FORMULATIONS

MODERN COSMETICS FOR AMBITIOUS FORMULATORS

We understand the requirements and issues of cosmetic formulators. That’s why we spend a lot of time with application technology in our in-house laboratory. Here we investigate the incorporation and effect of raw materials in order to offer our customers the best possible support and appropriate recommendations.

We have provided a selected set of formulations for you to download here – enjoy!

FaceCare

RICH MOISTURISER ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.42.2.1

NOURISHING. HYDRATING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® CA natural, Cosphaderm® GeMix

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
-
ad 100
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
5.00
A Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT
Phytic AcidAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Cosphaderm® CA natural
Cinnamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
C Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
C Argan Oil
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
C Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
C Imwitor® 372P
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
IOI Oleo GmbH
2.00
D Cosphaderm® GeMix
Glyceryl CaprylateGlyceryl Undecylenate
Cosphatec GmbH
1.20

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A under stirring. Stir until Cosphaderm® X 34 is completely
dissolved. Raise the pH to 11 to dissolve Cosphaderm® CA natural.
Phase B: Add Cosphaderm® SF-75H to phase A under stirring and let it soak for 10 minutes. Then heat
phase A+B to 80 °C.
Phase C: Combine all ingredients of phase C and heat to 80 °C. Add then phase C to phase A+B under
strong stirring and homogenise the formulation.
Phase D: Add Cosphaderm® GeMix below 40 °C.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: White cream
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

MOISTURISING FACE GEL

100.29.1.1

HYDRATING. REFRESHING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Pentiol GL, Cosphaderm® Hexiol

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
5.00
A Cosphaderm® Pentiol GL
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
A Cosphaderm® Hexiol
1,2-Hexanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
1.50
A RonaCare® Nicotinamide
Niacinamide
Merck KGaA
4.00
A D-Panthenol 75 %
PanthenolAqua
-
2.00
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Carbopol® Ultrez-21
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40

Manufacturing Process
Combine all ingredients of phase A and stir with a propeller stirrer at 1500 – 2000 rpm until everything is
completely dissolved. Then add phase B to phase A under stirring.
Adjust the pH to 6.0 ± 0.05 to thicken the formulation.

Specification
Appearance: Transparent, clear gel
pH: 6.0 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

ANTI-WRINKLE EYE CREAM ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.49.1.1

MOISTURISING. NURTURING. ANTI-WRINKLE.

Preservation: Cosphagard® Pol

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Cosphagard® Pol
AquaAqua, Sodium Levulinate, Potassium SorbatePotassium Sorbate
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
B Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
B Sesame Oil
Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
4.00
B Evening Primrose Oil
Oenothera Biennis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
B Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
B Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
B Wheat Germ Oil
Triticum Vulgare Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B Imwitor 960 K
Glyceryl Stearate SE
IOI Oleo GmbH
3.00
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Lanette® O
Cetearyl Alcohol
BASF SE
0.50
B Imwitor® 372P
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
IOI Oleo GmbH
1.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A under stirring until Cosphaderm® X 34 is completely dissolved.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients of phase B. Heat both phases separately to 70 °C and add phase B
to phase A under stirring.
After stirring for 5 minutes homogenise the formulation and adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: White, shiny emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

URBAN ANTI-POLLUTION SKIN ELIXIR

100.18.2.1

ANTI-POLLUTION. HIGH SPREADABILITY. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
34.30
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
10.00
A Cosphaderm® X soft
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Cosphaderm® Leo
Dipropylene GlycolEthylhexylglycerinCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
2.70
B Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
4.00
B Babassu Oil
Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
4.00
B Apricot Kernel Oil
Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
4.00
B Sesame Oil
Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
B Evening Primrose Oil
Oenothera Biennis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
B Rosehip Seed Oil
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
B Grape Seed Oil
Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Cosphaderm® E-1000 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Ecorol® 16/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
1.00
C Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
C Demin. Water
Aqua
-
30.00

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Prepare phase A and stir at 2000 rpm until complete dissolution.
Phase B: Prepare phase B and heat to 50 °C until everything is melted. Let the mixture cool down to
room temperature.
Phase C: Prepare phase C and stir for 10 min at 800 rpm.
Add phase C to phase B and stir at 2000 rpm to emulsify both phases.
Add phase A to phase B+C and homogenise for 3 minutes.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: White, shiny emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

WAKE UP SERUM

100.53.1.1

BOOSTING. VITALISING. MOISTURISING.

