COSPHADERM® LECITHINS
Natural emulsifiers
THE ADVANTAGES AT A GLANCE
100% natural and vegan
Emulsifying
Regenerating, protects the skin barrier
Create a silky skin feel
Flexible to use
COSPHADERM® LECITHINS
Lecithins are valuable raw materials in the cosmetics industry. With their multifunctional properties, they not only contribute to the stability of emulsions, but also improve the sensory qualities of formulations, optimise the moisturisation of the skin and support modern formulation approaches such as clean beauty and natural cosmetics.
Our high-quality lecithin products are precisely tailored to the requirements of modern cosmetic formulations. They offer reliable performance and can be flexibly integrated into sophisticated formulations. Whether for innovative skin care, colour cosmetics or hair care – lecithins enable the development of sustainable yet high-performance products.
What are lecithins?
Lecithins consist largely of phospholipids. Phospholipids occur naturally in biological membranes. They consist of a glycerol backbone to which three residues are attached. They differ firstly in their phosphate-bound organic residues (e.g. -choline, -ethanolamine, -inositol) and also in their two different fatty acids bound to glycerol. These can be saturated or unsaturated. In the case of lysolecithins, a fatty acid is split off enzymatically. In the case of hydrogenation, unsaturated fatty acids become saturated fatty acids.
PHOSPHOPIPIDS – STRUCTURE
LECITHIN TYPES AND MODIFICATION
Why lecithins in cosmetics?
Lecithins are far more than just an additive – they are raw materials with added value. In addition to stabilising cosmetic products, they actively contribute to the care and improvement of skin health. They also fit seamlessly into sustainable concepts and thus support the growing demand for environmentally conscious solutions. The various areas of application and benefits are broken down below.
1. Co-emulsifiers for stable formulations
Thanks to their amphiphilic structure, phospholipids are ideal natural emulsifiers and co-emulsifiers. Lecithins combine well with other emulsifiers and improve not only the stability of cosmetic products but also the texture of formulations. They give cosmetic products a pleasant, non-sticky texture and ensure a rich, silky skin feel. Whether oil-in-water (O/W) or water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions, our various lecithins enable reliable stabilisation. Another major advantage is that lecithins can be used in cold formulations. They also support the dissolution of challenging ingredients such as ascorbyl palmitate.
LECITHINS AS (CO-)EMULSIFIERS
2. Moisturiser and skin and hair care through natural phospholipids
Lecithins contain a high concentration of natural phospholipids, which are similar in structure to skin lipids. These create bilamellar structures in the skin, imitating cellular membranes, and thus improve the function of the skin barrier, which contributes to long-term moisture retention. In hair care, lecithins contribute to better combability of hair when used in conditioners and have an antistatic effect. This is why lecithins are often used as a moisturising active in skin and hair care.
3.Sustainability and compatibility with organic cosmetics
In an industry that is increasingly focussing on sustainability and naturalness, lecithin is an ideal raw material.
*Natural origin:
Our lecithins are derived from renewable, plant-based sources such as soya or sunflower.
*Sustainability certifications:
The majority of our lecithins comply with COSMOS, NATRUE and Non-GMO standards and can be used in natural cosmetics without any problems.
*Clean beauty trend:
It fulfils the requirements of modern ‘green’ product lines as it is biodegradable, skin-friendly and free from synthetic additives.
Our Cosphaderm® Lecithins overview
Our lecithin portfolio covers a wide range of applications that are specifically tailored to the requirements of modern cosmetics. From stabilising properties to specific skin care benefits – each lecithin offers a solution for specific challenges in cosmetic formulations.
Cosphaderm® E NGM & Cosphaderm® E NGM natural
(Lysolecithine)
Liquid lysolecithin is ideal as a co-emulsifier for light, skin-caring textures that do not require a viscosity build-up, such as body milk. Cosphaderm® E NGM natural is the ideal choice for natural cosmetic products that require COSMOS conformity.
Application hint:
Perfect for formulations with a low oil or high water content. With an HLB value of 10-13, it can be ideally incorporated into the warm water or oil phase. In cold processing, it can even be added after emulsion formation.
Dosage:
The recommended dosage is between 0.5 and 5.0 %, depending on the desired stability. As a co-emulsifier, 0.5-1.0 % is sufficient, while 2-5 % is used as the sole emulsifier. In bath products such as bath oils, the proportion can even be up to 10 %.
Technical advantage:
Due to its increased polarity as lysolecithin, it disperses particularly well in water and also promotes the skin penetration of active ingredients. In shower gels and hair care products with a pH value below 5, it also provides a moisturising and nourishing effect.
Cosphaderm® SF-75H & Cosphaderm® SB-75H / SB-75H NON GMO
(FFractionated hydrogenated lecithins)
Thanks to the powder form, the raw materials are particularly easy to handle. Cosphaderm® SF-75H is extracted from sunflower and complies with COSMOS and NATRUE standards, while Cosphaderm® SB-75H is based on soy. Cosphaderm® SB-75H NON GMO is derived from non-GMO soy and is therefore also COSMOS and NATRUE conform. The phosphatidylcholine content has been increased to at least 70 % through fractionation, which further improves its effectiveness.
Application hint:
It is incorporated into the water phase for processing. The HLB value is between 9 and 12.
Dosage:
The recommended dosage is between 1.0 – 3.0 %.
*As a co-emulsifier between 0.5-1-0 %.
*As sole emulsifier at 3.0 %.
Technical advantage:
The raw material has minimal influence on the appearance and odour of the formulation. Due to its hydrogenation, it is also less susceptible to oxidation, which improves the stability of emulsions and even enables the formation of liposomes.
Thanks to the structure of hydrogenated lecithins, a more compact and stable interface is created, which improves the stability of emulsions and enables the formation of liposomes.
FORMULATIONS WITH COSPHADERM® LECITHINS
Cosphatec offers various lecithins depending on customer requirements. Here you will find two trend formulations as examples. You can find further inspiration in our formulation overview.
