULATION FOR IMMEDIATE USE. CLEAN BEAUTY.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Zinc Lactate

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate
Berg + Schmidt GmbH & Co. KG
53.00
A Sorbitol
Sorbitol
-
10.00
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
A Cosphaderm® KG
Amorphophallus Konjac Root Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
A Cosphaderm® Zinc Lactate natural
Zinc Lactate
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
A Citric Acid
Citric Acid
-
0.80
A Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
-
1.50
A Magnesium Stearate
Magnesium Stearate
-
10.00
A Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
A CORN PO4 PH “B“
Distarch Phosphate
Agrana
10.00
A Sensocel® bc 20
Cellulose
CFF GmbH & Co. KG
5.00
B Sunflower Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20

MANUFACTURING PROCESS
Phase A: Mix all ingredients together and stir until homogeneous.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients and add phase B to A while stirring.

SPECIFICATION
Appearance: White powder
Stability: Microbiological stability proven (Water activity value less than 0.75)

Cleansing

JELLY SOAP

300.22.1.2

CLEANSING. FOAMING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Hexiol, Cosphaderm® Octiol, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
5.00
A Cosphaderm® Hexiol
1,2-Hexanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
A Cosphaderm® Octiol
Caprylyl Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Cosphaderm® KG
Amorphophallus Konjac Root Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
83.50
C Plantacare® 810 UP
Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
BASF SE
2.00
C Texapon® NSO UP
Sodium Laureth Sulfate
BASF SE
5.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Prepare phase A and stir until dispersed.
Phase B: Slowly add the water to phase A under stirring and stir until complete dissolution.
If wanted, add heat-proof colour.
Phase C: Prepare phase C, adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05 and set aside.
Heat phase A+B to its boiling point and keep this temperature for 2 – 3 min.
Add phase C to the hot phase A+B. Continue stirring until everything is combined.
Quickly pour the warm mixture into moulds and let it cool down.

Specification
Appearance: Clear, solid, elastic jelly
pH: 5.5 – 6.5
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

NATURAL JELLY SOAP ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

300.96.1.1

MILD. CLEANSING. FOAMING.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural, Cosphaderm® Sodium LAAS

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
5.00
A Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
A Cosphaderm® KG
Amorphophallus Konjac Root Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
69.50
B Perlastan® SC
Sodium/Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate
Schill + Seilacher Struktol GmbH
8.00
B Plantacare® 818 UP
Coco Glucoside
BASF SE
12.00
B SOFTISAN® conditionHAIR
PCA Glyceryl Oleate
IOI Oleo GmbH
0.50
C Cosphaderm® Sodium LAAS
Sodium LevulinateSodium Anisate
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00

MANUFACTURING PROCESS
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and stir until dispersed.
Phase B: Prepare phase B and lower the pH to ~ 5.5.
Add phase C and phase A to phase B.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Heat the prepared solution to 80 – 90 °C and stir at this temperature for 2 – 3 min.
Quickly pour the warm mixture into moulds and let it cool down.

SPECIFICATION
Appearance: Clear, solid, elastic jelly
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)