Preservation: Cosphagard® Cap

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
5.00
A Cosphagard® Cap
PhenoxyethanolCaprylyl Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
A Caffeine Powder
Caffeine
-
1.50
A Ronacare® Allantoin
Allantoin
Merck KGaA
0.50
B Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate high
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Add all ingredients of phase A into a beaker and stir until caffeine and allantoin are completely
dissolved.
Phase B: Add phase B to phase A while stirring vigorous. Stir until no clumps are left.
Adjust pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Transparent, clear, slightly viscous liquid
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

BOOSTING SERUM

100.7.2.1

ANTI-AGING. MOISTURISING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
5.00
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate high
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Cosphaderm® Leo
Dipropylene GlycolEthyhexylglycerinCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
2.50

Manufacturing Process
This formulation can be prepared at room temperature.
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and stir until everything is completely dissolved.
Phase B: Add Cosphaderm® Leo to phase A.
Adjust pH to 5.5 ± 0.05 if necessary.

Specification
Appearance: Translucent serum
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

HYDRO JELLY MASK

100.21.3.1

INTENSIVELY HYDRATING. RELAXING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Hexiol, Cosphaderm® Pentiol GL, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
5.00
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Cosphaderm® KG
Amorphophallus Konjac Root Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
C Cosphaderm® Pentiol GL
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
5.00
C Cosphaderm® Hexiol
1,2-Hexanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
C Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
5.00
C Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
D Cosmetic Colour
-
q.s.

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Prepare phase A and stir until dispersed.
Phase B: Slowly add the water to phase A under stirring and stir until complete dissolution.
Phase C: Prepare phase C and stir for 10 minutes. Add phase C to phase A+B and adjust pH
to 5.5 – 6.0 ± 0.05.
Phase D: Add colour if wanted.
Heat the mixture to its boiling point and keep this temperature for 2 – 3 minutes.
Quickly pour the hot mixture into a casting mould and let it cool.

Specification
Appearance: Translucent or coloured, elastic gel
pH: 5.5 – 6.0 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

BOOSTING GLOW MIST

100.35.1.1

REFRESHING. SKIN BOOSTING. FREE OF LISTED PRESERVATIVES.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural, Cosphaderm® Hexiol

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Aloe Vera 0.05 %
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
-
76.10
A RonaCare® Niacinamide
Niacinamide
Merck KGaA
3.50
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A D-Panthenol 75 %
PanthenolAqua
-
1.00
A Cosphaderm® Hexiol
1,2-Hexanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
1.50
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
5.00
A Cosphaderm® PA ECONAT
Phytic AcidAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Olive Oil
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.50
B Argan Oil
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
B Avocado Oil
Persea Gratissima Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B Evening Primrose Oil
Oenothera Biennis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.50
B Rosehip Seed Oil
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
B Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.50
B Macadamia Nut Oil
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
0.50
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and stir until complete dissolution.
Adjust the pH value to 5.5 ± 0.05.
Phase B: Prepare phase B in a separate beaker.
Add phase B to phase A without stirring and pour mixture into spray flask.

Specification
Appearance: Two-phase system with oil phase on top of translucent water phase
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven

Special Care

FACE CREAM FOR MEN

600.56.2.1

BOOSTING. LIGHT SKIN FEEL. HYDRATING.

Preservation: Cosphagard® Elbe, Cosphaderm® GMCY

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
9.00
A Coconut Oil
Cocos Nucifera Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
A Shea Butter
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
A Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
1.50
A Sunflower Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
A Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
A Macadamia Oil
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.50
A Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Ecorol® 16/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
1.00
A Imwitor® 372P
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
IOI Oleo GmbH
3.00
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
B Glycerin
Glycerin
Cremer GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40
B Ronacare® Allantoin
Allantoin
Merck KGaA
0.20
B Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate high
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
C Aloe Vera Powder
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
-
0.20
C D-Panthenol 75 %
PanthenolAqua
-
0.50
C Cosphaderm® GMCY
Glyceryl Caprylate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40
C Cosphagard® Elbe
AquaAqua, Sodium Levulinate, Potassium SorbateSodium Benzoate
Cosphatec GmbH
2.50

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and heat to 80 °C.
Phase B: Combine all of the liquid ingredients and add the powders while stirring.
Then heat to 80 °C.
Afterwards combine phase A and B and homogenise the mixture.
Phase C: Add phase C to the formulation (<40 °C) and stir.
Homogenise a second time if needed.
Adjust pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: White, shiny emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)