FORMULATIONS

MODERN COSMETICS FOR AMBITIOUS FORMULATORS

We understand the requirements and issues of cosmetic formulators. That’s why we spend a lot of time with application technology in our in-house laboratory. Here we investigate the incorporation and effect of raw materials in order to offer our customers the best possible support and appropriate recommendations.

We have provided a selected set of formulations for you to download here – enjoy!

FaceCare

ANTI SPOT GEL ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.70.1.1

ANTI INFLAMMATORY. CLARIFYING. PORE SIZE REDUCING.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Zinc Lactate natural, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
88.20
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
5.00
A Cosphagard® SA natural
Salicylic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
B Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
2.50
B Cosphaderm® X soft
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.70
B Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate high
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
C Cosphaderm® Zinc Lactate natural
Zinc Lactate
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
C Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Water
Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Water
-
0.50

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A. Raise the pH to 11 to dissolve Cosphagard® SA natural. When everything is dissolved, lower the pH back to 4-5 again.
Phase B: Combine Glycerin, Cosphaderm® X 34 and Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate high and stir until the powder is wetted. Then add it to phase A.
Phase C: Add phase C under stirring.
Adjust the pH to 4.0 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Transparent, clear gel
pH: 4.0 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

ANTI-WRINKLE BASE

100.39.1.1

PORE FILLING. LONG LASTING. MINIMALISTIC FORMULATION.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Capo, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
6.00
A Natrosol® 250 HX
Hydroxyethylcellulose
-
1.00
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
4.00
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate high
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
88.00
C Cosphaderm® Capo
PropanediolCaprylyl Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
0.60
C Phenylpropanol
Phenylpropanol
-
0.20

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine phase A and add determinalised water to phase A under stirring.
Phase B: Add water.
Phase C: Add Cosphaderm® POP and water-soluble perfume to phase A+B.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: Translucent gel
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

BOOSTING SERUM ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.7.4.1

ANTI-AGING. FAST ABSORBING. HYDRATING.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural, Cosphaderm® Octiol natural, Cosphaderm® CHA

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
93.10
A Cosphaderm® CHA
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
5.00
B Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® Octiol natural
Caprylyl Glycol
0.30
B Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate high
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
B Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20

MANUFACTURING PROCESS
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and stir until everything is completely dissolved.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients of phase B separately and add to phase A under stirring.
Adjust pH to 5.5 ± 0.05 if necessary.

SPECIFICATION
Appearance: Transparent serum
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

VITAMIN C GLOW DROPS

100.84.1.1

ANTI-AGING. PORE-REFINING. HYDRATING.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Heptiol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
87.65
A Cosphaderm® Heptiol natural
1,2-Heptanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
A Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
2.00
A Inulin
Inulin
-
1.00
A Sodium PCA
Sodium PCA
-
0.50
A RonaCare® Nicotinamide
Niacinamide
Merck KGaA
5.00
B Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
-
2.00
B Sodium Gluconate
Sodium Gluconate
-
0.15
C Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
C Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate high
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
C Cosphaderm® X soft
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20

MANUFACTURING PROCESS
This formulation can be prepared at room temperature.
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and stir until everything is completely dissolved.
Phase B: Add phase B to phase A.
Phase C: Add Phase C and stir until everything is completely dissolved.
Adjust pH to 6.5 ± 0.05 if necessary.

SPECIFICATION
Appearance: Transparent serum
pH: 6.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

ANTI-POLLUTION SERUM ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.92.1.1

ANTI-AGING. ANTIOXIDANT. MOISTURISING.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Dicapo natural, Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98, Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
77.30
A Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural
Propanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
A Cosphaderm® X soft
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.80
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate high
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Sodium PCA
Sodium PCA
-
0.50
A Sodium Citrate
Sodium Citrate
-
0.50
A Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.50
B Cosphaderm® GS Connect
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
B Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
4.00
B MCT Oil Typ V Ph. Eur.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Gustav Heess GmbH
5.00
B Camellia Seed Oil
Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil
-
2.00
C Cosphaderm® Dicapo natural
Caprylyl GlycolPropanediolGlyceryl Caprylate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.70
C Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
D Cosphaderm® Tocopharin
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed OilCarnosic Acid
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30

MANUFACTURING PROCESS
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and stir until everything is completely dissolved.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients of phase B.
Heat both phases separately to 70-75 °C and add phase B to A while stirring.
Then homogenise the formulation.
Phase C: Dissolve Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98 in Cosphaderm® Dicapo natural.
Add phase C and phase D to phase A+B after cooling to 40 °C while stirring.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

SPECIFICATION
Appearance: Light beige, shiny emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

ULTRA HYDRATING SERUM ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.106.1.1

ANTI-AGING. REGENERATING. SMOOTHING.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® MultiMEG

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
83.10
A Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
5.00
A Cosphaderm® PA-12
Sodium Phytate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Cosphaderm® X soft
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate high
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Olivem® 1000
Cetearyl OlivateSorbitan Olivate
Hallstar
2.50
B MCT Oil Typ V Ph. Eur.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Gustav Heess GmbH
5.00
B Grape Seed Oil
Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
C Cosphaderm® MultiMEG
Glyceryl CaprylatePentylene GlycolMagnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
1.40

MANUFACTURING PROCESS
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and stir until everything is completely dissolved. Heat to 75 °C.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients and heat to 75 °C. Add then phase B to phase A under strong stirring and homogenise.
Phase C: Add phase C to the formulation and stir.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

SPECIFICATION
Appearance: White emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

CALMING HYDRO MASK ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.104.1.1

SOOTHING. MOISTURISING. ANTI-BLEMISH.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Hexiol, Cosphaderm® Zinc Lactate natural, Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
74.65
A Cosphaderm® Zinc Lactate natural
Zinc Lactate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
3.00
A Cosphaderm® Hexiol natural
1,2-Hexanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate high
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40
B Olivem® 1000
Cetearyl OlivateSorbitan Olivate
Hallstar
3.00
B Lanette® 16
Cetyl Alcohol
BASF SE
2.00
B Macadamia Oil
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
4.00
B MCT Oil Typ V Ph. Eur.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Gustav Heess GmbH
4.00
B Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
5.00
B Evening Primrose Oil
Oenothera Biennis Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
C Cosphaderm® Magnolia Extract 98
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.05

MANUFACTURING PROCESS
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and stir until everything is completely dissolved. Heat to 70-75 °C.
Phase B: Combine all ingredients of phase B and heat to 75°C. Phase C is added to the oil phase just before emulsion is formed.
Add phase B+C to the water phase while stirring. Homogenise at 40°C.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

SPECIFICATION
Appearance: White cream
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

JELLY EYE PATCHES

100.88.1.1

HYDRATING. REFRESHING. ANTI-AGEING.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® Heptiol natural, Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
87.60
A Cosphaderm® Pentiol natural
Pentylene Glycol
Cosphatec GmbH
4.00
A Cosphaderm® Heptiol natural
1,2-Heptanediol
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
A Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
3.00
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate high
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
A Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Cosphaderm® KG
Amorphophallus Konjac Root Extract
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A RonaCare® Nicotinamide
Niacinamide
Merck KGaA
3.00
B Cosmetic Colour
-
q.s.

MANUFACTURING PROCESS
Phase A: Prepare phase A and stir until dispersed. Adjust the pH to 6.5 ± 0.05.
Phase B: Add colour if wanted.
Heat the mixture to 80-90°C and keep this temperature for 2 – 3 minutes.
Quickly pour the hot mixture into a casting mould and let it cool.

SPECIFICATION
Appearance: Translucent or coloured, elastic gel
pH: 6.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

HYDRO BOOST LIP BALM ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100.77.1.1

HYDRATING. NOURISHING. PROTECTING.

Oil protection: Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Ecorol® 16/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
15.35
A Castor Oil
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
15.00
A Octyldodecanol
Octyldodecanol
-
20.00
A Kahlwax 2811
Oryza Sativa Bran Cera
Kahl GmbH & Co. KG
2.00
A Beeswax
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
29.00
A Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate high
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.15
A Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50
A Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
10.00
A Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
8.00

MANUFACTURING PROCESS
Combine all ingredients of phase A, heating to 80-85 °C. When everything has melted, take off heat and fill into packaging.

SPECIFICATION
Appearance: Solid, yellowish balm
Stability: Microbiological stability proven (Water activity value less than 0.75)

MenCare

FACE CREAM FOR MEN

600.56.2.1

BOOSTING. LIGHT SKIN FEEL. HYDRATING.

Preservation: Cosphagard® Elbe, Cosphaderm® GMCY

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
9.00
A Coconut Oil
Cocos Nucifera Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
A Shea Butter
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
A Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
1.50
A Sunflower Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
A Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
A Macadamia Oil
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
1.50
A Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
A Ecorol® 16/98 P
Cetyl Alcohol
Ecogreen Oleochemicals
1.00
A Cosphaderm® GS Connect
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Cosphatec GmbH
3.00
B Demin. Water
Aqua
-
ad 100
B Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
1.00
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40
B Ronacare® Allantoin
Allantoin
Merck KGaA
0.20
B Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate low
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
B Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate high
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
C Aloe Vera Powder
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
-
0.20
C D-Panthenol 75 %
PanthenolAqua
-
0.50
C Cosphaderm® GMCY
Glyceryl Caprylate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.40
C Cosphagard® Elbe
AquaSodium LevulinateSodium Benzoate
Cosphatec GmbH
2.50

Manufacturing Process
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and heat to 80 °C.
Phase B: Combine all of the liquid ingredients and add the powders while stirring.
Then heat to 80 °C.
Afterwards combine phase A and B and homogenise the mixture.
Phase C: Add phase C to the formulation (<40 °C) and stir.
Homogenise a second time if needed.
Adjust pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

Specification
Appearance: White, shiny emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)

Babycare

CALMING BABY LOTION ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS

500.43.2.1

NATURALLY MILD. SOOTHING. MOISTURISING.

Alternative preservation: Cosphaderm® LA-T, Cosphaderm® GMCY

PHASE Ingredient Cosmos INCI SUPPLIER %
A Demin. Water
Aqua
-
80.70
A Glycerin
Glycerin
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co. KG
3.00
A Cinnamic Acid
Cinnamic Acid
-
0.20
A Cosphaderm® LA-T
Levulinic AcidGlycerinSodium LevulinateAqua
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
B Cosphaderm® X 34
Xanthan Gum
Cosphatec GmbH
0.30
B Cosphaderm® Sodium Hyaluronate high
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.20
C Cosphaderm® SF-75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cosphatec GmbH
2.00
C Shea Butter refined
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Gustav Heess GmbH
3.00
C Argan Oil
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.00
C PolyAquol®-2W
Polyglyceryl-2-StearateGlyceryl StearateStearyl Alcohol
Innovacos
2.50
C Lanette® 16
Cetyl Alcohol
BASF SE
1.00
C Beeswax white
Cera alba
Gustav Heess GmbH
2.50
C Cosphaderm® Feel
Triheptanoin
Cosphatec GmbH
1.00
C Cosphaderm® T-70 NON GMO ECO
TocopherolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cosphatec GmbH
0.10
C Cosphaderm® GMCY
Glyceryl Caprylate
Cosphatec GmbH
0.50

MANUFACTURING PROCESS
Phase A: Combine all ingredients of phase A and raise the pH to 11 under stirring to dissolve cinnamic acid. When everything is dissolved, lower the pH back to 6 again.
Add phase B to A and stir until everything is dissolved. Heat phase A/B to 75 °C.
Phase C: Combine all ingredients and heat to 80 °C. Add then phase C to phase A/B under strong stirring and homogenise.
Adjust the pH to 5.5 ± 0.05.

SPECIFICATION
Appearance: White emulsion
pH: 5.5 ± 0.05
Stability: Microbiological stability proven, no separation after centrifugation (4000 rpm, 30 min)